Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

WOW!
I did not see the Vette!
I had to just suspend all spending on the car and pay some bills for a while man.
Loads of stuff going on this week though ;-)

Gotta' peek at your threads!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

yeah go through my build thread... am restoring another 1 of 120 97 5speed sc300

i can't seem to find an end on these SCs..,,lol... need to get into a hiatus and stop working on them,

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Good to see you are back on top of it, it seems to be coming along nicely.

Haha, I have been keeping an eye out for a clean early year sc400 but who knows when I will find one or have the time to go through it after that.
Also discovered I can take a 454 and have it rebuilt as a 496 pretty easily so I think that is my new goal with a t56 behind it =)
Audi is almost done!! just have to get some more wiring in

It happens man, have to take care of your business sometimes which is why I had to thin the heard.

Soon I think Gerrb will have all 120 out of 120 - 97 manuals at his place... just give the man some time

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

You might be surprised , I might have another one before the end of the year. The guy who has the other one I was eyeing which has a bad engine seems like is gonna give in soon since it has been sitting for 3 years with a bad engine. But the damn car (body and interior) is immaculate. I might be lucky again soon. Who knows .You know I don't need the engine anyway .

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

hahaha I just had a feeling that would happen I am sure you can slap an engine together for a couple more SC's.
I like the 97's but personally I am a 92-95 junkie cause of obd1 and emissions stuff.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

AliGuru,
Hey man, quick one. My mechanic can't fit the throttle body end in now. It hits the power steering pump. The only way he can see it fitting is to take the intake back off and shorten it as you did. I used the RMR throttle body.

Will I have to remove the intake and shorten it, or is there another way to get it in there?

I will have pictures tomorrow.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

WOW!
I just caught the "thin the heard" line and noticed the SC300 missing from your sig. :-(

If this is so, as long as you feel good about it, It's great (shocking as it may be)!

SG

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

its probably cause it was cut and welded making it shorter, normally it does not hit the pump.
shortening might be the way to go about it snap a pic if possible.
and I def feel good about it, the stingray is amazing

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Hi Ali!!! I Have a question for you about the 2jzgte ecu mod, I want to you tell me if it makes any sense to you.
im looking at both ecus wiring pinouts and see that are few are in different location and some extra pins.

for example the ge ecu has a only one 02 sensor, where the ge has two, so I can completely delete the #2 pin wire and use it to run whatever

and one more for you, if you have trick?

There are two cam position sensors on the gte ecu where on the ge I don't think those pins exist pin 5 and 6 on the 80 pin connector.
so if the ecu doesn't get those readings from pin 5 and 6 for cam sensors, do I need to worry about them getting cam signals?
or besides these pins anything else needs wiring
Igf, igt(pins 52-58) t1, t2, map, ait, coils.
or run only wires in your post diagram?
also can my 02 sensor wire be shortened so it doesn't have to loop all the way around the engine?

Thanks Ali you are a glowing light!!!

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

The Stingray looks amazing! It must be a blast! If you go deep on it in a forum, please let us know.
I can't thank you enough for all of your help with my car. You are outrageously knowledgeable and quite generous with it.

Enjoy your Stingray brother!

scsexy

iTrader: (1)

Damn Ali When did you sell the sc.... I regularly check denver craigslist and didnt see it. What'd you get for her? i'm just wondering what my 93 manual na-t 14 psi 440cc gte ecu is worth, I like to think 8k. kinda same set up you had besides less boost.

That 496 + t56 should be monster in the corvette how much does it weigh? the vette

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the jdm gte has one o2, and the ge has at least 2, so yes I just use one of the original wires and you can repurpose the other wire.
you can also just run new wires if you want like mentioned, I have done that since you need 3 extra wires if you run a heated sensor, power, ground, and heater signal.
The wiring for the heated sensor is in the tt ecu mod thread.

the ge and gte have the same number of cam and crank sensors.
on the GTE the crank sensor is on the oil pump by the crank, and the cam sensors (2) on the head.
on the GE the crank sensor and 2 cam sensors are in the distributor.

when doing the tt ecu mod, you don't have to change any wiring for the cam/crank, just make sure the distributor is in and the 4 wire connector is on snug.
the wiring is the same to the ecu, except the gte has 3 grounds one for each sensor.
on the ge since all the sensors are in the distributor, the 3 grounds are tied together to 1 ground wire.
It doesn't matter because the 3 ground pins on the ge and gte ecu are tied together inside the ecu, so it works plug and play.

the ignitor and coil wiring is in the tt ecu mod thread as pictured, thats pretty much it. dont forget larger injectors.

Thanks man, I don't have a build thread for it this one is a personal resto build just for me =)
No problem, just glad to help others enjoy their SC's like I enjoyed mine.. with a turbo.
If you need help with anything don't hesitate to contact me.

There is just something about power-sliding a 46 year old sports car that feels extra exhilarating.. its surprisingly predictable when you kick the rear out.
I drive it like I stole it every time, I think most c3 owners are a lot more conservative than me =) I think I put a couple new stress cracks in the fiberglass


A couple months ago, I hardly used it in the last few years and it was time to move on. I def didn't get 8k for it, I don't think any turbo SC's are getting that unless you have a clean gte swap and clean everything.
Probably would have had better $$ parting it out but I didn't have the extra time for that and its tough for me to take apart a good working car.

