P1349 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 1b) blocked oil control valve filter
02-10-11, 11:12 AM
#31
FYI: The OCV Filter housing is made of Machined Aluminum with a S.S. mesh screen inserted....if screen isnt torn, clean and install.
Also, check out this thread, has a lot more info, part numbers etc:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ml#post6135263
Also, check out this thread, has a lot more info, part numbers etc:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ml#post6135263
02-10-11, 02:05 PM
#33
1349 Code description is: VVT System Bank 1
O2 Sensors have different codes...but hell, its a lexus, and if I fix the VVT valve and it still screws up, I may do the O2 sensors as well.
O2 Sensors have different codes...but hell, its a lexus, and if I fix the VVT valve and it still screws up, I may do the O2 sensors as well.
02-11-11, 08:15 AM
#34
Taking Apart and Cleaning the OCV Valve only helped temporarily, the problem resumed, and then I found the exact diagnostic procedures for checking the VVTi system...My Solenoid wasnt working once the engine got warm, so Ive replaced the OCV Valve itself, $121+tax, will get back to everyone if this has solved the problem for good.
So I decided to take the OCV valve off yesterday and inspect it. What I noticed is that when I pushed the plunger inside the valve down and let it spring back towards the solenoid it would stick sometimes, a little bit from being all the way back up.
The end of the Valve assembly has a snap ring in it and a spring that applies pressure to the plunger. So I took it apart. And I cleaned the entire assembly and solenoid over a clean towel. A Tiny piece of hard black plastic-like material came out, it was maybe twice the size of a grain of sand, but about 1/16th inch long and skinny.
I re-assembled the plunger into the housing and no more sticking, but the spring didnt seem to be applying enough tension to force the plunger all the way up...it was maybe 1/16" short. So I took it all apart stretched the spring ever so gently, and re-assembled.
Drove the car 30 miles last night with lots of starting and stopping engine, as well as 80+mph on freeway. Its running very nicely now.
I will know in the next few days if this fixed the problem because my car wasnt going 2 short trips without extremely rough idling to the point it would stall. It showed no such symptoms after cleaning the actual OCV Valve/solenoid assembly, unlike cleaning the OCV Filter which did nothing the day before. Ive been having this extreme rough idle and irradic pedal response for 2 months now every day...keeping fingers crossed.
So I decided to take the OCV valve off yesterday and inspect it. What I noticed is that when I pushed the plunger inside the valve down and let it spring back towards the solenoid it would stick sometimes, a little bit from being all the way back up.
The end of the Valve assembly has a snap ring in it and a spring that applies pressure to the plunger. So I took it apart. And I cleaned the entire assembly and solenoid over a clean towel. A Tiny piece of hard black plastic-like material came out, it was maybe twice the size of a grain of sand, but about 1/16th inch long and skinny.
I re-assembled the plunger into the housing and no more sticking, but the spring didnt seem to be applying enough tension to force the plunger all the way up...it was maybe 1/16" short. So I took it all apart stretched the spring ever so gently, and re-assembled.
Drove the car 30 miles last night with lots of starting and stopping engine, as well as 80+mph on freeway. Its running very nicely now.
I will know in the next few days if this fixed the problem because my car wasnt going 2 short trips without extremely rough idling to the point it would stall. It showed no such symptoms after cleaning the actual OCV Valve/solenoid assembly, unlike cleaning the OCV Filter which did nothing the day before. Ive been having this extreme rough idle and irradic pedal response for 2 months now every day...keeping fingers crossed.
Last edited by az-dave; 02-16-11 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Didnt work - Temporary Fix
02-14-11, 08:03 AM
#35
The OCV Valve was bad - tested it by applying 12V across terminals, if Engine Slows and almost (or does) stall, then OCV Valve IS working. Took valve out, tested it, and sure enough solenoid clocks but not enough force to move the plunger inside the valve, replaced valve.
No Bueno on taking the valve apart and cleaning. Just after I posted my above message, I drove home and it came back en force.
