P1349 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 1b) blocked oil control valve filter
09-01-15, 04:22 PM
#242
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I have a 2001 LS430. Recently bought it at auction. I do not know the service history on it. I plan to do the timing belt on it but want to sort out this P1349 code first. So far, it is the only issue I seem to have with the car. Problem is, I have to get it to pass inspection before I can get tags for it.
I have already replaced the OCV solenoid and the code comes right back. I have tried resetting the ECU a couple of times and it will return the first time I go to drive the car.
Since it seems that oil changes were not a high priority for the previous owner, I am thinking the filters may be an issue. I hope so because replacing the OCV controller doesn't seem like a cost I want to consider. I think I am going to try running some seafoam through the engine first and then changing the oil with a quality synthetic and see if that helps at all.
The car seems to run fine. I just need these pesky lights to go away so I can get tags on the damn thing. With only 184k miles on it, I am hoping for a few good years out of this car. I'm impressed so far.
I have already replaced the OCV solenoid and the code comes right back. I have tried resetting the ECU a couple of times and it will return the first time I go to drive the car.
Since it seems that oil changes were not a high priority for the previous owner, I am thinking the filters may be an issue. I hope so because replacing the OCV controller doesn't seem like a cost I want to consider. I think I am going to try running some seafoam through the engine first and then changing the oil with a quality synthetic and see if that helps at all.
The car seems to run fine. I just need these pesky lights to go away so I can get tags on the damn thing. With only 184k miles on it, I am hoping for a few good years out of this car. I'm impressed so far.
12-18-15, 10:45 AM
#244
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Great deal of information relating to vvt GS430
This helped a great deal for me with how well you published the symptoms and DIY fix. I had bank one replaced this year in March and now I'm getting the P1354 code for bank 2 passenger side. Looking at how simplistic of a fix this is for a DIY as opposed to the local indy shop who raked me over the coals to replace bank 1, i can't thank you enough for taking the time to do this for the community. While I'm at it, thanks to everyone in the community for sharing to. 
well the last few days have been a debacle and a PITA....i took both these out and cleaned them since i looked at alldata and i couldnt find out what the B on the end of the code meant (i thought it was signifying bank 2 but according to the alldata codes P1346 and P1349 WERE BANK ONE (so does anyone know what the B on the end signifies?)
anyways i took some pics while i did all this
it all started out with this
i then removed the drivers side one (bank one) for a cleaning, i now understand what OP was saying when he said this
yes the actual filter is encased inside the valve or as the dealer calls it the VALVE ASSEMBLY, CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL. but this valve can still be cleaned, just not as functionally as the gs300's can be
BTW V-8 GUYS yes gs400 and gs430 use the same part #'s
part # for drivers side 153400F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)
part # for passenger side 153300F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)
in this picture below i break it down just for you visual guys or DIY guys
remove the valve cover (2 10mm bolts)
DRIVERS SIDE
the green arrow is the 10mm bolt that holds the OCV valve into the cam cover area
the blue arrow is the plug that the OCV plugs into (BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN UNPLUGGING THIS AS ITS ONLY 2 WIRES AND THEY CAN/WILL RIP LIKE THE GUY IN THE V8 VIDEO AND MYSELF'S DID)
the red arrow is where the OCV or valve assembly fits in....nothing else needs to be removed just kind of jiggle it out. reassembly is the same, it ONLY goes in one way
this is the OEM drivers side OCV removed and physically it doesnt look bad, no sludging or anything on it. i run full synthetic oil and i change it every 8k, i also do oil analysis which all show it to be fine. regardless i cleaned them with some aerosol brake cleaner which still didnt get much off of them
now the passenger side i had some more issues with when i went to unplug it, the wires pulled out of it....i have a DIY on how to fix this correctly just a little l8r down.
