Borg Warner s300 rebuild question
10-21-15, 04:32 PM
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Borg Warner s300 rebuild question
Hey, everyone, I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my be s363 turbo for my 1j sc300.
Currently stuck on what's next with where I'm at with taking the turbo apart.
Pictures:
I have the snap-ring removed for one the bearing, here...but I just don't know how to take apart the rest. Everything seems solid.
Currently stuck on what's next with where I'm at with taking the turbo apart.
Pictures:
I have the snap-ring removed for one the bearing, here...but I just don't know how to take apart the rest. Everything seems solid.
10-22-15, 04:54 PM
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So are you saying I should be able to tap the shaft on the "cold side", and it would come out the back of the hot side?
I ended up overnighting a brand new turbo either way, so I'll use this as a spare or sell it
10-22-15, 04:56 PM
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10-22-15, 05:42 PM
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But what if there's nothing to take apart on the hotside by the wheel?
So are you saying I should be able to tap the shaft on the "cold side", and it would come out the back of the hot side?
I ended up overnighting a brand new turbo either way, so I'll use this as a spare or sell it
So are you saying I should be able to tap the shaft on the "cold side", and it would come out the back of the hot side?
I ended up overnighting a brand new turbo either way, so I'll use this as a spare or sell it
10-22-15, 05:51 PM
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After removing the cold side turbine, then yes, I had to remove snap-rings and the journal bearing
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10-23-15, 02:18 PM
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Alright guys, so it FINALLY split apart.
I appreciate all your help.
All I have left is the shaft and hotside wheel, which I understand is one piece.
Since it comes out through the hotside, what'd you guys use to tap it out to also protect the shaft threads?
I appreciate all your help.
All I have left is the shaft and hotside wheel, which I understand is one piece.
Since it comes out through the hotside, what'd you guys use to tap it out to also protect the shaft threads?
10-23-15, 02:26 PM
#10
something made of rubber, like a small rubber mallet. I have a dead blow hammer I use on that kind of stuff.
Or to protect threads you can always thread on the nut flush with the top, and then whack the nut.
keeps threads from being mangled when you have to use a metal hammer but the nut might get destroyed.
Or to protect threads you can always thread on the nut flush with the top, and then whack the nut.
keeps threads from being mangled when you have to use a metal hammer but the nut might get destroyed.
10-23-15, 02:37 PM
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Yeah that'd be a good idea.
I'm progressing with it little by little while I'm at work.
So while I'm away from working on the turbo, I'm bored as hell and just asking for advice so I have a direction when I get home & work on it.
It wiggles around very easily, (since the journal bearings are out), but it seems like there's something stopping it.
I'm progressing with it little by little while I'm at work.
So while I'm away from working on the turbo, I'm bored as hell and just asking for advice so I have a direction when I get home & work on it.
It wiggles around very easily, (since the journal bearings are out), but it seems like there's something stopping it.
10-23-15, 02:57 PM
#13
if its blown then not much to worry about, just dont bang the fins on the housing on the way out.
Its a super popular turbo, just watch a youtube video on it or similar teardown. sometimes its easy to miss a c-clip.
I once tried to tear down a garret turbo that was so rusted/fused together I couldn't even separate the hotside housing and thrashed the thing, so it happens sometimes that things get stuck but sounds like you made it far enough that you are in good shape just proceed carefully and get a dead blow or rubber mallet.
My brother and I have a running joke, we call the dead blow hammer the "suspension adjustment" tool. I have used it to "adjust" (I mean beat on) many suspension components until they are "convinced" (I mean forced) into place. More useful on the toyota trucks and SUV's than the SC as I try not to pound on too many things for the SC, but can't say that I haven't used it there also. It does a good job of delivering force without breaking anything or destroying threads, the mallet tends to kind of jump back at you and doesn't deliver as much force. The husky dead blow hammers at home depot are quite nice and really affordable. Everyone who works on cars should have one, so you don't have to grab the metal hammer and destroy stuff.
