92 SC400 aftermarket security system? Will I have problems?
01-30-17, 07:57 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
92 SC400 aftermarket security system? Will I have problems?
I started another thread a week ago with 92/92 key questions with no answers. In the mean time I've found many 3rd party options for additional keys.
Instead of trying to get my 92 security system working properly and getting new keys I'm going to go aftermarket system unless folks here advise otherwise.
I have a Viper in my Ford's that works well so I'm thinking I'll do that here as well. I will probably pay an installer to figure it out however and review the work afterward.
From my searches on the forum I've gotten hints that door and ignition sensors as well as the factory system could be an issue and would appreciate any info anyone has or forum links to threads I may have missed.
My 92 has a single master key that barely opens the doors using the lock. It does not lock/unlock using the remote button (brand new battery, after months of no battery in key). The master does not unlock the trunk.
My 93 parts cars has a good master, a damaged master, and a valet key. I'm thinking of swapping the 93 ignition, door, and trunk locks over to the 92. Will I have any issues with this?
I'm going to consult with the local reputable stereo shop about the Viper system install shortly and will post any feedback I get from them.
I will also update this thread with my progress with the security system. I will be adding a Kenwood double din head unit and various aftermarket stereo components that I will document in another thread but will refer the two threads back an forth as they overlap.
Any info on the stock security system and keys would be appreciated, thanks
Instead of trying to get my 92 security system working properly and getting new keys I'm going to go aftermarket system unless folks here advise otherwise.
I have a Viper in my Ford's that works well so I'm thinking I'll do that here as well. I will probably pay an installer to figure it out however and review the work afterward.
From my searches on the forum I've gotten hints that door and ignition sensors as well as the factory system could be an issue and would appreciate any info anyone has or forum links to threads I may have missed.
My 92 has a single master key that barely opens the doors using the lock. It does not lock/unlock using the remote button (brand new battery, after months of no battery in key). The master does not unlock the trunk.
My 93 parts cars has a good master, a damaged master, and a valet key. I'm thinking of swapping the 93 ignition, door, and trunk locks over to the 92. Will I have any issues with this?
I'm going to consult with the local reputable stereo shop about the Viper system install shortly and will post any feedback I get from them.
I will also update this thread with my progress with the security system. I will be adding a Kenwood double din head unit and various aftermarket stereo components that I will document in another thread but will refer the two threads back an forth as they overlap.
Any info on the stock security system and keys would be appreciated, thanks
01-30-17, 09:09 AM
#2
I've yet to hear of anyone successfully disabling the factory alarm, so my main question for the installer would be whether having both work in conjunction will be a problem.
Is your master key equally bad on both door locks? If yes, the key is likely sketchy. If no, your driver's door lock cylinder is probably the issue. Does the key look heavily marred, bent, etc.? Seems weird that it would work (i.e., not the wrong key) but just barely.
The trunk lock is easy to replace. Just peel back the liner and you'll see two bolts holding it in. The door locks are quite a bit more difficult, being very limited access, especially with the window rail in place. They get easier with practice, but set aside a few hours the first time. I've never messed with the ignition cylinder. I'm thinking you would also have to address the immobilizer or remote receiver, whatever is used on that year. Maybe swapping the units mounted behind the back right seat panel would be sufficient, but that's a complete guess.
Is your master key equally bad on both door locks? If yes, the key is likely sketchy. If no, your driver's door lock cylinder is probably the issue. Does the key look heavily marred, bent, etc.? Seems weird that it would work (i.e., not the wrong key) but just barely.
The trunk lock is easy to replace. Just peel back the liner and you'll see two bolts holding it in. The door locks are quite a bit more difficult, being very limited access, especially with the window rail in place. They get easier with practice, but set aside a few hours the first time. I've never messed with the ignition cylinder. I'm thinking you would also have to address the immobilizer or remote receiver, whatever is used on that year. Maybe swapping the units mounted behind the back right seat panel would be sufficient, but that's a complete guess.
01-30-17, 11:21 AM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I've yet to hear of anyone successfully disabling the factory alarm, so my main question for the installer would be whether having both work in conjunction will be a problem.
Is your master key equally bad on both door locks? If yes, the key is likely sketchy. If no, your driver's door lock cylinder is probably the issue. Does the key look heavily marred, bent, etc.? Seems weird that it would work (i.e., not the wrong key) but just barely.
The trunk lock is easy to replace. Just peel back the liner and you'll see two bolts holding it in. The door locks are quite a bit more difficult, being very limited access, especially with the window rail in place. They get easier with practice, but set aside a few hours the first time. I've never messed with the ignition cylinder. I'm thinking you would also have to address the immobilizer or remote receiver, whatever is used on that year. Maybe swapping the units mounted behind the back right seat panel would be sufficient, but that's a complete guess.
Is your master key equally bad on both door locks? If yes, the key is likely sketchy. If no, your driver's door lock cylinder is probably the issue. Does the key look heavily marred, bent, etc.? Seems weird that it would work (i.e., not the wrong key) but just barely.
The trunk lock is easy to replace. Just peel back the liner and you'll see two bolts holding it in. The door locks are quite a bit more difficult, being very limited access, especially with the window rail in place. They get easier with practice, but set aside a few hours the first time. I've never messed with the ignition cylinder. I'm thinking you would also have to address the immobilizer or remote receiver, whatever is used on that year. Maybe swapping the units mounted behind the back right seat panel would be sufficient, but that's a complete guess.
As for the alarm, the stereo shop guys said no problem, but I think they just wanted the sale. I did see a YouTube video on pilling the ingnition tumbler from an IS300 that might be helpful. I'll try this method on the parts car.