the green arrow is the 10mm bolt that holds the OCV valve into the cam cover area
the blue arrow is the plug that the OCV plugs into (AGAIN BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN UNPLUGGING SO IT DOESNT RIP)
the red arrow is where the OCV or valve assembly fits in....again nothing else needs to be removed just kind of jiggle it out. reassembly is the same, it ONLY goes in one way
here is the passenger side removed with the new plug.i ripped the wires out when removing this plug and i had started to unpin the old one to new pin them back together when i realized in their junk room they had a few toyota harness on the wall so i clipped off a plug and ended up resoldering the wires back
i cleaned BOTH mine, repaired the ripped wire and reinstalled them, borrowed my mechanics SPX scanner i really like (they have several different ones but this is my fav to use)
and cleared the codes. started the car up, ran fine, no CEL, no vibration at low idle and no shuddering either. i reved it a handful of times, took it around the block and then brought it back and let it sit running for the next 10 mins or so while i cleaned up my mess.....drove the car into the bay and lifted it up to install my TRD lower brace. Got that installed, left the work and headed to my night job to pick up something which is about 10-15 miles away. So car has now been on for about 30 minutes and driven about 10-15 miles without any issues. right as im pulling into the parking lot of work i got not just a CEL but a flashing CEL (which means i have a severe misfire going on) i pulled into the parking lot and hooked the scanner back up (i borrowed it from him) all i got was this one lone code P1349B.i reset the code and when i started it back up it didnt blink just stayed solid
so cleaning DIDNT fix mine but i have some used ones from a GS400 coming in today and i will try and see if this fixes them., if not i will dive further into looking into this.......i did notice when the car has sat for awhile and is cold it has NO issues even with the CEL on but when it gets warmed up and has been driven for a minute thats when it will develop the low end ( at a stop light) shake if i come to a stop sign or a stop light and i put it in neutral it seems to behave better but i have really been nursing this car waiting on my parts
i will update when i get everything installed
see all i use is mobil one full synthetic and i been experimenting with these purolater oil filters for the last year or so BUT my oil analysis have been good so far so i dunno what caused this. i just changed oil about 800 miles ago and since i only send every other one of for analysis i didnt send this one which now i wish i had
yeah the alldata was referring to the VVTi sensor for removing the timing belt btw the V8's require removing ONLY the engine cover nothing else to access these
IF YOU RIP YOUR PLUG (V-8 GUYS) THIS INFO IS FOR YOU
THE ATTACHMENT BELOW THIS POST IS FOR THE VISUAL GS430 GUYS AND A WRITE UP IS ALSO BELOW FOR THE OTHER GUYS
there is a attachment on here which shows you the postive/negative side of the plug and the actual plug itself (2nd page of the attachment) but let me break it down even easier for those of you who need a little extra help
were gonna start with the drivers side plug which is gonna be plug C-3. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-3 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the BLUE/YELLOW wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-3 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the GREEN/WHITE wire from the car
now the passenger side (the one i ripped) which is gonna be plug C-4. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-4 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the BLUE/WHITE wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-4 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the BLUE/BLACK wire from the car
IF YOU RIP YOUR PLUG (GS400 GUYS) NO ATTACHMENT INCLUDED BUT HERE IS A SIMPLE WRITE UP BELOW OF HOW TO CORRECTLY WIRE IT BACK
the drivers side plug is gonna be plug C-3. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-3 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the WHITE/GREEN wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-3 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the YELLOW/ORANGE (OR RED)wire from the car CANT TELL COLOR WITHOUT THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS ITS FADED
the passenger side is gonna be plug C-4. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-4 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the WHITE/RED (OR PINK) wire from the car CANT TELL COLOR WITHOUT THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS ITS FADED. The right tab # 2 of the C-4 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the BLUE/BLACK wire from the car
Drivers Side OCV Valve From A Gs400
Passenger Side OCV Valve From A Gs400
ONLY NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE IN THEM.OEM GS400 ON THE LEFT AND OEM GS430 ON THE RIGHT only real difference is the one on the left has a small C styled clip inside the tip and the one on the right is solid. i believe since they now use the same part # any new ones from a dealer will look like the one on the right
............
