Southaven

I'm having a real problem accessing the OBDi port located under the dash. this 77 year old body just won't twist and turn like it once could. I don't think I dreamed this I think i read some where you could unscrew test port plug and pull it out from under the dash for better access. Is this true or just a dream on my part. This newby needs help.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Moved to our Performance & Maintenance section.

Southhaven, the OBD1 test port under the dash is actually the same as the one on top of the engine mounted near the upper intake manifold. Could you not have an easier time accessing it from the under-hood location? I can completely understand wishing to avoid contorting yourself when servicing your SC. The port under the dash is indeed a bit inconvenient to reach since it is such a low riding vehicle.

As for unscrewing it and pulling it out for better access... I'm not sure on that. It would depend on the extra cord length behind the dash and I'm not personally aware of how much slack is built into that bundle of wires.

Sometimes I use the under-dash OBD1 port for diagnosis but other times I just pop the hood and jump the same pins from the test port in that location. It's the same difference to the car's ECU.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

If it's something you need to get to often, it's probably easier to just remove the lower trim panel it clips into. There are three screws and a soft metal clip that holds it to the steering column. I've tried popping the OBDI port in and out while that lower panel is in place, and it's pretty tough to reach around behind to do so. The panel orients the port at an angle that is difficult to see, for sure.

With the panel removed, you can just tuck the port behind the carpet. You'll likely never notice the panel isn't there unless you're lying on your back in the footwell. The only thing it's really good for is mounting the courtesy light alongside the OBDI port.

mjeds

just get an extender:

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_1282fzk2o8_b


then mount that in the glove box. then you don't have to worry about moving the factory harness and damaging anything.

Southaven

An extender would be nice be they seem to only be for an OBDII system. Mine is an OBDI system

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I use the one in the engine bay 99% of the time.

mjeds

ah, didn't notice that.

isn't there one under the hood as well, I know my 1995 4Runner has one there. pretty sure most Toyota's do.

Southaven

I've tried the one in the engine bay but can't get the dash warning light to blink. I'm doing something wrong. I probably should have stuck with 'type A MGs

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

jumper these 2 pins... it says check ignition timing, but its also how you check the dash warning light (CEL).
Dont put it in neutral, you can do it with the car in park and its safer.


If you do the jumper and there is no check engine light blinking on the dash, that is a sign of a bad ecu.

also check that when you first put the key in, the light comes on for a couple seconds.. then goes out.
If that does not come on at all, then either someone pulled out the bulb from the cluster (so potential buyers wont see there are codes stored), or it could also be the 2nd sign of a bad ecu.

is the car running alright?

problems with the ecu are well known, see this hilarious toyota test for a bad ecu


really though dont heat it up or spray water over the car, if the light is coming on when key is in and goes off, then the bulb is in there... and if it wont display codes or blink steady once you jumper those 2 pins (meaning no codes stored), then you know its pretty much the ecu.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Wow. They must have put those two diagnostic steps in just to see if anyone reads the whole manual. The fine print probably says your warranty is voided if you try either one.

Southaven

You ask if the car is running alright, it purrs like a kitten, it's, responsive, never any hesitation, great acceleration, that's what is so baffling. Because of the way she runs I'm tempted to say "to h3ll with it". This all started after I had spent $1400 on the air conditioning system. I bought the car the June 17 2016 mainly as a "toy". I recently sold my MG Type A to a banker in New York City so I was without a "toy".
I do appreciate the illustrations, info you have provided. I'm going to try and make one of those sst 09843-18020

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

So I guess I missed why you are trying to pull the codes, but maybe you got the wrong pins, it does happen.
I guess try again and just use a paperclip, or a short piece of wire, either one works.

Southaven

Ali SC3I, I used your illustration plus your advise to use a paper clip and got a code 24 and a code 31. I think both of these codes are related to the MAF. But the performance of the car tells me something else, I'm not sure what that some else is, but the idle is smooth, the acceleration is great. I ran it up to 4000 RPM earlier and she did not miss a beat. Suggestions and or ideas PLEASE

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that indicates an issue with the maf and intake air temp sensor which is part of the maf, did you try and clean the maf recently? those mafs should never be cleaned with maf cleaner or they can get messed up. it could get worse if its not bad now, check your battery terminals are clean and not corroded, also make sure the wires on the maf themselves are not brittle or the insulation peeling off. it could even be a bad maf or ecu, lots of possibilities, even a bad ground for the maf (I want to say the maf grounds to the rear of the cylinder head).

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

If you ever need someone somewhat close by to bounce things off of, I am southeast of you a couple of hours. I have 3 of these babies so I have various pieces and parts and a little experience, although I just bought the first one a year or so ago. The original intent was to buy one to build a road race car and buy another for parts, but it just kind of expanded from there to the race car, a daily driver, and a parts car. Anyway, just shout if you need something.