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They seem very reputable. I've talked to them on the phone and they've spelled out their procedures. I'll report back after I receive the ECU back and let you all know if it fixed my issue(s).
They seem very reputable. I've talked to them on the phone and they've spelled out their procedures. I'll report back after I receive the ECU back and let you all know if it fixed my issue(s).
Hope the ECU repair solves the problem. If it doesn't, look back in the thread where I say this is shielded wire to the knock sensors. You said the wiring is good, but did you check it back to the ECU? Check that you have good signal back to pin 49 on the 80 pin plug. It will be one of the two clear insulation wires coming into that plug (no50 being the other KS). Also trace the shield on this wire and make sure it is grounded.
Purchased and replaced with OEM knock sensor (expensive) - light did not go out, same code shown
Wiring was okay
Sent in ECU to to Tanin for repair
ECU did not fix the problem.
Anything else anyone can think of? I am tempted to break the CEL LED to pass inspection. My recommendation if your car has code 55, if you know it is not causing any actual issues like mine, dont bother with all this, it's a huge waste of time and money.
That sucks. I wouldn't recommend breaking or removing the CEL bulb, as any competent inspector will know that it's not there at key ON.
Did you do like RXRodger said and follow the shielded wire all the way back to the ECU? If the sensors and ECU have been addressed, some lapse in the connection between the two is the only thing I can think of.
I'm curious, though, you said the code isn't causing any issues. When I had the code 55, it went into limp mode and ran horribly until reset. As far as I know, that's what it's supposed to do when it detects knocking, or thinks it does. I wonder if the lack of limp mode is a clue in your case, i.e., the wrong signal is being detected and/or the wrong code stored?
Purchased and replaced with OEM knock sensor (expensive) - light did not go out, same code shown
Wiring was okay
Sent in ECU to to Tanin for repair
ECU did not fix the problem.
Anything else anyone can think of? I am tempted to break the CEL LED to pass inspection. My recommendation if your car has code 55, if you know it is not causing any actual issues like mine, dont bother with all this, it's a huge waste of time and money.
Ok, go back to my build thread, you did in fact replace the knock sensor with a Toyota OEM Matsu****a knock sensor right? I ran into this same thing, I bought what I thought was a good non oem sensor and kept running into the same code. I replaced the wiring, the plug, and even swapped ECU's and I still had the code. I bought a true Toyota sensor, problem solved. You won't see me recommend genuine OEM stuff on here very much, but when it comes to the sensors, you have to. Just about everything else, waste of money in my opinion. I know you said you bought an expensive OEM sensor so maybe you just got a bad one? Here is a thought, swap the 2 sensors and see if it switches to code 52. If it does, there you go, bad sensor. But, I would ohm out the wire to the rear sensor and ohm out the shielding also before I did all that. And I see on here you said you had to remove the starter to get to No2 but you don't.
And you are wrong on whether to address this code. You really want to get this solved because when it has a knock sensor code, the ECU retards the timing a good 10 degrees and dumps fuel. No power, low mileage. If you don't believe me, hang a timing light on it and tell me what it does.
Edit: Funny, it **** the OEM knock sensor name Matsu****a, that is if I spelled it correctly.
Yes, I ensured I bought a genuine new OEM (I'll juist type Matsu) KS. As you know, they're not cheap. It came brand new in bubble wrap and toyota box with part number etc. I heard it click in when installed and had a friend ohm out the wire while down there (though I think it was just one end - we didnt trace it back to check the wire)
The car does not go into limp mode and/or feel any different whatsoever though I have not checked timing since the code turned on. If I have the energy, the plan is to replace the lower/front KS with the one I pulled out in the event that perhaps it's the other KS? Run the car. If its still there, check the wires, all of them, and finally do as you say and swap KSs and see if I received a defective unit.
When I get to it (hopefully sometime before the end of the year) I'll let you guys know. I hope to save others from all this in the future should they encounter the same issue.
Thanks again to all of you. I will report back when I get working on it.
Originally Posted by RXRodger
Ok, go back to my build thread, you did in fact replace the knock sensor with a Toyota OEM Matsu****a knock sensor right? I ran into this same thing, I bought what I thought was a good non oem sensor and kept running into the same code. I replaced the wiring, the plug, and even swapped ECU's and I still had the code. I bought a true Toyota sensor, problem solved. You won't see me recommend genuine OEM stuff on here very much, but when it comes to the sensors, you have to. Just about everything else, waste of money in my opinion. I know you said you bought an expensive OEM sensor so maybe you just got a bad one? Here is a thought, swap the 2 sensors and see if it switches to code 52. If it does, there you go, bad sensor. But, I would ohm out the wire to the rear sensor and ohm out the shielding also before I did all that. And I see on here you said you had to remove the starter to get to No2 but you don't.
And you are wrong on whether to address this code. You really want to get this solved because when it has a knock sensor code, the ECU retards the timing a good 10 degrees and dumps fuel. No power, low mileage. If you don't believe me, hang a timing light on it and tell me what it does.
Edit: Funny, it **** the OEM knock sensor name Matsu****a, that is if I spelled it correctly.
Something's not right there... Stupid question, but it's gotta be asked: Are you sure you're reading the CEL code correctly? A code 55 without limp mode doesn't make sense to me.
Does anyone know, is the ECU solely responsible for storing and transmitting the CEL code, or does the gauge cluster do some processing of the information?
lol. I understand you asking, but yes, I'm 100% certain. So certain was I that I had two others look at it because I couldn't believe the same code was back after doing the ecu AND the KS
The car doesn't go into limp mode, it simply retards the timing and dumps fuel. I ran a 2 day race with mine doing this earlier this year. I passed the hell out of many cars during those 2 days, but I burned a buttload of fuel doing it and suffered coming out of the hole of every turn. Fuel mileage, loss of power (not tremendous just some loss due to the retarded timing); this is what happens not "limp mode".
The car doesn't go into limp mode, it simply retards the timing and dumps fuel.
Hmm, maybe the 300 and the 400 are different then. Mine without a doubt went into limp mode. The power cut was so severe, I could barely get up the driveway. I was under the impression it was normal for the car.
Hmm, maybe the 300 and the 400 are different then. Mine without a doubt went into limp mode. The power cut was so severe, I could barely get up the driveway. I was under the impression it was normal for the car.
It's in the 80 pin plug and they number them right to left. Edit: If it is like my 92 model the wires coming in will have a clear insulation on them, can't miss which are for the knock sensors. I was thinking of another option for you, if you can unpin the wires and swap them at the ECU you should get a code for the other one.
That's a great idea, I'll have to see if I can disconnect them. I could be wrong, but I swear there is only one wire for KS2 and the one next to it is a blank but I will check again.
I did ohm out the old KS and it showed nothing, so it is dead.Could both the wiring to the KS and the KS itself go bad at once? I did not get a reading from the KS2 port either. Strange
10-06-16, 05:13 PM
R version of the past pages is:
