CD009 Swap With JZ - Calling All Members Who Have Done It!!
02-04-16, 02:34 PM
#106
I would be pulling the motor and trans together wouldn't want to install or remove that beast from underneath, so using the 350z bellhousing is not that bad of an option still... unless you are putting it into an IS300 then no it would probably never come close to fitting.
02-06-16, 06:03 AM
#110
whenever I had to remove the transmission , not unless you have a lift for the whole car , I personally find it easier and faster to take the whole damn engine/transmission out with a cherry picker .. work on the transmission then put the whole thing back. Just too much danger for me working on a heavy part on a very limited / cramped space under the car especially if you are alone. Just my $0.02.
02-09-16, 02:22 PM
#114
I can't speak for SC guys but in our Celsior/LS400 the Adaptor is 5/8" thick putting the transmission mounting hole bosses Into the corner of the firewall/tunnel. Even if this wasn't the case (narrower adaptor) the tranny still hangs down below the car. We hammered as much as possible but physically the trans is too tall for the car. Cut the top off the tunnel and will add TWO INCHES in height. Pics to follow.
Difference in maverick to others is maverick is a quality CNC machined aluminum piece that all of the holes line up. The Collins primary cut was possibly plasma? And the mounting counter bores were cut with dull tooling making it look homemade.
The XAT has excess material around the inner and outer ESPECIALLY BEING 5/8" steel. Completely unnecessary and heavy. Also the bottom holes didn't line up. Only one of the dowels fit, the one that fit was the wrong size (hole too small). We had to cut it a ton to fit to the stock manifolds. (Could just be model specific) and generally looks amateur. Just my opinion. But when the maverick came, with the flywheel (likely made by fidanza) and everything required to mate the JZ - CD. It was awesome.
Only reason we didn't buy Macerick again is they didn't make 1uz -CD adaptor.
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
Difference in maverick to others is maverick is a quality CNC machined aluminum piece that all of the holes line up. The Collins primary cut was possibly plasma? And the mounting counter bores were cut with dull tooling making it look homemade.
The XAT has excess material around the inner and outer ESPECIALLY BEING 5/8" steel. Completely unnecessary and heavy. Also the bottom holes didn't line up. Only one of the dowels fit, the one that fit was the wrong size (hole too small). We had to cut it a ton to fit to the stock manifolds. (Could just be model specific) and generally looks amateur. Just my opinion. But when the maverick came, with the flywheel (likely made by fidanza) and everything required to mate the JZ - CD. It was awesome.
Only reason we didn't buy Macerick again is they didn't make 1uz -CD adaptor.
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
02-09-16, 09:37 PM
#115
the CD trans fits in the SC chassis just fine, it is tight but no hammering required. sounds like the LS400 has a shallower tunnel.
good notes on the maverick kit, i am glad they use an aluminum plate instead, the steel one is extra unnecessary weight.
now whoever comes up with a flywheel solution that makes this transmission not rattle gets my money next. i want to keep my stock exhaust for now and accelerating at low rpms and sitting at idle the rattle is killing me
Marko
good notes on the maverick kit, i am glad they use an aluminum plate instead, the steel one is extra unnecessary weight.
now whoever comes up with a flywheel solution that makes this transmission not rattle gets my money next. i want to keep my stock exhaust for now and accelerating at low rpms and sitting at idle the rattle is killing me
Marko
02-10-16, 11:10 AM
#117
Well I got a smoking deal on a brand new cd009 and I'm emailing Collins about clutch options and measurements. I was sold on this transmission a long time ago I have several friends making daily driven 6-900 hp and they have no issues they just got clutches that were exactly what they needed, no over clamping or unnecessary harsh engagement. Will keep posted
02-10-16, 11:29 AM
#118
Well I got a smoking deal on a brand new cd009 and I'm emailing Collins about clutch options and measurements. I was sold on this transmission a long time ago I have several friends making daily driven 6-900 hp and they have no issues they just got clutches that were exactly what they needed, no over clamping or unnecessary harsh engagement. Will keep posted
02-13-16, 06:27 PM
#120
Important
So, I have just come across something pretty disheartening, and something very relevant to this swap if you are using a high power single clutch kit. I don't know why I hadn't come across it while I was doing my research. Apparently, when upgrading to a stronger pressure plate, and predominantly with single disc kits, you are subjecting your JZ to what is called crankwalk.
For those of you that do not know what crankwalk is, it is when your crankshaft begins to develop play and movement in the front and rear directions. Mostly caused by the extra pressure exerted on the flywheel (and hence crankshaft) of the heavy duty pressure plates used in high power single disc clutch kits. ACT seems to have the worst reputation for causing crankwalk. And that's what Collins supplies with his kits....