So...Im now left with replacing the Valve (Im not convinced the valve is the problem), if that doesnt work then replace the VVTi Pully/Cam, then Replacing the VVTi Cam Sensors, Then the ECU. NONE of that needed - it was the OCV Valve/Solenoid!!! :-)
Prior to doing the VVTi pully or ECU I may run some more Diagnostics to see if its possible an Ignition problem could cause the VVTi timing to malfunction. If this was an older car, I would say its misfiring on 2 or 3 cylinders, rather than the Cam/Valve timing...suz thats what it feels like...feels like the spark is missing at low RPM's from 2 or 3...But Codes are very specific to the VVTi system. Thanks Lexus!
And Im 99% sure thats just about how Lexus dealer would suggest the repair sequence since they see the same codes and those 2 codes simply mean the VVTi Timing parameters are out of spec, thus throwing the Code.
Will keep posted on progress if any. Car is sitting now, could sit for a while.
No Bueno on taking the valve apart and cleaning. Just after I posted my above message, I drove home and it came back en force.
So...Im now left with replacing the Valve (Im not convinced the valve is the problem), if that doesnt work then replace the VVTi Pully/Cam, then Replacing the VVTi Cam Sensors, Then the ECU. NONE of that needed - it was the OCV Valve/Solenoid!!! :-)
Prior to doing the VVTi pully or ECU I may run some more Diagnostics to see if its possible an Ignition problem could cause the VVTi timing to malfunction. If this was an older car, I would say its misfiring on 2 or 3 cylinders, rather than the Cam/Valve timing...suz thats what it feels like...feels like the spark is missing at low RPM's from 2 or 3...But Codes are very specific to the VVTi system. Thanks Lexus!
And Im 99% sure thats just about how Lexus dealer would suggest the repair sequence since they see the same codes and those 2 codes simply mean the VVTi Timing parameters are out of spec, thus throwing the Code.
Will keep posted on progress if any. Car is sitting now, could sit for a while.
Last edited by az-dave; 03-19-13 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Replaced Valve. No Code as of yet.
02-16-11, 10:13 AM
#36
Ok, As the Saga goes...
I did extensive research and found the Lexus Diagnostics Procedure for checking the VVTi System on the GS300. Its actually fairly straight forward and makes a lot of sense. Basically the ECU sends a Pulse-Modulated 12V signal to the Solenoid (OCV Valve), it CANNOT be tested with a hand held Digital Voltmeter. The only way to check the signal is with a Oscilliscope or Digital tester With Microsecond interval. 99% of the time the ECU is Not the problem. The Oil is pumped thru the OCV filter into the bottom of the OCV valve and then depending on the signal (advance / nominal / retard) the plunger inside the OCV Valve is continuously moved allowing different amount of oil pressure to be diverted into the advance or retard side of the VVTi Cam Pulley-Actuator. If the actuator is operating properly it will then advance or retard the actual Cam, which has a magnetic tab on it that then sends a signal to the Cam-Shaft Position Sensor (which almost never goes bad), and that signal tells the ECU the position of the Cam so the ECU can adjust the signal back to the OCV Valve.
The Procedure:
1) Check OCV Filter, Clean as Necessary, re-test drive vehicle prior to Step 2.