anyways i took some pics while i did all this
it all started out with this
i then removed the drivers side one (bank one) for a cleaning, i now understand what OP was saying when he said this
yes the actual filter is encased inside the valve or as the dealer calls it the VALVE ASSEMBLY, CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL. but this valve can still be cleaned, just not as functionally as the gs300's can be
BTW V-8 GUYS yes gs400 and gs430 use the same part #'s
part # for drivers side 153400F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)
part # for passenger side 153300F010 $88.89 (with sewell discount)
in this picture below i break it down just for you visual guys or DIY guys
remove the valve cover (2 10mm bolts)
DRIVERS SIDE
the green arrow is the 10mm bolt that holds the OCV valve into the cam cover area
the blue arrow is the plug that the OCV plugs into (BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN UNPLUGGING THIS AS ITS ONLY 2 WIRES AND THEY CAN/WILL RIP LIKE THE GUY IN THE V8 VIDEO AND MYSELF'S DID)
the red arrow is where the OCV or valve assembly fits in....nothing else needs to be removed just kind of jiggle it out. reassembly is the same, it ONLY goes in one way
this is the OEM drivers side OCV removed and physically it doesnt look bad, no sludging or anything on it. i run full synthetic oil and i change it every 8k, i also do oil analysis which all show it to be fine. regardless i cleaned them with some aerosol brake cleaner which still didnt get much off of them
now the passenger side i had some more issues with when i went to unplug it, the wires pulled out of it....i have a DIY on how to fix this correctly just a little l8r down.
the green arrow is the 10mm bolt that holds the OCV valve into the cam cover area
the blue arrow is the plug that the OCV plugs into (AGAIN BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN UNPLUGGING SO IT DOESNT RIP)
the red arrow is where the OCV or valve assembly fits in....again nothing else needs to be removed just kind of jiggle it out. reassembly is the same, it ONLY goes in one way
here is the passenger side removed with the new plug.i ripped the wires out when removing this plug and i had started to unpin the old one to new pin them back together when i realized in their junk room they had a few toyota harness on the wall so i clipped off a plug and ended up resoldering the wires back
i cleaned BOTH mine, repaired the ripped wire and reinstalled them, borrowed my mechanics SPX scanner i really like (they have several different ones but this is my fav to use)
and cleared the codes. started the car up, ran fine, no CEL, no vibration at low idle and no shuddering either. i reved it a handful of times, took it around the block and then brought it back and let it sit running for the next 10 mins or so while i cleaned up my mess.....drove the car into the bay and lifted it up to install my TRD lower brace. Got that installed, left the work and headed to my night job to pick up something which is about 10-15 miles away. So car has now been on for about 30 minutes and driven about 10-15 miles without any issues. right as im pulling into the parking lot of work i got not just a CEL but a flashing CEL (which means i have a severe misfire going on) i pulled into the parking lot and hooked the scanner back up (i borrowed it from him) all i got was this one lone code P1349B.i reset the code and when i started it back up it didnt blink just stayed solid
so cleaning DIDNT fix mine but i have some used ones from a GS400 coming in today and i will try and see if this fixes them., if not i will dive further into looking into this.......i did notice when the car has sat for awhile and is cold it has NO issues even with the CEL on but when it gets warmed up and has been driven for a minute thats when it will develop the low end ( at a stop light) shake if i come to a stop sign or a stop light and i put it in neutral it seems to behave better but i have really been nursing this car waiting on my parts
i will update when i get everything installed
see all i use is mobil one full synthetic and i been experimenting with these purolater oil filters for the last year or so BUT my oil analysis have been good so far so i dunno what caused this. i just changed oil about 800 miles ago and since i only send every other one of for analysis i didnt send this one which now i wish i had
