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^^^ What exact model and when did you buy your AEM V2 ? Assuming your crank and cam sensors are good , there were some V2s that had problem on that stat sync , I got one in the past and had to send it back and after that , never had a problem.
That is great to know. Thanks! I just bought it a couple weeks ago, but I'm thinking it was sitting on a shelf for a long time. Probably was manufactured several years ago. Says REV c, Mod c. SN is 6101-0249. I think I'll call AEM in the morning and see if I can send it to them to test and make sure it has all of the latest.
I realized that originally, 440cc injectors were called for the mod. But realized that I'm going to go stock ignition with distributor. Saw HiPsi post about getting 550s for that setup. Am i screwed for having purchased 440cc?
Also, I just realized HiPsi had everything wired without a turbo kit!? Safe enough to run without one for a while, I'm assuming?
The ignition system you use doesn't matter, the mod runs best out the box with 440's. if you get 550s you will need a fuel controller like HiPsi.
Yes you can run it without a turbo kit, the ecu will adjust. really it doesn't add in much extra fuel till you hit a few psi which you can't do n/a anyways.
Originally Posted by SC300T
Still getting no Stat Sync - No start on Lexus SC300 NA-T with AEM EMS.
Brief background... Trying to install an AEM EMS v2 into a 92 SC300. Originally had MSD 6BTM ignition box which we thought could have been causing the AEM to not stat sync. As a test, I returned the car to stock ignition, and tested---- The car starts and runs with the OEM ECU. As soon as AEM V2 is installed, it will not sync. There are cam counts, but no crank counts, which is surprising since car runs fine on stock ECU. My next step is to see what pins the crank counts would be registered on in the ECU and try to trace that back and see if there is a signal. According to the Lexus repair manual, the ECU is looking for a +5v / -5v pulse on crank. I suppose my next course may be to look at the crank signal on the ECU pins to see if I'm getting the correct pulse. Thinking of buying a PC attached Oscilloscope to look for this waveform. I know its getting pretty technical, but I don't know where else to turn as I'm in Cincinnati OH, and don't have a shop that I know of that has extensive 2JZ + AEM experience. I suppose I could also look at the distributor and the air gap between the sensor and the rotor. Looking for ideas... Anyone? I posted on AEM forums and a tech suggested returning the ignition system to stock, which did not change anything.
Originally Posted by gerrb
^^^ What exact model and when did you buy your AEM V2 ? Assuming your crank and cam sensors are good , there were some V2s that had problem on that stat sync , I got one in the past and had to send it back and after that , never had a problem.
Originally Posted by SC300T
That is great to know. Thanks! I just bought it a couple weeks ago, but I'm thinking it was sitting on a shelf for a long time. Probably was manufactured several years ago. Says REV c, Mod c. SN is 6101-0249. I think I'll call AEM in the morning and see if I can send it to them to test and make sure it has all of the latest.
Yeah I was going to say it could be the aem box, or sometimes its the distributor. the stock ecu is really good at picking up the magentic pickups, so if its starting the car and the aem isn't you could have a distributor with a large gap that the aem doesn't like. sometimes it takes using a different distributor, some people have better luck with the 7m cps cause the gaps are adjustable (but wiring is usually shot), on the distributor the crank sensor is fixed and cannot be moved in closer so you are stuck with whatever your gap is, some are a little better than others. If you aren't getting a crank count I would ask them about the box first like Gerrb mentioned and then as a last resort try a different distributor.
So it looks like I have low voltage coming from the distributor. According to the Lexus manual, lead NE, which is the crank signal should read +5/-5V. It runs fine on the stock ECU, but below is the trace of NE to ground from the distributor. Looks like my signal is around 1.2 to 1.3v peak to peak, which is a fraction of the value in the book if I'm reading it right. See below for the oscilloscope trace. Ali, does this look right? I can get a reman distri
butor on ebay for around $75. Should I get one to see if it changes the voltage output?
That amplitude does seem rather low compared to the literature... but I haven't scoped a working one to give you a real world comparison but that could very well be the reason for the aem having difficulty, its is for sure not as sensitive and is likely not triggering the minimum voltage threshold it needs to see. I have had distributors that gave timing errors and wouldn't work right and then changing them out made the aem happy, so that is why I mentioned it. Since you have no crank count that is making it very suspect. you could have one of those distributors with a relatively larger gap, and the gap between the sensor and the reluctor wheel is proportional to the voltage of the signal, as in the closer the gap the higher the voltage generated.
you can maybe try messing with the crank H sens level and the crank L sense level, I think those are the trigger thresholds... the actual waveform is clean, so if you can change the triggering points maybe you can pick up the cam count.
Otherwise I think a replacement distributor is worth a shot, I dunno about the remanufactured ones I think its sort of luck of the draw with these things.
It is also possible that the magnets in any given distributor can get weakened, usually from misfires in the cap from a bad rotor (my personal theory from one of my failed dizzies that used to work before that) or very high heat can cause the magnets to deteriorate, maybe even when the oil is leaking from the o-ring could affect it also but not positive, either way the strength of the magnet is proportional to the voltage they put out, so maybe a fresh dizzy with new magnets would also help, really it could be a combination of alot of those things with the mileage most of the oem dizzies have by now.
the gte setup is inherently a better setup than the ge setup as its driven off the crank and the magnet seems to be larger (you need a different oil pump plus some wiring to run a gte setup on a ge).
But... if your ge setup is working properly there is no need to mess with it because the ge setup works fine and will get the job done, mostly its an issue with certain standalones.