2) Check Operation of OCV Valve: (Engine must be fully warmed up)
a) PASS: Unplug OCV connector - idle should not change
b) Connect 12V DC across OCV terminals after step 2a:
i) PASS: Engine Stalls or almost Stalls when voltage manually applied to OCV Valve terminals, No Change to idle when OCV disconnected from plug - Go To Step 3
ii) NP(Bad): No Change to idle when Voltage Manually applied to OCV Valve, or large change in idle when OCV Valve disconnected from plug at idle- Replace OCV, Plunger/Solenoid not operating
3) Check Signal from ECU to OCV Valve Plug (may unconnect or tap into wires)
a) PASS: Pulse-Modulation Signal changes with Engine RPM Go to Step 4
b) NP: Pulse-Modulation does not change or no Pulse-Modulation Signal from ECU to OCV Valve plug - Go To Step 5
4) If Steps 2 & 3 Pass Replace VVTi Cam-Actuator:
a) Remove Timing Belt, remove VVTi Cam, Clean Cam Oil Journals, Replace Cam-Shaft Seal, Install new VVTi Cam
b) Test Drive, if replacing OCV Valve & VVTi Cam have no effect move to Step 5
5) Check Signal from Cam-Shaft Sensor (this obviously could be done as Step 2, but the general idea is that if there is a pulse-modulation signal coming from the ECU, then it must be deriving that signal from the Cam-Shaft Sensor)
a) PASS: Signal Sent changes with RPM - Go to Step 6
b) NP: Inconsistent or Non-Existent Signal: Replace Cam Shaft Sensor
6) Check ECU:
a) PASS: Signals from both Camshaft wires and OCV Valve consistent at ECU and at sensor & OCV Valve (in other words check the signals at the wires directly at the ECU AND tat the sensor and OCV Valve - there may be an intermittent break in the wires causing intermittent incontinuity of signal while driving) - Go to Step 7
b) NP: Replace Wire Harnesses between ECU and Sensor and ECU and OCV Valve - Re-Test Drive
7) Check Cam-Shaft and OCV Housing Oil Journals & Oil Presure
a) Disassemble Timing Belt, VVTi Cam Assembly, remove Intake Valve cover, remove all Camshaft Bearing Caps and inspect for excess wear, clean all internal oil passages.
b) Check Oil Pressure on Supply Line to OCV Valve (requires some special equipment to keep oil from spraying everywhere) - You can also do this by removing the OCV Valve putting a towel in its place and turning over the engine for a few cranks, oil should come out pretty fast, and will make a mess.
i) PASS: Oil Pressure supplied to OCV & Cam Journals free of blockages and Camshaft Bearings good - Go to Step 8
ii) NP: Replace all worn or inoperative parts, including Oil pump if Oil starvation is noted.
8) Replace ECU
Notice Replacing the ECU is Dead-Last...just after taking apart the entire upper end. Its pretty much a common-sense Logic process eliminating the most common/easiest to cure sources of the problem. My hunch is if Steps 1-8 dont work, the engine is "worn-out" and may have some sticking valves or other issues sending bad signals to the ECU which could take days upon days to trace and track...which is why in these instances dealers replace entire motors...the motor may cost less than the labor when all else fails.
If Steps 1-8 dont work, then your the lucky winner of an undiagnostical and unfixable problem...crack open a 12-pack and drink away.
I hope this helps future people with this problem.
I did extensive research and found the Lexus Diagnostics Procedure for checking the VVTi System on the GS300. Its actually fairly straight forward and makes a lot of sense. Basically the ECU sends a Pulse-Modulated 12V signal to the Solenoid (OCV Valve), it CANNOT be tested with a hand held Digital Voltmeter. The only way to check the signal is with a Oscilliscope or Digital tester With Microsecond interval. 99% of the time the ECU is Not the problem. The Oil is pumped thru the OCV filter into the bottom of the OCV valve and then depending on the signal (advance / nominal / retard) the plunger inside the OCV Valve is continuously moved allowing different amount of oil pressure to be diverted into the advance or retard side of the VVTi Cam Pulley-Actuator. If the actuator is operating properly it will then advance or retard the actual Cam, which has a magnetic tab on it that then sends a signal to the Cam-Shaft Position Sensor (which almost never goes bad), and that signal tells the ECU the position of the Cam so the ECU can adjust the signal back to the OCV Valve.
The Procedure:
1) Check OCV Filter, Clean as Necessary, re-test drive vehicle prior to Step 2.
