Rough Idle...Need Help
#16
In Recovery Mode
iTrader: (11)
Sometimes the ECU won't always throw a code if it's starting to go bad. Mine was tossing too much fuel at the motor and flooding it at idle once the car was warm. It only threw a code every now and then, I opened it up and one of the capacitors had leaked all over the corner of my ECU. I don't even remember what code it threw but it was for something I had just replaced which made me suspect the ECU.
There's a vendor on the forum called Tanin Electronix, they also have a website etc. They do ECU repair by replacing all of the capacitors on the ECU and cleaning the motherboard as well as they can depending on how bad the leak was. You basically just send the ECU to them and they repair it and send it back. I sent mine to them it took about a week for them to receive it, fix it and send it back.
You can open up the ECU yourself and inspect it to see if any of the capacitors have leaked. If they have it's pretty obvious as it leaves a bunch of black goop on the motherboard.
Like t2d2 said, cleaning the IACV is also a great idea, it's also possible the MAF has gotten dirty on the car. They are pretty tricky to clean properly though, however there is a DIY on the forum about how to clean them, I successfully managed to clean mine when it gave me problems 2 years ago, it just took me two tries to do it right. If you don't want to tackle that you could try and find a used one, or just bite the bullet and buy an expensive new one.
Also you said you did the Distributor cap, did you replace the distributor rotor as well? When they get old they can get really charred at the end and not transfer a complete spark, so you want to make sure you replace the rotor at the same time you replace the distributor cap.
Also is any smoke coming from the exhaust, does the exhaust smell of fuel once the engine is warm? If yes to both you could have some faulty injectors, or problems with the engine harness. I recently also had that problem as well as a myriad number of other problems with this damn car, and it was causing similar symptoms of stalling out at idle and a rough uncertain idle. I pulled the fuel rail, had the injectors flowed an serviced at an injector shop here in town and got a brand new fuel pressure regulator for the car. This is a bit rarer for the 2jz though as the injectors usually stay in pretty good shape unless the car sits around for a while, but it can still happen like it happened to me. So its something to consider.
And if its none of those things, and not the plugs, wires, or rotor cap then it may be time to douse the car in a healthy spread of e85 and set it on fire to collect the insurance money. This car drives me mad I swear.
There's a vendor on the forum called Tanin Electronix, they also have a website etc. They do ECU repair by replacing all of the capacitors on the ECU and cleaning the motherboard as well as they can depending on how bad the leak was. You basically just send the ECU to them and they repair it and send it back. I sent mine to them it took about a week for them to receive it, fix it and send it back.
You can open up the ECU yourself and inspect it to see if any of the capacitors have leaked. If they have it's pretty obvious as it leaves a bunch of black goop on the motherboard.
Like t2d2 said, cleaning the IACV is also a great idea, it's also possible the MAF has gotten dirty on the car. They are pretty tricky to clean properly though, however there is a DIY on the forum about how to clean them, I successfully managed to clean mine when it gave me problems 2 years ago, it just took me two tries to do it right. If you don't want to tackle that you could try and find a used one, or just bite the bullet and buy an expensive new one.
Also you said you did the Distributor cap, did you replace the distributor rotor as well? When they get old they can get really charred at the end and not transfer a complete spark, so you want to make sure you replace the rotor at the same time you replace the distributor cap.
Also is any smoke coming from the exhaust, does the exhaust smell of fuel once the engine is warm? If yes to both you could have some faulty injectors, or problems with the engine harness. I recently also had that problem as well as a myriad number of other problems with this damn car, and it was causing similar symptoms of stalling out at idle and a rough uncertain idle. I pulled the fuel rail, had the injectors flowed an serviced at an injector shop here in town and got a brand new fuel pressure regulator for the car. This is a bit rarer for the 2jz though as the injectors usually stay in pretty good shape unless the car sits around for a while, but it can still happen like it happened to me. So its something to consider.
And if its none of those things, and not the plugs, wires, or rotor cap then it may be time to douse the car in a healthy spread of e85 and set it on fire to collect the insurance money. This car drives me mad I swear.
#17
Driver
iTrader: (2)
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the distributor had to be replaced. Car would idle rough and after driving a few miles and when I would turn car off and try and restart it wouldnt start had to wait for a few hours. For ECU rebuild check out tanin auto electronix.
#19
Driver School Candidate
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: northcarolina
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ok so I found out it is the ecu. its not sending correct info to the injectors so cylinders 4&5 r not working properly. Heres the kick! The car came from California so it has a different emissions & a different ecu/part number 89661-24322 witch after 2 days I have come to find out that ecu is next to imposible to find & Toyota wants $1200 for a refurb. So after talking to a guy on ebay hes telling me that the us spec ecu will work for my car/part number 89661-24301. He says hes 100% sure that people do it all the time. My question to u guys is has anyone ever ran nto this problem?
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