gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Looking at these pictures from Halon's thread .. it seems to be a lot of banging. Not just a bit of banging in there .

I wonder how Maverick did it without banging tunnel... milling moves the trans housing forward I guess. I had a short text messaging exchanges with Collins. Asking for a triple clutch solution with his new adapter plate using the A340 bellhousings. He said he can get the Tilton triple. Got quite a number of A340 bellhousings right now after all so I will explore that option. That is the only option now without any milling or banging and have options for single , twin or triple clutches.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

^ Holy cow, that is quite a bit of banging. Thanks for finding those pics Gerry. I wonder what the clutch setup is then? Is it just an R154 clutch kit? It says that you can utilize the stock JZ flywheel, but does that mean that you need some black magic clutch setup in order to get everything to mate properly?

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Halon,

Did you have to pull the motor to bang in the tunnel? How the heck were you able to fasten those top CD009 bellhousing bolts?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

with the way it looks... any work down there that involves trans mating with the motor .... motor has to be taken out . It will be faster and easier. There will be no space around that tunnel. The whole bell housing occupies the tunnel.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

He definitely has to pull the entire motor / trans assembly as a whole to install it. Or at least he said it was easier doing that then trying to separate the trans from the motor separately. His primary complaint with the swap was how much of a PITA it is to service it, and the "banging" it took to get it to fit.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Crap, OK. Well I guess I am going to have to give this A340 bellhousing solution more consideration. I just hate how ghetto and rigged it looks... And the big gaps in the adapter leaving trans parts open to the elements

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

the gap doesn't expose the internals of the trans... it is just a gap since you did cut the bell housing. The plate which is bolted agains the front of the transmission seals it at the back of the bell housing and the a340 bellhousing seals it around up to the engine rear.

the option of having single , twin or a triple clutch is the best part for me.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

yeah, that's true. Do you think its an issue with the huge access holes that they machined for the slave lines? That could allow gunk to get in I would think. I just don't know which way to go now.. I doubt I will need more than a single disc clutch. But with this a340 bellhousing adapter, it uses a SR20DET disc and a 2JZ pressure plate. It just seems so sketchy and Frankensteined.

It's hard to find an SR20 single for high torque applications. Collins single kit is only good for 420ft lbs. So, if I go with this a340 solution, I would almost have to go double disc clutch setup, which is a lot more expensive. As opposed to going with the other Collins kit single disc clutch setup which was good for 670ft lb.. decisions decisions..

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

lol... with so much option , gives you a headache huh ? Personally with what I have seen or read based on my research so far .. the least work and more clutch options is this A340 adapter plate. This is exactly where Suprastore , the SF vendor is heading too but with an R154 bellhousing. Gaps on the slave lines .. there are solutions.. even V160s, R154s have big openings but there are covers .. so you can make one if it is not available. That is the least concern for me . Having a reliable clutch that will handle my torque without having sounds like someone is playing marbles inside the tranny (rattling) ... is for me , my biggest worry since no one has done it yet with big power on that adapter on a JZ. Those clutches are the big tickets in the setup... pricey. So I want to make sure they are reliable. Lightened aluminum flywheels are based on what I have seen and experienced are always the cause of marble like sounds / rattling ... doesn't absorb well the rotational vibrations of that engine crankshaft. Experienced it with the V160 and R154... and am not dealing with someone playing marbles inside my trans .

For a single disk .. true .. that is the problem. More of piecing a lot of stuff. When you go twins, triple , quads ... it is a flywheel / clutch combo.. not piecing so many parts together.

Always 1) look at long term . I have seen it over and over again, people say "oh .. this is enough for me " then after tasting that boost which is addictive , they throw away their setup and change it .. . 2) consider the obstacles / weaknesses of present solutions.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Marbles - LOL

Yeah, that is good advice. Maybe I just suck it up and spend the extra cash now and have a robust solution for anything I throw at it. I wonder if the double and triple clutches are off the shelf kits, or if it is some black magic that only Collins knows what it comprises of?

Also, in your experience, what is the street driveability of a double disc clutch?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

That's exactly my concern.... clutches since they can be pricey. Experience from other people are important to me . Not all clutches are made same. Not because they are twins or triple or quads , they will be good on the streets. Some are on / off switches. Some are made for streets , endurance or drag applications . So street drivability changes. A lot of factors with clutches that spells its reliability too. Being pricey when you go twins , triple or quad ... being a guinea pig for a new product in such application is a lot of risk which I hate to take. That is why people many times will go to the true and tested product even when it is a lot more expensive just because they know it will surely work for what their intended application was. Saving let's say $2k - $3k for an untested application is at times not even worth it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

so even if you pull the motor you may have to bang out the tunnel, I thought maybe it was just for those trying to do it with the motor in the car.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Would one be able to pound in the tunnel/firewall, then bolt up the easily accessible bolts, and then with a cherry picker, just pull the engine/trans out a tad to give easier access to the top bolts? I understand you would need to undo the motor mounts, and exhaust, and maybe some coolant lines. But I'm thinking that would save from having to completely pull the engine all the way out?

Halon

iTrader: (6)

I'll try to clarify a little. Those pictures that were posted above is when I had pulled my motor, mounted up the transmission with the motor out of the car, and then re-installed that entire motor/trans assembly as one into the car. My memory may be getting the best of me, but I don't think I had to bang the tunnel at all to get it in there as one big assembly. Or maybe just a little bit here and there. So again if memory serves me correct, in those pictures there was none (or very little) banging of the tunnel in those pics.

The real banging came into play when you want to try and get the transmission out without pulling the motor. To remove the trans, I have to tilt the motor as far back as it can tilt. Then with a super long chain of extensions I can get those top bolts, which actually isn't so bad with the motor fully tilted. But then because the clutch/flywheel sit so far back off the motor, you have to slide the trans back so far. But you can see that bellhousing is so big so it's a total pain to slide the trans back and get it out. And if you did not bang your tunnel, you might not get it out. I've banged mine enough that I can get it in and out now with the engine fully tilted back, but it's still a major pain. Next time it comes out I'll probably end up banging more. I think one of the guys used an air hammer or something and he said that helped a lot.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the clarification Halon. What did you do to tilt the motor back? Would one be able to do that without removing anything from it (except probably the downpipe?) Thanks!