The vette is like 3200 lbs give or take a few hundred depending on the year, block size and trans, its pretty similar to the SC in weight actually.
You would think its lighter being fiberglass, but the frame is overbuilt like a truck because of the fiberglass body so its still heavy.. things got like 4-5 cross members I forget.
Yeah the 496 will be a monster, I have to decide the route I want to take. the motor I have in the car is in good shape, it just needs to be tuned cause its out of adjustment at the moment.
If I find it has enough power after that I might just dot he t56 swap, but if the motor is not cutting it then yes gonna find a 454 block and have a 496 stroker kit put on it when rebuilding it.

novakn360

Hello Ali and everyone and Happy New Years!

First off I want to thank you so much for this thread, this is exactly what any DIYer could only dream of. Reading through this thread and others by you have helped me consolidate so much information that was otherwise unsure, or scattered among tens of posts.

Now on to my questions:
ECU: MegaSquirt Pro
Car: 96 JDM Supra Non-vvti n/a obd1

1) Dizzy Cam and Crank: How reliable is the stock cam and crank sensor off of the dizzy. It's obviously good enough for n/a but under higher boost is there any drift or other issues that could bite later on? What power levels would you say it's capable up to? I have read the bit about large gap, low voltage etc. Also if you do recommend switching sensors what do you recommend? Also, are these sensors enough to run sequential injection and spark (6 GM LS1 CNP or somethign similar).

2) FFIM vs stock runners: I have read that the stock runners are great in lower end torque (15-20ftlbs) due to the thin long runners and thus higher velocity air, but also decent in higher HP due to the valve that sits after the first 'V' split in intake air that transforms it into effectively shorter runners (I want to control this valve with the EMS). This leads me to believe that staying with the stock runners is ideal since it will allow me to spool a bit faster. The issue is that with a FMIC the piping will be very long and inefficient, causing more lag, and side mount or same side intercoolers are not an option from what I've heard. Will the effects of each cancel each other out? Am I too much of a perfectionist? If you can give me a good enough reason (besides looks and access to plugs etc) I will switch to a cheap ebay FFIM.

3) Other Sensors: Do you happen to have a spec sheet for OEM sensors that will aid in calibrating? It would be nice to know the exact behaviours of signals to and from various components like the TPS, IAT sensor, etc. I know I could hook up an oscilloscope and figure things out that way (heat up the IAT sensor, and calculate the curve) but I feel like somebody has gathered and compiled this information before and it is extremely hard to piece it all together from various threads where everyone could be talking about different variations of the motor. My service manual is unfortunately all in Japanese and I've had a hard time finding a good one that I can ctrl+f like I see you're doing in some of your post images.

I don't have a lot of $ for the build and I'm trying to keep it low budget anyways, as I plan on writing up a step by step low budget but upgradeable megasquirt guide with 2jzge including tuning and component choice etc. Therefore the more stock components I can use the better.

Sorry to bombard you with so many questions :S

Also here's my rough and random build notes and details if anybody's curious: https://github.com/Number1Boss/96-Supra-Turbo-Build

novakn360

Also, to the guy running AEM V2 with issues reading the crank signal. I also got this wiring diagram from nathaninwa on the supra forums that really helps get the signal to the desired behaviour of the megasquirt ECU. I don't know if it will help with your AEM low voltage troubles, as adding resistance would most likely lower the voltage further but this apparently worked for us megasquirters to clean up the signal. Worth a shot I guess.

http://imgur.com/a/Ke1xg

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

1) The stock triggers work well enough for most any power level, really its an RPM based sensor so it doesn't matter that much.
as for drift and tuning for a distributor that is cam driven, there doesn't seem to be much of a drift issue, just do the initial timing sync and its pretty reliable up to within a couple degrees and you factor that into the tune.
Its basically due to the timing belt tensioner and any play as its moving but its pretty consistent.

If you get into seriously high power and need that super accurate tuning, some people swap to a hall effect sensor mounted behind the passenger cam gear and use a gear with magnets.
The megasquirt likes those digital signals alot better.

Another option since yours is a 96, not positive about the jdm motors but US 96+ motors have a 2nd crank sensor on the crankshaft that is a 36-2 wheel like the vvti's.
so you could technically rewire to use that crank sensor, and then use the cam trigger from the distributor or add one to the head, or even use a vvti head and run wasted spark with the 1 cam trigger.
this 36-2 has a lot more resolution and wont have any timing belt associated drift, but the cam trigger will still have some.. but then again so do the cams that trigger the gte head mounted sensor so that might be a wash.

So there are lots of options but the stock setup is just fine for majority of builds. I have only seen a handfull of people going with the hall setup, but running off the oil pump sensor imay be worth looking into.
People have been building high hp na-t's with the stock sensors for a long time... as long as the ecu can pick them up reliably too which can be an issue sometimes and require resistors etc..
the is300's or any 2jzge or 2jzgte vvti have the same 36-2 wheel so you can borrow those settings.

2) a cleanly done stock setup will spool faster and make more power lower in the rev range, and still be good on top up to a certain power level.
As long as the piping isn't done in a ridiculous fashion it shouldn't introduce too much lag.
I have actually even run a same side intercooler front mount before but I would say just go for the traditional one it can cool better, just keep the bends reasonable.

That being said, depends on what your power goals are and where you want your power.
Like some turbo's wont clear the stock intake very well, that and plug changes and cooler IAT's for higher boost levels are reasons to go FFIM.
A FFIM does cut down on alot of piping but you will loose some torque down low but arguably gain a more punch up top.
I think for a street car running 4-500hp either way would be fine, but as you start going higher the stock intake wont flow as well as a FFIM on top so it makes more sense to change over.

3) I don't have a spec sheet but many are pretty standard. I would think you can find this on the megasquirt forums.
Some members have even posted things like configurations etc.. in their build threads. you shouldn't have to start from scratch on this one, just start looking around in the right places.