2) Check Operation of OCV Valve: (Engine must be fully warmed up)
a) PASS: Unplug OCV connector - idle should not change
b) Connect 12V DC across OCV terminals after step 2a:
i) PASS: Engine Stalls or almost Stalls when voltage manually applied to OCV Valve terminals, No Change to idle when OCV disconnected from plug - Go To Step 3
ii) NP(Bad): No Change to idle when Voltage Manually applied to OCV Valve, or large change in idle when OCV Valve disconnected from plug at idle- Replace OCV, Plunger/Solenoid not operating
3) Check Signal from ECU to OCV Valve Plug (may unconnect or tap into wires)
a) PASS: Pulse-Modulation Signal changes with Engine RPM Go to Step 4
b) NP: Pulse-Modulation does not change or no Pulse-Modulation Signal from ECU to OCV Valve plug - Go To Step 5
4) If Steps 2 & 3 Pass Replace VVTi Cam-Actuator:
a) Remove Timing Belt, remove VVTi Cam, Clean Cam Oil Journals, Replace Cam-Shaft Seal, Install new VVTi Cam
b) Test Drive, if replacing OCV Valve & VVTi Cam have no effect move to Step 5
5) Check Signal from Cam-Shaft Sensor (this obviously could be done as Step 2, but the general idea is that if there is a pulse-modulation signal coming from the ECU, then it must be deriving that signal from the Cam-Shaft Sensor)
a) PASS: Signal Sent changes with RPM - Go to Step 6
b) NP: Inconsistent or Non-Existent Signal: Replace Cam Shaft Sensor
6) Check ECU:
a) PASS: Signals from both Camshaft wires and OCV Valve consistent at ECU and at sensor & OCV Valve (in other words check the signals at the wires directly at the ECU AND tat the sensor and OCV Valve - there may be an intermittent break in the wires causing intermittent incontinuity of signal while driving) - Go to Step 7
b) NP: Replace Wire Harnesses between ECU and Sensor and ECU and OCV Valve - Re-Test Drive
7) Check Cam-Shaft and OCV Housing Oil Journals & Oil Presure
a) Disassemble Timing Belt, VVTi Cam Assembly, remove Intake Valve cover, remove all Camshaft Bearing Caps and inspect for excess wear, clean all internal oil passages.
b) Check Oil Pressure on Supply Line to OCV Valve (requires some special equipment to keep oil from spraying everywhere) - You can also do this by removing the OCV Valve putting a towel in its place and turning over the engine for a few cranks, oil should come out pretty fast, and will make a mess.
i) PASS: Oil Pressure supplied to OCV & Cam Journals free of blockages and Camshaft Bearings good - Go to Step 8
ii) NP: Replace all worn or inoperative parts, including Oil pump if Oil starvation is noted.
8) Replace ECU
Notice Replacing the ECU is Dead-Last...just after taking apart the entire upper end. Its pretty much a common-sense Logic process eliminating the most common/easiest to cure sources of the problem. My hunch is if Steps 1-8 dont work, the engine is "worn-out" and may have some sticking valves or other issues sending bad signals to the ECU which could take days upon days to trace and track...which is why in these instances dealers replace entire motors...the motor may cost less than the labor when all else fails.
If Steps 1-8 dont work, then your the lucky winner of an undiagnostical and unfixable problem...crack open a 12-pack and drink away.
I hope this helps future people with this problem.
02-17-11, 11:22 AM
#37
Now Random Misfire NO CODES - WTF!
So I replaced the OCV Valve after testing it and verifying it was bad. Car ran great until Tuesday, when a rough idle came back. No codes.
So, I decide to check the wires, at night they were glowing and a small arc, so I decided to replace the wires with new Lexus ones, and while at it I replaced the Plugs too.
Drove the car 50-60 miles Tuesday and Yesterday drove like perfect...then all of the sudden, it starts hesitating, and a very frequent random misfire is now happening. No Arcing of the wires is observed, no Codes, No CEL. At idle it will drop to 300rpm, and go up and down. Under light acceleration you can definitely feel the tugging caused by the misfire, and full throttle and 80mph it runs fine but you can feel the slight chugging caused by the misfire.
