VSC and VSC Off Lights - Limp Mode
#466
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Hey does anyone know where I may be able to find the harness for the lever assy for the throttle position sensor? I have a 98 GS. I ordered the assembly and when i removed old one the harness was very brittle and broke up into pieces. Can anyone help? Thanks
#467
Just gone through 2 sets of throttle bodies (including supporting parts) and even a new TCM from toyota,
all the wiring seems to be fine AND its still not working.
So i'm gonna suss out an ECU repairer or maybe just bite the bullet and take it to lexus.
Anyone in Sydney need a whole throttle body assembly? lol
edit: Anyone else fixed their throttle issues by replacing/repairing their ECU?
all the wiring seems to be fine AND its still not working.
So i'm gonna suss out an ECU repairer or maybe just bite the bullet and take it to lexus.
Anyone in Sydney need a whole throttle body assembly? lol
edit: Anyone else fixed their throttle issues by replacing/repairing their ECU?
#469
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Just got the car back from Lexus of Seattle. Had a P1120 code and intermittent limp mode with CEL, VSC and VSC off lights. I also had C1224 and C1223. Not sure if related.
They replaced the lever assy, throttle/accelerator pedal position sensor under the Toyota settlement so no cost to me. Hopefully the limp mode doesn't come back.
On the drive back the car would gather a lot more speed on the freeway than before and the tacho seemed to want to creeep to 1800rpm. Not sure what the deal is with that..
They replaced the lever assy, throttle/accelerator pedal position sensor under the Toyota settlement so no cost to me. Hopefully the limp mode doesn't come back.
On the drive back the car would gather a lot more speed on the freeway than before and the tacho seemed to want to creeep to 1800rpm. Not sure what the deal is with that..
#470
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hello all my car went into limp mode again after putting in a used throttle body the car ran great for about 3 weeks, but it was the first day it was cold and now bam limp mode back again, the first time the car started at 1k rpm , when it usually starts at about 1800 then it warms up it did that the second time any info or advice would be nice
#471
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after 10 frustrating weeks my throttle body is finally fixed.
turns out it was a damaged processor in the ECU. USD$700 to reprogram a second hand unit.
Now I've got two new issues.
1. lifters are making a rattling sound between 1600-2000 rpms
2. the auto is not kicking down gears properly when i accelerate. even in PWR mode.
Has Anyone experience this before?
BTW anyone in sydney looking for a spare GS300 throttle body unit? I have a spare lol
edit: after a new tank of fuel, everything is all good, except my wallet.
turns out it was a damaged processor in the ECU. USD$700 to reprogram a second hand unit.
Now I've got two new issues.
1. lifters are making a rattling sound between 1600-2000 rpms
2. the auto is not kicking down gears properly when i accelerate. even in PWR mode.
Has Anyone experience this before?
BTW anyone in sydney looking for a spare GS300 throttle body unit? I have a spare lol
edit: after a new tank of fuel, everything is all good, except my wallet.
Last edited by zman32; 03-16-14 at 09:45 PM.
#472
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2002 Lexus GS300, FUEL GAUGE ISSUE: After I replaced the OCV & OCV Filter two weeks ago it was running great. All the VSC & VSC Lights OFF went away. However, yesterday and today I had to jumped start my car, today the Fuel Gauge is acting up, its showing a full tank of gas...I know for sure I only have less then 1/2 tank of gas. Does anyone know what is wrong with this issue? Please Help ASAP! Thanks All!
Tuanb2013
Tuanb2013
#473
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2002 Lexus GS300, FUEL GAUGE ISSUE: After I replaced the OCV & OCV Filter two weeks ago it was running great. All the VSC & VSC Lights OFF went away. However, yesterday and today I had to jumped start my car, today the Fuel Gauge is acting up, its showing a full tank of gas...I know for sure I only have less then 1/2 tank of gas. Does anyone know what is wrong with this issue? Please Help ASAP! Thanks All! Tuanb2013
Good luck !
#474
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So I read through this entire thread up to this point. Thank you Az-Dave for your excellent troubleshooting skills. I'm also here in Az and got a lot of great tips from your posts. Unfortunately, it sounds like I am one of the unlucky people with either a bad ecu or a bad brake module. My 99 GS300 cranks hard and eventually starts but won't rev over 1200 rpm. No throttle response at all.
My question is, Is there any simple method to determine which is the problem(ECU or Brake Module)? Also, If I send my original ecu off for one of the cheap reprogramming services ($100 on ebay) am I wasting my money?
After resetting my computer by disconnecting the battery, and reconnecting power, with the key in the on position, I can hear my throttle plate opening and closing perfectly when the APPS sensor is moved but it only works for about 30 seconds and then nothing. Something kills the power to it and it does dead.
Here's what I've done so far:
1) Cleaned the Throttle Body
2) Changed the Plugs
3) Replaced MAF with new unit
4) Replaced APPS sensor with new unit
5) Replaced TPS sensor with new unit
6) Replaced Throttle control motor with new unit
7) Inspected the throttle linkage gears and plate for smooth operation
8) Ran out of money and started reading this post.
Side note: I can hear my brake master cylinder spooling on and off periodically indicating it has a leak? I don't know if this also might be tied to a bad ABS control module. Does anyone have an experience with this? AZ-Dave, I know you said yours went bad.
I'm thinking of replacing the ECU by sending it off to have to restored to factory settings. Does anyone have and ideas on which direction I should lean?
I was previously throwing codes: P0100 P0110 P0120 P1128 P1300 P1780 (Shift lock gets stuck) prior to changing out the parts mentioned about.
I appreciate any advice from someone who has delt with this problem already.
