SCFactory

iTrader: (2)

Whats the correct way to relocate the battery on the SC400
I had relocated in my SC300 and just ran the cable straight from the fuse block to the back
I forget what I had did with the Starter cable though...
STOCK Basically goes starter to positive terminal and fuse block to positive terminal and negative grounded
To relocate do I put the the starter cable directly to fuse block and and just run the positive to the back?
Also is a FUSE actually needed I didn't run one before and it was ok so whats the deal
any input appreciated thanks!

salimshah

Battery should directly connect to the solenoid of the starter preferably thick copper with no joints/splices. Make sure you have adequate insulation at each support point with minimum sharp bends. Try to find a cable 1.5 times as thick as the short battery to starter cable for this. You should run the second wire from the battery to the fuse-box (main fuse). You can get bye with the same thickness as the one you have (battery to the fusebox) but 1.25x would be better.

Also dont forget to provide eventing and drain tray fro the battery.

Can you share your reasons to the move? Weight distribution or trying to use the space to do something. One alternative is to use a smaller battery. The down side to a smaller battery is that it may not be able to handle repeated starts without an opportunity to get recharged or battery drain without the engine running [lights on, brake-light on, music etc].

Salim

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I ran a smaller battery for awhile and it worked pretty well, but it felt like the capacity was borderline with all our parasitic drains, so I went back to the big lead-acid boat anchor.

My CD changer on the new car died the 2nd time loading the cartridge (it tried putting disc 1 in with disc 2 at the changeover and jammed badly; won't play again after freeing everything up), bringing me back to thinking about a battery relocation to that spot in the trunk.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I just took the cable off the stock battery, and connected that to a huge gauge wire going to the trunk... why rewire the starter and stuff its already done you know.

SCFactory

iTrader: (2)

Just weight distribution I already have the relocation kit from my old car so was thinking about using it. Ali SC3 how did you connect it to the old wires? Everything is straight forward except their is two positive wires one to STARTER and one to FUSE BLOCK so where would I connect to Wire running to the trunk and using what?
I remember my last one I just connected to wire straight to the Fuse block, but I cant remember where I put the starter cable to???

freakness

Dude,


Beyond lame. It's a loss in terms of added weight of new cable and negligible weight balance in a 3,600 lbs car. The quality of the work most people perform when doing this "mod" often results in a greater chance of an accidental fire. You are MUCH better off installing a slightly smaller battery with good cranking values in the stock location.



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SCFactory

iTrader: (2)

UHM you are beyond lame, I wasn't talking about the mod being lame I meant the fact that I forgot how to wire it..... and its my freaking car so I do whatever the hell I want with it. QUALITY OF WORK? I had my battery relocated in my last SC for over a year never had a fire or even a burnt fuse LOL I think youre lame sauce dude... I'm not looking for weight reduction as I STATED WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION... so I dont know why you're talking about the weight of a WIRE... just to relocate it because I already have the KIT and then you're talking about buy a NEW battery for 200$ to save like 10 pounds? WOW ok I should have known I would get a response like this do me favor and stop replying to my threads... Ive left the battery alone I wasn't planning to move it, I would like a reference in case I want to use the relocation kit in the future and for anybody else who wanted to relocate their battery and needed a quick reference. SO please dont respond unless you have answers. Thank you

SCFactory

iTrader: (2)

Not only that but I see you commenting on peoples thread with less than informative replies, what have you even done to your car that you think you can go around giving people all this garbage advice its probably freaking stock!

freakness

Dude,

As I stated, "... negligible weight balance in a 3,600 lbs car." The weight penalty is TRUE and VALID, whether you want to hear it or not. A new battery costing $200 that saves ten pounds is a superior solution to adding 10 lbs of cable to allow the installation of a battery in the rear, even if it's for free. This is a forum, not a * CLICK LIKE * website to everything you say or believe. If you want to ADD WEIGHT to your car, regardless of cost, go for it.


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freakness

Dude,

Please provide a link to these, "less than informative replies," that you're referencing. I want to read the comments that I've apparently written that you consider, "garbage advice." A forum is about ideas; some are good, some are bad. Don't take a rejection of an idea as a rejection of you, personally. In other words, please chillax.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you guys need to chill out. freakness thats like telling someone who is into stance that they will have camber wear and it hurts performance, they are well aware of it already... are they going to stop... no. I could have used a smaller battery, but I wont cause they suck at starting the car. the weight of a cable does not bother me I just don't want to look at the stupid thing and also that weight hangs in front of the front wheels which is a bad place to have a lot of weight, I rather prefer it over my rear wheels where the weight will actually do some good. I ripped out the stock amp and cd changer and installed it on the passenger side, so overall I did save some weight actually.

SCfactory, I can't remember, I think the stock battery cable has a hole in it to attatch wires, so I just put a large connector on the thick gauge wire to the trunk and bolted the 2 together and secured it out of sight. they make those floating battery post things also you can install in the bay.

I think you can also run all the wires to the fuse box instead, I dunno I just took the easy way out. I think there are a few threads on it somewhere.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

It's around a 1.2% improvement in front:rear balance, according to my spreadsheet with not quite stock numbers. That's extremely significant in the hunt for 50/50.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

good practice when sticking a battery in the trunk is to get a sealed AGM type. if you spill the regular battery or if it vents in your trunk and gets inside your car that would be bad news. I ran a regular battery temporarily and then swapped to the sealed type when I found a good deal for peace of mind.

SCFactory

iTrader: (2)

DUDE, stop starting all your posts with DUDE.. DUDE. and the evidence is on this thread, Ive already asked you to stop posting on my threads.


and to the people who chimed in I will be leaving the battery in the engine bay till I get some other things sorted with the vehicle, but will most likely just run it directly in between the two stock wires were the normal positive terminal would be like ALI SC3 said

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Battery in your Trunk ------> Circuit breaker in the trunk (any short circuit will completely shut batter power off so you don't start a fire as someone was afraid of) ------> Distribution Box in the engine bay (better if it is a fused distribution box so power will be cut on each terminal circuit that is shorted ) ---> Starter / Fusebox / and other circuits ( will be limited on the number of terminals on your distribution box)

that is how my battery relocations are on two of my SCs .