Im seriously now at my wits end...I fix one problem only to have a completely different problem pop up out of nowhere for no apparent reason.
Im now suspecting a coil pack going bad or possible very sticky valves.
Maybe I will just drive the F-in thing until whatever the heck the problem is makes itself unmistakingly known...then I can post pics of a mauled engine?
Hell...Its got 250K miles on it...what do I expect....this is more of a puzzle to me now than fixing the car, since its a secondary car for me...just sad to see a GS300 sit there sleeping.
So, I decide to check the wires, at night they were glowing and a small arc, so I decided to replace the wires with new Lexus ones, and while at it I replaced the Plugs too.
Drove the car 50-60 miles Tuesday and Yesterday drove like perfect...then all of the sudden, it starts hesitating, and a very frequent random misfire is now happening. No Arcing of the wires is observed, no Codes, No CEL. At idle it will drop to 300rpm, and go up and down. Under light acceleration you can definitely feel the tugging caused by the misfire, and full throttle and 80mph it runs fine but you can feel the slight chugging caused by the misfire.
Im seriously now at my wits end...I fix one problem only to have a completely different problem pop up out of nowhere for no apparent reason.
Im now suspecting a coil pack going bad or possible very sticky valves.
Maybe I will just drive the F-in thing until whatever the heck the problem is makes itself unmistakingly known...then I can post pics of a mauled engine?
Hell...Its got 250K miles on it...what do I expect....this is more of a puzzle to me now than fixing the car, since its a secondary car for me...just sad to see a GS300 sit there sleeping.
02-22-11, 12:57 PM
#39
A new twist. Im still not having the CEL light come on, and all scanners read no codes. So, Replacing the OCV Valve has fixed that problem.
I decided to pull the spark plugs and replace them. One of them had a bent ground electrode on it. I assumed I must have bent it when I installed it 6 months ago, so I bought a new one, and replaced it. About 30 miles later I hear a knocking sound, like a knocking push rod...but 2JZ's dont have push rods. The sound got kinda loud for 30 seconds, then stopped. Rip the TB off, and inspect the spark plug...same cylinder, and the new ground electrode is bent.
Something inside that cylinder is hitting my spark plug. I can shine a light in there and see about 50% of the piston top, which isnt broken...but it does have oil on it...telling me a valve is leaking, or maybe broken. How? Dont know...it could be a piece of metal that broke off of the head casting and rattling inside the cylinder, being bangs my the piston. The wierd thing is, the sound stopped 100%, and now its just the miss.
I think its time to take the valve covers off and see if one of the valves is obviously sticking...if I cant tell from above, I will need to pull the head off.
I decided to pull the spark plugs and replace them. One of them had a bent ground electrode on it. I assumed I must have bent it when I installed it 6 months ago, so I bought a new one, and replaced it. About 30 miles later I hear a knocking sound, like a knocking push rod...but 2JZ's dont have push rods. The sound got kinda loud for 30 seconds, then stopped. Rip the TB off, and inspect the spark plug...same cylinder, and the new ground electrode is bent.
Something inside that cylinder is hitting my spark plug. I can shine a light in there and see about 50% of the piston top, which isnt broken...but it does have oil on it...telling me a valve is leaking, or maybe broken. How? Dont know...it could be a piece of metal that broke off of the head casting and rattling inside the cylinder, being bangs my the piston. The wierd thing is, the sound stopped 100%, and now its just the miss.
I think its time to take the valve covers off and see if one of the valves is obviously sticking...if I cant tell from above, I will need to pull the head off.
