shairacer

Howdy ya'll, so I recently just finished my single turbo conversion on my 2jzgte vvti swapped sc300. I am running jdm gte vvti ecu. The problem is after doing the conversion the car will not stay idle. It will start and stay running for about 5 seconds then just die. While it is running, if I try to give it gas it just die immediately. There were no issues before the conversion.

This is my first single turbo conversion so I am unsure if I am missing something or my vacuum routing is incorrect. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

reset your ECU by unplugging the ground or EFI fuse for 5 minutes , then reset your ETCS-i / DBW system by turning key on (don't start) , press accelerator all the way down for 30 seconds, then turn key off

If that doesnt resolve your problem then check for leaks between your MAF and your throttle body .

can you post a picture of engine bay so we have an idea how things are routed ?

shairacer

Thank you for responding. I figured out the problem. I was running a 4" intake pipe on stock ecu which is a no no. I went back to the 3" intake and it idles perfect now. How it drives is another story LOL. Doesn't feel like its boosting. I need to hook up my boost gauge and take it out for another drive.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I am glad you did figure it out. The MAF and VVTi ECTS-i system on a 2jzgte VVTi is very sensitive to un-metered air.

You are right , with a 4" that means more air comes in than what is metered so the Throttle body gets more air than what the ECU info is receiving from the sensors.

Thanks for reporting back . It will surely help other people who does the 2jzgte vvti swaps in the future.

Now , you say it is not boosting ? Have you pressure tested the air induction system ?

shairacer

So I got my boost controller connected but its either not working properly or I installed it incorrectly. Its an AEM tru boost gauge that I got through a trade. I am trying to use it as just a boost gauge which I am not sure is possible since my readings are all over the place.

Anyways, I still took it out for a drive and really pushed it this time. I can feel full boost come on at about 4500 rpm, again my boost gauge did not show me anything but I can feel the car pulling harder all the way to redline. I currently have a 10psi spring on the tial wastegate. I am also running 3" downpipe and midpipe but still factory exhaust. The manifold is a cast iron ebay manifold with a BW S366 .88 undivided bolted to it.

So the question I have is should I be spoolin sooner than 4500 rpm with my setup? Reason I went with a cast manifold was because I thought the turbo would spool sooner.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

yes you can use the tru-boost as gauge only. Are you sure it is setup properly ? It should read vacuum inHG and boost in PSI.

without a boost controller , you are only boosting up to what your wastegate can hold which is 10psi... not much for 67mm turbo.


here is a picture of my tru-boost (first on the left) used only as a vacuum / boost gauge

shairacer

Thanks gerb. I think I may have a kink in my vacuum line somewhere. I had to run the thing all the way from the engine bay into the cabin and along the pillar where the gauge is mounted.

My boost options are limited to 17psi because I am still running factory ecu so I am fine with 10 psi for the time being. Emissions is due just around the corner so I will not be doing any major modifications until that is taken care of. My goal is 500 hp which is doable with bigger injectors and a piggyback system. I'm a little disappointed by the lack of low end power though.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you could go with a s362 and hit 500 with better spool, but everyone likes those s366's also.
make sure the boost controller is working right, it can help with how it spools.