My question is, Is there any simple method to determine which is the problem(ECU or Brake Module)? Also, If I send my original ecu off for one of the cheap reprogramming services ($100 on ebay) am I wasting my money?
After resetting my computer by disconnecting the battery, and reconnecting power, with the key in the on position, I can hear my throttle plate opening and closing perfectly when the APPS sensor is moved but it only works for about 30 seconds and then nothing. Something kills the power to it and it does dead.
Here's what I've done so far:
1) Cleaned the Throttle Body
2) Changed the Plugs
3) Replaced MAF with new unit
4) Replaced APPS sensor with new unit
5) Replaced TPS sensor with new unit
6) Replaced Throttle control motor with new unit
7) Inspected the throttle linkage gears and plate for smooth operation
8) Ran out of money and started reading this post.
Side note: I can hear my brake master cylinder spooling on and off periodically indicating it has a leak? I don't know if this also might be tied to a bad ABS control module. Does anyone have an experience with this? AZ-Dave, I know you said yours went bad.
I'm thinking of replacing the ECU by sending it off to have to restored to factory settings. Does anyone have and ideas on which direction I should lean?
I was previously throwing codes: P0100 P0110 P0120 P1128 P1300 P1780 (Shift lock gets stuck) prior to changing out the parts mentioned about.
I appreciate any advice from someone who has delt with this problem already.
#475
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Hello everyone on here, and a special Hi to AZ-Dave!
My 2001 GS300 has had the same problem like what most of the people mentioned on here. Luckily I found this thread and read all the way to this point.
My car's symptoms: runs normal when the engine is still cool or in the morning. When the engine temperature (heat) gets to normal, the car starts to lose accelerating power. At a certain point, when the car slows down at a traffic light (or stops) and then accelerates, it will go into limp mode and seems like the car's engine almost turn off. It will runs about 30-40 mph when the gas pedal is flooring. I guess that is the 25% remaining opening of the butterfly wings to help me get home like most of the people mentioned on here.
The codes for my car are: P1120 and P1121, which are related to the APPS and TPS. However, I did the resistance test on the these two sensors and they appeared to be within the specs. 1.28 for the TPS and 1.7 for the APPS. I also tested the Throttle Control Motor w/ Clutch and the reading is 3.4
Specifications:
APPS: 1.64-3.28 Kohm
TPS: 1.25-2.35 Kohm
TCM w/ Clutch: 0.3-100 ohm
I don't want to replace any of these sensors if they are still working. Should I go ahead and replace the Lever Assy or the Throttle Control Motor itself like some people mentioned on here?
Please help me out if anyone has had a similar problem like this or know about this problem. Thank you!!!
My 2001 GS300 has had the same problem like what most of the people mentioned on here. Luckily I found this thread and read all the way to this point.
My car's symptoms: runs normal when the engine is still cool or in the morning. When the engine temperature (heat) gets to normal, the car starts to lose accelerating power. At a certain point, when the car slows down at a traffic light (or stops) and then accelerates, it will go into limp mode and seems like the car's engine almost turn off. It will runs about 30-40 mph when the gas pedal is flooring. I guess that is the 25% remaining opening of the butterfly wings to help me get home like most of the people mentioned on here.
The codes for my car are: P1120 and P1121, which are related to the APPS and TPS. However, I did the resistance test on the these two sensors and they appeared to be within the specs. 1.28 for the TPS and 1.7 for the APPS. I also tested the Throttle Control Motor w/ Clutch and the reading is 3.4
Specifications:
APPS: 1.64-3.28 Kohm
TPS: 1.25-2.35 Kohm
TCM w/ Clutch: 0.3-100 ohm
I don't want to replace any of these sensors if they are still working. Should I go ahead and replace the Lever Assy or the Throttle Control Motor itself like some people mentioned on here?
Please help me out if anyone has had a similar problem like this or know about this problem. Thank you!!!
#476
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The ECU must display a check engine light before you can retrieve any stored trouble code. The checking procedures for the APPS and TPS are the same. If they work OK after 30 minutes of driving, then there's a good chance that the stepping motor with clutch assembly is bad. You can turn off the engine, wait 30 seconds, and restart the engine to see if there is control voltage present at the motor (terminals 1 and 2). If there is a change in control voltage but no throttle movement when you move the APPS lever, then the motor is bad. You can buy a replacement unit from Rock Auto or Autozone for less than $200.
A bad motor should trigger a check engine warning light with code P1128. Code P1120 or P1121 is usually associated with APPS.
A bad motor should trigger a check engine warning light with code P1128. Code P1120 or P1121 is usually associated with APPS.
You are providing us with good information on here. Thanks a lot for that!
MikeTS
#477
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you can bring your car to a lexus dealership and its a recall as well as the front wheel lower ball joints snap and completely removes the tire from car and can be deadly [depeneding how fast your driving] thank GOD i was just getting off highway when mine happened and lexus fixed this for free due to it being a recall!
#478
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you can bring your car to a lexus dealership and its a recall as well as the front wheel lower ball joints snap and completely removes the tire from car and can be deadly [depeneding how fast your driving] thank GOD i was just getting off highway when mine happened and lexus fixed this for free due to it being a recall!
I also have issue on the left front wheel on my car. It seems like the metal bar that connects and holds the wheel is broken or something. It is making cranking noises when I am slowing down or accelerating my car. Especially when I am backing out from a parking spot with the wheels slightly turned.
Thanks
#479
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you can bring your car to a lexus dealership and its a recall as well as the front wheel lower ball joints snap and completely removes the tire from car and can be deadly [depeneding how fast your driving] thank GOD i was just getting off highway when mine happened and lexus fixed this for free due to it being a recall!