I assume there's a black box for the immobilizer somewhere too that may need changing.
before getting too deep I'm going to check function of all the parts car keys as well.
Last edited by Returd; 01-30-17 at 11:34 AM.
02-06-17, 08:17 PM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I took the drivers door off today to replace the hinge. Man the forward connector is tough to get off.
Anyway I found a dogs breakfast of aftermarket wiring for what appear to be an alarm system. Lots of twist and tape connections. I assume the system is non functional, but don't know what I'm looking at. I had to clip a couple of wires going to the door lock switch which I assume were used to actuate remote lock/unlock. I have a new Clifford 2 way alarm purchased to go in, that I'm going to take to a reputable stereo shop to install and sort out the existing.
I did replace the door lock connections with color correct wires salvaged from my parts car. I soldered and taped. I looked at pulling the pins from the connector so I could heat shrink instead of tape but that didn't work out. I'll go through the rest of the connections. I imagine power and a few other connections will be equally dubious but will be needed for the new system. I'll clean up what I can.
I'm also thinking of pulling the complete interior including carpet and passenger seat so I can get at the wiring more easily.
Anyway I found a dogs breakfast of aftermarket wiring for what appear to be an alarm system. Lots of twist and tape connections. I assume the system is non functional, but don't know what I'm looking at. I had to clip a couple of wires going to the door lock switch which I assume were used to actuate remote lock/unlock. I have a new Clifford 2 way alarm purchased to go in, that I'm going to take to a reputable stereo shop to install and sort out the existing.
I did replace the door lock connections with color correct wires salvaged from my parts car. I soldered and taped. I looked at pulling the pins from the connector so I could heat shrink instead of tape but that didn't work out. I'll go through the rest of the connections. I imagine power and a few other connections will be equally dubious but will be needed for the new system. I'll clean up what I can.
I'm also thinking of pulling the complete interior including carpet and passenger seat so I can get at the wiring more easily.
03-13-17, 05:33 PM
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I've been pecking away at wiring in the new alarm and aftermarket stereo. I thought this "Installer Companion" might be handy.
Wherever possible I've been pulling the pin from the connector and soldering in a color correct pigtail long enough to reach the the driver kick panel area where I'll be mounting the alarm brain. I'll take a few photos of my progress tomorrow.
As an aside, pulling pins from Lexus connectors is a bit of a challenge. I made some pick tools from a piece of hardened steel from an old wiper blade.
Wherever possible I've been pulling the pin from the connector and soldering in a color correct pigtail long enough to reach the the driver kick panel area where I'll be mounting the alarm brain. I'll take a few photos of my progress tomorrow.
As an aside, pulling pins from Lexus connectors is a bit of a challenge. I made some pick tools from a piece of hardened steel from an old wiper blade.
03-13-17, 11:10 PM
#7
I thought they were impossible at first, but I eventually realized that most of them have a little side cover that you pry open first to release tension on the pin clips. With that done, small jeweler's screwdrivers work quickly for all of them. Just pick the one whose blade is closest in size to the clip you're trying to release.
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03-14-17, 06:34 AM
#8
OP - I have a Viper Alarm with SmartStart GPS System which I have installed in one of my 1992 SC300 that had the stock alarm and now also with a 2jzGTE drivetrain. As long as it is wired properly , I don't see any problem at all. All features of the Viper System do work too.
So it wasn't a sales pitch made by someone in whatever audio / alarm shop you have been if they said they can do it.
So it wasn't a sales pitch made by someone in whatever audio / alarm shop you have been if they said they can do it.
03-14-17, 06:49 AM
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
OP - I have a Viper Alarm with SmartStart GPS System which I have installed in one of my 1992 SC300 that had the stock alarm and now also with a 2jzGTE drivetrain. As long as it is wired properly , I don't see any problem at all. All features of the Viper System do work too.
So it wasn't a sales pitch made by someone in whatever audio / alarm shop you have been if they said they can do it.
So it wasn't a sales pitch made by someone in whatever audio / alarm shop you have been if they said they can do it.
Yes I spoke to a trusted guy I've used before who provided the installer companion guide for me. The one thing that I'm curious about is the switch for turning on/off the key lock function. I assume I'll have to leave this in the on position.
03-14-17, 06:53 AM
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I thought they were impossible at first, but I eventually realized that most of them have a little side cover that you pry open first to release tension on the pin clips. With that done, small jeweler's screwdrivers work quickly for all of them. Just pick the one whose blade is closest in size to the clip you're trying to release.
With all of that, I wasn't able to pull the pins from the ignition connector. I even had one from another car to experiment with. I lifted the locking tab and was working on the internal clip but just couldn't get the pin out. I have gotten pins out of most of the connectors but there are two styles of connector that have as of yet stymied me.
03-15-17, 06:21 AM
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Here's my connector pin pulling arsenal. I have successfully pulled pins from the connectors on the left but noth the two types on the right. the brown/black connector is the ignition harness plugging into the steering column. The middle 3 tools are what i made up from a wiper blade support. I have another whole wiper blade support laying accross the photo. It's hardened and flat making for good tool material, and free.
I've found that with some gentle working I can lift the plastic locking tab right out of the connector, but lifting it partially is good enough. Getting it out fully prevents accidentally having it lock back down when working on the connector. I had that happen numerous times.
These connectors are ones I harvested from a scrap yard car to practice on.
I've found that with some gentle working I can lift the plastic locking tab right out of the connector, but lifting it partially is good enough. Getting it out fully prevents accidentally having it lock back down when working on the connector. I had that happen numerous times.
These connectors are ones I harvested from a scrap yard car to practice on.
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01-13-11 01:35 PM