02-22-11, 03:53 PM
#41
You have an interference problem my friend. wierd this isnt presenting like a spun rod bearing or what not. Are you useing the right plugs (just making sure) and does the plug have the seal ring at the base of it. It seems your piston is hitting the plug meaning 1 you have a bad rod bearing giving your piston that extra little bit of possible stroke (this is not likely as you would here a rod knock. Or your plug is seating to deap into the head itself some how. I would try to get at best and this is not recommended another sealer washer and put it on that particular plug to pull it further out of the cylinder head. Then try again. The ground electrode is just bent right its not smashed or busted off correct? If so then some how you have about a 1-2mm clearance problem and this is very strange but backing out the spark plug might just fix this temporarily. GL
02-23-11, 12:09 PM
#42
Ive taken apart the intake chamber and exhaust and intake valve covers. All the Cam Lobes and valve lifters are in perfect condition, you cant tell there are any miles on them. There is no Oil Sludge on anything, in fact its so clean in both sides when I touch anything with my finger it only has clean oil film, Its rather amazing, and a testament to Valvoline Full Synthetic.
I did compression tests on all 6 Cylinders. They all ranged from 185psi to 220 psi, I tested each cylinder 3 times, and the readings would vary on all 6 cylinders by that range. In other words Cyl 5 would read 210 one time and 185 another and 200 another, same for all other cylinders.
This is leading me to believe the valves are seating, and the rings are good. So...How is it that a Spark plug electrode gets bent twice? The Spark Plugs are the same Brand and Plug # Ive used for 9 years, Ive never seen any with bend electrode until last week. Now 2 of them?
Maybe Im dealing with a bad fuel injector? Maybe the knocking sound was really bad pre-detonation? But it really sounded mechanical, not like fuel knocking.
Im going to re-assemble everything, test drive it and let everyone know the results.
I found one vacuum hose with a small crack, I believe it goes to the Charcoal Canister, perhaps that is causing the miss...hard to believe.
I did compression tests on all 6 Cylinders. They all ranged from 185psi to 220 psi, I tested each cylinder 3 times, and the readings would vary on all 6 cylinders by that range. In other words Cyl 5 would read 210 one time and 185 another and 200 another, same for all other cylinders.
This is leading me to believe the valves are seating, and the rings are good. So...How is it that a Spark plug electrode gets bent twice? The Spark Plugs are the same Brand and Plug # Ive used for 9 years, Ive never seen any with bend electrode until last week. Now 2 of them?
Maybe Im dealing with a bad fuel injector? Maybe the knocking sound was really bad pre-detonation? But it really sounded mechanical, not like fuel knocking.
Im going to re-assemble everything, test drive it and let everyone know the results.
I found one vacuum hose with a small crack, I believe it goes to the Charcoal Canister, perhaps that is causing the miss...hard to believe.
02-23-11, 12:22 PM
#43
What your saying is exactly what the symptoms indicate...sounds like an Interference problem. This is extremely strange because Im using the same Plugs # as I have since the car had 30K miles on it. NGK BKR6EP-11. It has 2 ground electrodes on each side of the center Platinum Hot electrode, they are flush with the top of the platinum tip, unlike most spark plugs where the ground electrode covers the end of the spark electrode.
Ive considered a bad rod bearing, however the amount of play required to send a piston traveling that much farther to hit a spark plug tip would cause extreme rod knock continuously, and horsepower would be severely reduced.
Im now thinking there is a possibility, even after doing the compression tests, that something, somehow broke off in the intake system, traveled into one of the cylinders and potentially damaged a valve seat, rattled inside the cylinder, causing the spark plug damage, and is now gone. I used a magnetic pick up tool in all 6 cylinders and got nothing out of any of them.
Maybe the Valve lifters are fine on top, but a valve guide has broken?
Its the most perplexing problem I have encountered in a long time. I started a new thread here to track it here:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post6170276
...so far I have received not a single reply, and Im pretty sure thats because this has never happened on a 2JZ-GE before. Lucky me. AT least I know how to do it all myself, or this would be a throw-away car right now.
Ive considered a bad rod bearing, however the amount of play required to send a piston traveling that much farther to hit a spark plug tip would cause extreme rod knock continuously, and horsepower would be severely reduced.
Im now thinking there is a possibility, even after doing the compression tests, that something, somehow broke off in the intake system, traveled into one of the cylinders and potentially damaged a valve seat, rattled inside the cylinder, causing the spark plug damage, and is now gone. I used a magnetic pick up tool in all 6 cylinders and got nothing out of any of them.
