ems

iTrader: (1)

She runs, seems like everything is good, just one small timing question. with the jumper I set the timing at about 8 which is kinda max for the distributor going clockwise. When I un hook the jumper the timing light shows around 11-13 and is dancing around there. Idle seems good but I don't want to push anything if I'm reading this wrong. Does that seem right?

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

EXCITING!
Congrats EMS!

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

AliGuru,
I was told I HAD to use a can if I deleted the PCV. Is this not the case?
Can I just somehow add the same type of breather filter I put on the passenger side to the drivers side as well? eliminating the PCV without a can?
There is a line going to the PCV (vacuum?), do i just plug that?
Thank You!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Sounds perfect to me, 8 is the base timing and when you remove the jumper it will go up to the regular advance which is usually right in that range for idle.
it tends to dance around a degree or 2 thats just because of the distributor with the crank sensor is driven by the timing belt so there is a tiny variation. nothing to worry about.

Yeah lots of people say lots of things.. I haven't run a catch can or a PCV in years.
If your motor is really healthy you don't need one if you have filters on both sides and running normal boost. above 20 psi you probably do need one though on most any turbo.
its always a little different but either way you should remove te PCV and use both sides for evacuation. then whether you have filters on it, or run lines to a can is basically preference or if your filters are spitting out oil then the catch can is necessary. on mine the filtrs get a litle oily but I never get any spray or leaks, it all drains back into the valvecovers so I dont run a can at all. And yes you plug the vac line going to the PCV.
read here > https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...catch-can.html

current filter setup

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

EDITED!
OK,
I somehow neglected to follow the link you posted!
What an education in venting. Irrelevant info deleted.
Thank You!.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Didn't see what you posted earlier but yeah I forgot you have gte covers, since the outlets come out of the sides I would remove them, drill them, tap them, run a fitting for a larger hose barb exactly like in my thread, but you will want to then use a hose to go to a catch can, cause on the gte ones coming out the side gravity will just let the oil drip into the plug valley = no good, so you will want a catch can with a filter on the top.

try and get a good one that has 2 attachments for -10an lines and a filter on the top. they are not the ebay generics and are expensive but its what will work best.

SC300T

Ali,
I'm running stock compression on a T60-1 (w/Toyomoto log manifold), but have Crower 270/268 cams and HD valve springs on a ported head on my 92 NA-T SC300. Currently stock SC300 manual trans ECU (US). I really wanted to run to 8000rpm. Is an AEM EMS v2 my best bet? Goals are low boost, 50/50 mix of E85, with a wide rpm range of power, and great top end--- something that could road race. The 270 cams really change the power delivery and move the power band higher. I'm thinking standalone is the only way to get the timing curve to match the cams and to get that high of a rev limit. Thoughts? It would be nice to have around 475whp from 4500-8000rpm on E85.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

ALIGURU!
Hey man, Can i use an IACV from a 98' SC400 on your ALIGURUFFIM?
GAZY is local to me and has a 98'.

Thank You!

(I would happily pay for this info/service, seriously. We are so lucky.)

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Interesting setup you have there. You definitely do not want to keep using your current ecu, you are leaving alot of power behind.
I will just note for mixing that amount of e85 you might need to upgrade lines and more pumps etc... e85 adds alot of complications.
you could realistically hit 500 on a pump setup without e85, but you wouldn't have alot of safety for an overboost condition with high compression.
So it just really depends how you want to build it but I can give you a few general guidelines/ideas.

you could use a 2jzgte jdm ecu and 550cc (pump) or 660-770(50-50 mix of pump e85) injectors with a piggyback but you will not be able to hit more than like 6800 or so with the 6spd supra ecu, there is a way to defeat the rev limiter entirely but then you have no rev limiter and I don't recommend that. also you wont be able to dial in additional timing for that E85 but you probably wont want to anyways on stock compression unless you were running 100% e85 and you would need more injector etc.. this will get complicated fast, but if you plan wisely you can pull it off.

Really to make the best power out of cams and e85 you will want to go with a standalone. you can use an aem v1 even for your setup, an aem v2 would be better though and offer flex fuel support. I would go aem v2 if you can afford it and plumb in the flex fuel sensor into the return line, and then you can run 100% gas all the way up to 100% e85 on the fly.
A good tuner can set that up without much fuss and you will get the most out of your cams and built head, and you can raise the rpm limiter to whatever you want.
if you don't care about flex fuel and can always ensure your mix is 50% (which is hard cause they vary e85 % througout the year so even if doing 50% you will be off at times), or you are ok with a conservative tune that can account for those variations then you can go with the v1. Or also maybe just go 100% e85 if you are filling it up anyways then might as well build the fuel system up a little more and run it pure, then you can use the v1 and wont have any issues on that and save some money. the v2 is a newer unit though and has more support and they can repair them, so it might be worth it. if you have money to spend for extra features, without a doubt go pro-efi, but its quite costly.

Has to be from a non-vvti, so my guess would be no, ask gazi what it came off of usually 98 is vvti.
the vvti does not use the same unit, completely different. I would check ebay the ls400 ones also work.

ems

iTrader: (1)

All seems pretty go with the way she runs, Im finding shes Idling a lil bit high and possibly a touch rich, i have a thought its a tps position thing, but, not really sure. As I approach a stop and let out the clutch shes at 1100 and after a few seconds will drop to 800. Gotta be a compensation from the computer. What cha think? but other than that man NA-T is waaaay better than stock.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Looks great!! I like the one piece aluminum cover and also where you mounted the power steering, nice work.
It is supposed to idle one step higher than idle on the stepper motors until it sees the speed signal drop to zero (usually around 1000-1100), then it winds down to the base idle after a few seconds (yours is at 800 so that seems right also), its so you have better power steering etc until you are actually stopped. Mine does the same thing also perfectly normal and desired, when I set up an aem ems I tune it to do the same thing... cause especially when you clutch in after a strong pull, you can some of that rich mixture left over and if it tried to drop down to 800 right away it may stumble, but if it drops down to 1100 until you get a chance to bring the car to a stop it will normally not stumble at all and feel super smooth, and the stock ecu is the best at being super smooth so that is why it does that.

If your tps was not in the right position, it would never try and idle down. so if yuo see it at one rpm, and then after being stopped for a few seconds it idles down further, that means tps is in correct position and ecu sees the idl pin activated, and thus tried to fine tune your idle as low as it can get it without knock, if you watch the wideband it will start to move around as the ecu drops the idle and fine tunes the fuel and timing for your specific engine.

ems

iTrader: (1)

The cover was from Halon, its one of the older pre carbon fiber ones, still have to finish polishing but you know... engine first. As of now I feel I have been very lucky, but then again I took my time and read the NA-t posts over and over till I felt like I got It nailed down in my head before I started cutting her up. Thanks again ALI sc3 and StudioGeek we will be back in NY at BBK in a few months, Ill give you a heads up.

oSUPRAo

I'll just keep it very simple. What is the cheapest way to make power with an automatic VVTI SC300? As much as possible for as cheap as possible. So far it seems like a JDM 1JZGTE swap is my best bet but I would appreciate any suggestions.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Better get that GTE $#!& out of here... this thread is strictly na-t
Now if you want to strap a turbo to that vvti 2jz-ge and use a piggyback like the aem fic in full intercept mode then I would be happy to give you some pointers. You do have the weakest 2jzge block and auto trans so cost will go up drastically if your goals are more than 350hp.

oSUPRAo

If that's cheaper than I would appreciate pointers. I could live with 350hp for now. What about swapping in a non vvti 2JZGE(bottom end only?) and a tt auto trans?