yeah the alldata was referring to the VVTi sensor for removing the timing belt btw the V8's require removing ONLY the engine cover nothing else to access these
IF YOU RIP YOUR PLUG (V-8 GUYS) THIS INFO IS FOR YOU
THE ATTACHMENT BELOW THIS POST IS FOR THE VISUAL GS430 GUYS AND A WRITE UP IS ALSO BELOW FOR THE OTHER GUYS
there is a attachment on here which shows you the postive/negative side of the plug and the actual plug itself (2nd page of the attachment) but let me break it down even easier for those of you who need a little extra help
were gonna start with the drivers side plug which is gonna be plug C-3. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-3 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the BLUE/YELLOW wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-3 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the GREEN/WHITE wire from the car
now the passenger side (the one i ripped) which is gonna be plug C-4. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-4 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the BLUE/WHITE wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-4 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the BLUE/BLACK wire from the car
IF YOU RIP YOUR PLUG (GS400 GUYS) NO ATTACHMENT INCLUDED BUT HERE IS A SIMPLE WRITE UP BELOW OF HOW TO CORRECTLY WIRE IT BACK
the drivers side plug is gonna be plug C-3. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-3 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the WHITE/GREEN wire coming from the car. The right tab # 2 of the C-3 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the YELLOW/ORANGE (OR RED)wire from the car CANT TELL COLOR WITHOUT THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS ITS FADED
the passenger side is gonna be plug C-4. now looking at the face of the plug (where you can see the metal tabs inside it like in the picture) the left tab # 1 of the C-4 plug is your POSITIVE side and will connect to the WHITE/RED (OR PINK) wire from the car CANT TELL COLOR WITHOUT THE WIRING DIAGRAM AS ITS FADED. The right tab # 2 of the C-4 plug is gonna be the negative side and will connect to the BLUE/BLACK wire from the car
Drivers Side OCV Valve From A Gs400
Passenger Side OCV Valve From A Gs400
ONLY NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE IN THEM.OEM GS400 ON THE LEFT AND OEM GS430 ON THE RIGHT only real difference is the one on the left has a small C styled clip inside the tip and the one on the right is solid. i believe since they now use the same part # any new ones from a dealer will look like the one on the right
............
01-02-16, 03:35 PM
#245
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Solenoid broke in half
When removing the vvt sensor on bank 1 the head of the sensor came off while the rest remained in my engine block. I can not get the thing to budge. I'm going to try heating it wroth a blow torch and lube it up.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
01-12-16, 03:12 PM
#247
Got a pic of what did come out? I dont understand what part your saying is still there?
01-19-16, 08:04 AM
#248
on a side note one of the used ones i installed are finally taking a dump im 99% sure my bank 1 is going bad. just have to get the desire to get out in the cold and work on it
01-19-16, 12:29 PM
#249
I was thinking thats what he meant too, the filter. But who knows...no pics. I want Pics! haha
Just do it :-) its only a 10mm bolt right :-) hehe.
My entire car is throwing every code possible these days...I had some rats chew thru a few ignition coil low-voltage wires last summer, which I "patched" up and its been running good until it rained here in December for 4 days straight...then every light possible on the dash went on...funny...still drives perfectly except no trac control and no ABS (similar to LIMP Mode, without the Limp)
I unplugged the battery overnight the other day, but I havnt driven it yet...and its been freezing at night...so Im basically doing everything possible to "freak" out the ECU and engine...its probably going to start and run like $@#$&! haha, but I need to get emissions to renew plates. Its only ODBII test, so they literally plug in and look for engine code. No CEL, pass.
All the paint on the top of the hood, trunk and roof peeled this past year, and I had to put seat covers on because the leather all finally cracked to the Nth degree. But I like the '98 Beast, and its a nice 3rd car option when I have to do repairs. PLus I dont care if it gets "hurt".
Just do it :-) its only a 10mm bolt right :-) hehe.