Overtime, crankwalk can develop if the crank thrust washers begin to wear down. They wear down, again, from the extra pressure exerted on them from the pressure plate. This pressure is present when the clutch pedal is pressed. The harshest event on the thrust washers is a cold start with the pedal depressed. At this point, all oil has fallen off of the crank, and when the clutch is pressed, it forces the crank against the thrust washer (metal on metal), and then when the crank is forced to rotate while starting, it wears the thrust washer away little by little. Also, it's not good to keep the clutch pedal down at red lights. So, basically avoid using the clutch unless absolutely necessary, and jumper the clutch start switch so that the clutch does not need to be depressed while starting. You can also raise the idle a little bit to make sure that the thrust washers are getting adequate oil when you depress the clutch at stop lights to take off.
Over time, as crankwalk gets more severe, the thrust washers will eventually just drop from their installed location and into the oil pan, and will most likely go for a little ride around your block
The crank will then have much more movement, and the connecting rods will not be firing straight, and will bind. Basically, you need a new short block... If you're lucky, the thrust washers stay in one piece without shredding and allowing little pieces to make their way up to the head...
Multi disc clutches do not contribute much to crankwalk because the pressure plates used are not of such a high clamping capacity. Multi disc clutches add more friction to the setup by using multiple discs against each other. This way, the pressure plate does not to be as strong. Only problem is, the only known multi disc kit for this swap is the SPEC kit, and used with Maverick adapter. SPEC is not the best brand of clutches...
There are a few threads on supraforums discussing crankwalk, as well as this thread here on CL:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...rank-walk.html
I'm pretty upset because had I known this, I would've just stayed auto and got it built... Now I am too vested in this CD009 swap so there is no turning back for me. I am just going to have to keep an eye on the crank and make sure it is not walking. You can do this with a friend and a dial indicator. Setup the dial indicator on the crank pulley (not running lol) and have a friend depress the clutch and measure the movement.
If I start to notice any extra movement, I will start my 1.5JZ build. Hopefully that build doesn't happen until I want it to... At that point, hopefully there are more multi disc kits to choose from..
For those of you that do not know what crankwalk is, it is when your crankshaft begins to develop play and movement in the front and rear directions. Mostly caused by the extra pressure exerted on the flywheel (and hence crankshaft) of the heavy duty pressure plates used in high power single disc clutch kits. ACT seems to have the worst reputation for causing crankwalk. And that's what Collins supplies with his kits....
Overtime, crankwalk can develop if the crank thrust washers begin to wear down. They wear down, again, from the extra pressure exerted on them from the pressure plate. This pressure is present when the clutch pedal is pressed. The harshest event on the thrust washers is a cold start with the pedal depressed. At this point, all oil has fallen off of the crank, and when the clutch is pressed, it forces the crank against the thrust washer (metal on metal), and then when the crank is forced to rotate while starting, it wears the thrust washer away little by little. Also, it's not good to keep the clutch pedal down at red lights. So, basically avoid using the clutch unless absolutely necessary, and jumper the clutch start switch so that the clutch does not need to be depressed while starting. You can also raise the idle a little bit to make sure that the thrust washers are getting adequate oil when you depress the clutch at stop lights to take off.
Over time, as crankwalk gets more severe, the thrust washers will eventually just drop from their installed location and into the oil pan, and will most likely go for a little ride around your block
The crank will then have much more movement, and the connecting rods will not be firing straight, and will bind. Basically, you need a new short block... If you're lucky, the thrust washers stay in one piece without shredding and allowing little pieces to make their way up to the head...Multi disc clutches do not contribute much to crankwalk because the pressure plates used are not of such a high clamping capacity. Multi disc clutches add more friction to the setup by using multiple discs against each other. This way, the pressure plate does not to be as strong. Only problem is, the only known multi disc kit for this swap is the SPEC kit, and used with Maverick adapter. SPEC is not the best brand of clutches...
There are a few threads on supraforums discussing crankwalk, as well as this thread here on CL:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...rank-walk.html
I'm pretty upset because had I known this, I would've just stayed auto and got it built... Now I am too vested in this CD009 swap so there is no turning back for me. I am just going to have to keep an eye on the crank and make sure it is not walking. You can do this with a friend and a dial indicator. Setup the dial indicator on the crank pulley (not running lol) and have a friend depress the clutch and measure the movement.
If I start to notice any extra movement, I will start my 1.5JZ build. Hopefully that build doesn't happen until I want it to... At that point, hopefully there are more multi disc kits to choose from..
