electrical troubleshooting
#17
^ Thanks in advance!
I took the seat and carpet back out to finish up wire removal in that area, so I've got more room to work in the foot well now as a result. It sure is a head scratcher when you follow along wires that do nothing at one end, only to get to the other end and have them be the only wires on a connector. There must have been a lot of non-US options that these cars were wired for.
I took the seat and carpet back out to finish up wire removal in that area, so I've got more room to work in the foot well now as a result. It sure is a head scratcher when you follow along wires that do nothing at one end, only to get to the other end and have them be the only wires on a connector. There must have been a lot of non-US options that these cars were wired for.
#18
Working on harness relocation (P.O. taped up some rubbing from being lowered), which required a bit of cutting of the wheel well to access one of the bolts holding the smushed grommet to the firewall, and I think I figured it out.
A) The smushed grommet (from where the car was hit previously) was putting extra pressure on the main wiring bundle. That would be worth trying to get straightened out.
B) There's a little black lever on that big white connector to the right of the fuse box. When you press down on the lever, the connector pops out. I had to free up the firewall grommet first to relieve pressure on the wires, however. With the connector out, you can see it's definitely a stock mount on the side of the fuse box.
C) With all that extra stuff cleared out of the way, I found what looks to be the source of the clutch pedal rubbing issues: the fuse box wasn't pushed in all the way. The bottom is sticking out ~1" from where it's supposed to be bolted down. Hopefully, I can undo whatever the P.O.'s did that made them unable to push it back in; might take some finessing. Then I can clean up some wiring and, fingers crossed, have no more interference with the pedal.
A) The smushed grommet (from where the car was hit previously) was putting extra pressure on the main wiring bundle. That would be worth trying to get straightened out.
B) There's a little black lever on that big white connector to the right of the fuse box. When you press down on the lever, the connector pops out. I had to free up the firewall grommet first to relieve pressure on the wires, however. With the connector out, you can see it's definitely a stock mount on the side of the fuse box.
C) With all that extra stuff cleared out of the way, I found what looks to be the source of the clutch pedal rubbing issues: the fuse box wasn't pushed in all the way. The bottom is sticking out ~1" from where it's supposed to be bolted down. Hopefully, I can undo whatever the P.O.'s did that made them unable to push it back in; might take some finessing. Then I can clean up some wiring and, fingers crossed, have no more interference with the pedal.
Last edited by t2d2; 10-29-16 at 04:17 AM.
#19
One of the items on my to-do list was cleaning the engine grounds. In doing so, I discovered that the bolt at the back left of the block was spinning freely and caked with oil and grease (valve cover gasket; another to-do), presumably doing very little to make contact with the ground wire.
I felt like I had a small amount of parasitic drain still, so I ordered a battery terminal disconnect switch that arrived today for properly testing the sneaky draws. I haven't installed it yet, but after cleaning the grounds, adding fresh dialectric grease, and securing the majorly loose one, it's a big improvement in how much more eager the car is to start up. It went from mildly lagging to instantaneous. If that holds true after sitting for a day or two, I'll be ready to call the parasitic drain solved.
I didn't really get anywhere definitive with the clutch pedal / wire rubbing. The two smaller harness bundles I was able to tuck up and over, and tie wrap to the pedal stop. The biggest of the three bundles (that go through the wheel well) with the big white connector discussed previously, is a real bugger. Its wires have to be directed down otherwise they hit on the pedal arm. But, directing them down, there's nothing to wrap them to. So, I massaged them in a downward direction as much as possible and have pedal clearance now, but I'm not overly confident they'll stay in that position permanently.
I felt like I had a small amount of parasitic drain still, so I ordered a battery terminal disconnect switch that arrived today for properly testing the sneaky draws. I haven't installed it yet, but after cleaning the grounds, adding fresh dialectric grease, and securing the majorly loose one, it's a big improvement in how much more eager the car is to start up. It went from mildly lagging to instantaneous. If that holds true after sitting for a day or two, I'll be ready to call the parasitic drain solved.
I didn't really get anywhere definitive with the clutch pedal / wire rubbing. The two smaller harness bundles I was able to tuck up and over, and tie wrap to the pedal stop. The biggest of the three bundles (that go through the wheel well) with the big white connector discussed previously, is a real bugger. Its wires have to be directed down otherwise they hit on the pedal arm. But, directing them down, there's nothing to wrap them to. So, I massaged them in a downward direction as much as possible and have pedal clearance now, but I'm not overly confident they'll stay in that position permanently.
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