These standalone were designed to run hall effect sensors, and they have circuits in them to accept VR sensors (like ge and gte stock magnetic sensors) and do a conversion... except they aren't always that great at doing the conversion.
The second distributor is behaving just like the first. I get no crank counts. The AEM refuses to identify the signal. If I switch the cam and crank wires, it will read the cam signal just fine on the crank input. I'm at a loss. Fires up on the stock ECU. Should I be looking at coil packs and 7M CPS? I've gotten so far from where I started, things are getting confusing. Anyone want to try my V2 in their car to see if it works for them? I'm thinking the V2 is to blame.
it might just be the v2, those things can be tough to diagnose, did you ever call aem to verify if the serial number is in the range of the problem units?
the cam signal is easier to pick up, almost always its the crank signal that gives people trouble but that does seem to confirm your wiring is good, but we knew that cause the stock ecu starts the car.
you said you went back to stock ignition so I am assuming stock coil and no MSD 6m box (MSD 6m box can cause problems).
did you keep the noise filter on the stock coil, make sure its plugged in, its attached to the same bracket as the coil and is a grey box connector looking thing with 2 wires.
really not too many things it can be, there is only distributor, wiring, ecu, and maybe the noise filter would help especially with an aftermarket ecu.
question though, that oscilliscope trace, was that at idle or while you were cranking the motor?
is possible it could help to play with the threshold voltage for the crank sensor, cause it looks like you are only hitting about 0.8 volts on the scope, so if you are turning more than 500 rpm's then it will look for 1.49v and that wont happen.
normally the starter gets it going around 400rpm's which should be fine, but if yours is turning faster it could be part of it, still I think you would get some crank count here and there, but maybe play with those thresholds or increase the crank high rpm to be higher like 600 rpm's, whatever is above your starter rpm's if that scope was taken while just going off the starter. If that scope was during idle then we need to know what the voltage is at while starting cause it will be lower, Variable reluctance pickups generally increase in amplitude with rpm, which is why you aren't seeing the full 5v signal like you would if the rpm's were higher.
I honestly dont have time to read thru this entire thread right now to find what I need so I will ask.
I have a 98 and 99 GS300 I want to boost one right now since I have a daily.
I want to make as much power reliably out of the stock motor. I plan to keep the compression stock and get a good tune,
I have had boosted LS/VTEC Hondas w/ high compression so I know its all about the tuning and these motors are superior.
I am thinking to get the Greddy Blue E-manage I believe or maybe the ultimate, or maybe another option like SAFC???
I am not sure what else I need to obtain a reliable car. I am going to get a tranny cooler, arp headstuds and a Comtec head gasket.
I was thinking to get the CX racing kit or maybe driftmotion or piece together something. I want to run a turbo that has good low end and medium power. I am keeping the auto. I was thinking to use a Aristo Fuel pump since im not aiming for huge power. I just want reliable boost and Toyota reliability. I can take my time, no rush I want to do things right.
I am a Tech at Toyota so I am doing all my work except maybe tuning.
You are going to need a lot of time so my suggestion would be to do more research.
The main issue is the tune will have to be dead on due to how crappy the vvti rods are, so there is no room for error.
I don't understand staying with stock compression but going with a cometic headgasket.. just use the stock headgasket then.
I would suggest running a GTE headgasket so you have a little more room for error before you put a rod through the side of the motor.
In fact, you should use gte or ge non vvti pistons and rods if you really want to have a strong setup, otherwise you will have to really watch the tune and keep the boost down.
a greddy emanage or safc with the stock ecu is not going to cut it, they just wont make the tune good enough for what you need.
if you had non vvti pistons and rods, you could get away that but its far from ideal.
what you really need is a standalone to have a chance of keeping the stock vvti shortblock together... but obd2 wont work.
If obd2 is not an issue then hands down just get a standalone and don't even mess with the stock n/a ecu.
the closest thing that will work with the stock ecu is aem fic in intercept mode and you will have a very involved time dialing it in to pull timing etc.. its not the easiest route.
If you want to use the auto, you have to keep the boost down anyways so you could maybe squeeze 400hp out on a good tune RELIABLY, but the whole tuning thing becomes problematic if you don't go standalone. there is a possibility of using a 2jzgte vvti ecu and adapting the harness to work, but the timing is probably too much for a 10.5:1 compression vvti ge block and there is no distributor to dial back the base timing on those motors. This would be a good option if you lowered the compression some and didn't have to worry about obd2.
I would suggest dropping in a 2jzgte vvti swap with the stronger gte auto trans it comes with and calling it a day if you don't need to have obd2 working.
by the time you deal with everything your motor will basically be like that and it will be similar cost wise.
either that or go standalone and keep the boost down.
This is all really opinion based on the mentioned facts, really there are lots of ways to do it but you have to keep it under what your auto trans and rods can handle, and the tune will have to be really good due to the weak rods. everything else is rather straightforward.
ALIGURU!
I hope all is well. I had to take a break from spending on my car but I am back at it. I have your ALIIntake setup all done and my mechanic said he cannot get it past the brake booster to fit it in. We all used the same parts so what might he be experiencing. He said he would send me pictures later. Did you have to modify your brake booster to fit the intake on?
if its hitting the booster the angle on the back was not cut far enough or at the right angle, the whole reason the rear part has that cut and weld is to clear the brake booster.
I wouldn't and did not modify the brake booster. you could dent it some and paint it back up... or go with a smaller one from a truck, but breaking will be slightly affected.
that rear piece of metal they welded on looks pretty thick, if its just interfering a little bit try grinding the offending part out of that rear welded piece at an angle.
If its a lot of interference, then cut and reweld is the proper way.
10-09-16, 04:14 PM
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