Its a super popular turbo, just watch a youtube video on it or similar teardown. sometimes its easy to miss a c-clip.
I once tried to tear down a garret turbo that was so rusted/fused together I couldn't even separate the hotside housing and thrashed the thing, so it happens sometimes that things get stuck but sounds like you made it far enough that you are in good shape just proceed carefully and get a dead blow or rubber mallet.
My brother and I have a running joke, we call the dead blow hammer the "suspension adjustment" tool. I have used it to "adjust" (I mean beat on) many suspension components until they are "convinced" (I mean forced) into place. More useful on the toyota trucks and SUV's than the SC as I try not to pound on too many things for the SC, but can't say that I haven't used it there also. It does a good job of delivering force without breaking anything or destroying threads, the mallet tends to kind of jump back at you and doesn't deliver as much force. The husky dead blow hammers at home depot are quite nice and really affordable. Everyone who works on cars should have one, so you don't have to grab the metal hammer and destroy stuff.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-23-15 at 03:07 PM.
10-23-15, 05:55 PM
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if its blown then not much to worry about, just dont bang the fins on the housing on the way out.
Its a super popular turbo, just watch a youtube video on it or similar teardown. sometimes its easy to miss a c-clip.
I once tried to tear down a garret turbo that was so rusted/fused together I couldn't even separate the hotside housing and thrashed the thing, so it happens sometimes that things get stuck but sounds like you made it far enough that you are in good shape just proceed carefully and get a dead blow or rubber mallet.
My brother and I have a running joke, we call the dead blow hammer the "suspension adjustment" tool. I have used it to "adjust" (I mean beat on) many suspension components until they are "convinced" (I mean forced) into place. More useful on the toyota trucks and SUV's than the SC as I try not to pound on too many things for the SC, but can't say that I haven't used it there also. It does a good job of delivering force without breaking anything or destroying threads, the mallet tends to kind of jump back at you and doesn't deliver as much force. The husky dead blow hammers at home depot are quite nice and really affordable. Everyone who works on cars should have one, so you don't have to grab the metal hammer and destroy stuff.
Its a super popular turbo, just watch a youtube video on it or similar teardown. sometimes its easy to miss a c-clip.
I once tried to tear down a garret turbo that was so rusted/fused together I couldn't even separate the hotside housing and thrashed the thing, so it happens sometimes that things get stuck but sounds like you made it far enough that you are in good shape just proceed carefully and get a dead blow or rubber mallet.
My brother and I have a running joke, we call the dead blow hammer the "suspension adjustment" tool. I have used it to "adjust" (I mean beat on) many suspension components until they are "convinced" (I mean forced) into place. More useful on the toyota trucks and SUV's than the SC as I try not to pound on too many things for the SC, but can't say that I haven't used it there also. It does a good job of delivering force without breaking anything or destroying threads, the mallet tends to kind of jump back at you and doesn't deliver as much force. The husky dead blow hammers at home depot are quite nice and really affordable. Everyone who works on cars should have one, so you don't have to grab the metal hammer and destroy stuff.
So, I got everything torn apart, cleaned everything, and started to assemble things together.
I stopped half way into it because the schwitzer rebuild mentions to use fresh oil on some internals for lubrication. I don't have any in the meantime so I'll finish it up tomorrow.
The new turbo comes in tomorrow!
10-24-15, 09:04 PM
#15
Haha that's awesome.
So, I got everything torn apart, cleaned everything, and started to assemble things together.
I stopped half way into it because the schwitzer rebuild mentions to use fresh oil on some internals for lubrication. I don't have any in the meantime so I'll finish it up tomorrow.
The new turbo comes in tomorrow!
So, I got everything torn apart, cleaned everything, and started to assemble things together.
I stopped half way into it because the schwitzer rebuild mentions to use fresh oil on some internals for lubrication. I don't have any in the meantime so I'll finish it up tomorrow.
The new turbo comes in tomorrow!
Did your kit come with the proper size front compressor cover gasket? Mine was far too large and loose.