My entire car is throwing every code possible these days...I had some rats chew thru a few ignition coil low-voltage wires last summer, which I "patched" up and its been running good until it rained here in December for 4 days straight...then every light possible on the dash went on...funny...still drives perfectly except no trac control and no ABS (similar to LIMP Mode, without the Limp)
I unplugged the battery overnight the other day, but I havnt driven it yet...and its been freezing at night...so Im basically doing everything possible to "freak" out the ECU and engine...its probably going to start and run like $@#$&! haha, but I need to get emissions to renew plates. Its only ODBII test, so they literally plug in and look for engine code. No CEL, pass.
All the paint on the top of the hood, trunk and roof peeled this past year, and I had to put seat covers on because the leather all finally cracked to the Nth degree. But I like the '98 Beast, and its a nice 3rd car option when I have to do repairs. PLus I dont care if it gets "hurt".
01-22-16, 03:38 PM
#250
GUys - check this thread out...might be a life-saver:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ml#post8462479
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ml#post8462479
03-08-16, 10:28 AM
#252
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where do you buy these? I looked at autozone, and they dont have the ocv or filter listed, my ES300 is my first venture into the world of toyota, so other than the dealer, I am not sure where to get parts.
03-28-16, 11:50 AM
#253
Just did both OCV's on my GS400 today, had the day off. Got the unopened new/eom genuine-Lexus parts from eBay, at a great price. Very easy... remove engine cover, remove middle intake pipe, unbolt throttle-body to pull it forward and give the OCV's room to come out, replace OCV's... reverse to put back together. Cleared 12 emissions codes, none have come back. For what I paid for the new parts, never entered my mind to just do one side, since I was doing the labor myself.
Engine's low-end torque has been restored, drives completely different then with the OCV's unpluged (PO had one go bad, so he unplugged both, to even out the idle, yet it defintely hurt low-end torque). If you have the tools, easy enough for anyone that has done basic sensor replacements.
Engine's low-end torque has been restored, drives completely different then with the OCV's unpluged (PO had one go bad, so he unplugged both, to even out the idle, yet it defintely hurt low-end torque). If you have the tools, easy enough for anyone that has done basic sensor replacements.
03-29-16, 06:41 AM
#254
Just did both OCV's on my GS400 today, had the day off. Got the unopened new/eom genuine-Lexus parts from eBay, at a great price. Very easy... remove engine cover, remove middle intake pipe, unbolt throttle-body to pull it forward and give the OCV's room to come out, replace OCV's... reverse to put back together. Cleared 12 emissions codes, none have come back. For what I paid for the new parts, never entered my mind to just do one side, since I was doing the labor myself.
Engine's low-end torque has been restored, drives completely different then with the OCV's unpluged (PO had one go bad, so he unplugged both, to even out the idle, yet it defintely hurt low-end torque). If you have the tools, easy enough for anyone that has done basic sensor replacements.
Engine's low-end torque has been restored, drives completely different then with the OCV's unpluged (PO had one go bad, so he unplugged both, to even out the idle, yet it defintely hurt low-end torque). If you have the tools, easy enough for anyone that has done basic sensor replacements.
Last edited by sakataj; 03-29-16 at 06:44 AM.
03-29-16, 01:22 PM
#255
just for other who might not see the other post i did a DIY for the V8's on post # 67, you DO NOT have to remove or unbolt the throttle body, the intake pipe or anything besides the engine cover, i have 0 clue why you even touched it. glad you got it fixed but your making more work for yourself
Good news is, 12 codes went away, so the check-engine light went out. Bad news is, 2 codes came back, and it's now stumbling (didn't with the OCVs unplugged). After the car heats up to operating temp, idle will drop to 800rpm, yet every few seconds, it'll dip to 400-500rpm for a cylinder, then jump back up to 800rpm. In the absence of reading the entire thread... what's the next idea, after the OCVs have been replaced, and the ODB-II codes say VVT-i? Acceleration and driving off idle is night-and-day from before, yet would be nice to get rid of this next challenge.