Maybe the Valve lifters are fine on top, but a valve guide has broken?
Its the most perplexing problem I have encountered in a long time. I started a new thread here to track it here:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post6170276
...so far I have received not a single reply, and Im pretty sure thats because this has never happened on a 2JZ-GE before. Lucky me. AT least I know how to do it all myself, or this would be a throw-away car right now.
You have an interference problem my friend. wierd this isnt presenting like a spun rod bearing or what not. Are you useing the right plugs (just making sure) and does the plug have the seal ring at the base of it. It seems your piston is hitting the plug meaning 1 you have a bad rod bearing giving your piston that extra little bit of possible stroke (this is not likely as you would here a rod knock. Or your plug is seating to deap into the head itself some how. I would try to get at best and this is not recommended another sealer washer and put it on that particular plug to pull it further out of the cylinder head. Then try again. The ground electrode is just bent right its not smashed or busted off correct? If so then some how you have about a 1-2mm clearance problem and this is very strange but backing out the spark plug might just fix this temporarily. GL
02-25-11, 09:52 AM
#44
Update: Cause of Misfire has been located and under repair...something Im willing to bet may have never happened before:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post6176002
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post6176002
02-26-11, 08:23 AM
#45
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Thought I'd pass on my experience with the Oil Control Valve.
I have a 2002 IS300 with 154,000 mi. The symptom is exactly as many other describe: after the car warms up, the idle becomes very rough, the car coughs on itself, the Engine light comes on as well as the Trac Light and VSC light kicks on. These are red herrings and a result of the code P1349 VVT.
I tried cleaning the filter but this did not fix the problem. Next, I pulled out the OCV and took a small screwdriver and pushed the solenoid back and forth to make sure it was not sticking, replaced it, problem fixed!
I intend to replace the OCV anyway since it's just $127 from the Lexus dealer and takes just 15 mins to replace.
Others elsewhere in the forum have asked where this part is in the car. On the IS300 (2002) I removed the engine cover (four 12mm nuts) and then removed the four hex screws from the VVT valve cover. Once this plastic valve cover is removed, you'll see the OCV which is identified as having a plug with two wires going into it. It has a large bolt that requires a 7/8 inch wrench to remove to clean the filter. But to replace the valve, unscrew the 12mm bolt at the top and then use a large flat-blade screwdriver to gently spread the distance between the housing and the valve. There's an O-ring that causes the valve to not just slip out--you have to sort of tug it out against the friction of the O-ring. Once out, clean, check for stickiness, and better yet--replace with a new one. --Dan
I have a 2002 IS300 with 154,000 mi. The symptom is exactly as many other describe: after the car warms up, the idle becomes very rough, the car coughs on itself, the Engine light comes on as well as the Trac Light and VSC light kicks on. These are red herrings and a result of the code P1349 VVT.
I tried cleaning the filter but this did not fix the problem. Next, I pulled out the OCV and took a small screwdriver and pushed the solenoid back and forth to make sure it was not sticking, replaced it, problem fixed!
I intend to replace the OCV anyway since it's just $127 from the Lexus dealer and takes just 15 mins to replace.
Others elsewhere in the forum have asked where this part is in the car. On the IS300 (2002) I removed the engine cover (four 12mm nuts) and then removed the four hex screws from the VVT valve cover. Once this plastic valve cover is removed, you'll see the OCV which is identified as having a plug with two wires going into it. It has a large bolt that requires a 7/8 inch wrench to remove to clean the filter. But to replace the valve, unscrew the 12mm bolt at the top and then use a large flat-blade screwdriver to gently spread the distance between the housing and the valve. There's an O-ring that causes the valve to not just slip out--you have to sort of tug it out against the friction of the O-ring. Once out, clean, check for stickiness, and better yet--replace with a new one. --Dan
Last edited by royerd; 02-26-11 at 08:54 AM.
