When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
yeah I agree with gerrb, the light may have a couple o2 sensor codes and if those have failed they could easily be the culprit on these ecu's. sometiems they have failed and there is no code so if I am having issues like that and its been alot of miles or unknown miles since the last change, then go ahead and do the o2 sensors. also check to see that the wires are good and not burnt up from touching the exhaust or something.
your emissions definitely point to a rich fuel mixture and unless you have a 2jzgte swap hiding under there with some bpu mods and no cats you likely have an issue. its interesting nox is not listed on the chart.
if its starting easy that sort of hurts the injector conclusion, so start with the cel. if you replace the bulb and the CEL still does not come on when you first put key in and start it, then that is a sign of a damaged ecu and should be replaced as per the toyota manual.
Alright guys! So I was able to swap a bulb out for the CEL bulb with only one backlight bulb on the cluster stop working! The CEL bulb had been removed and popped into the Trac off socket (my SC doesn't even have trac so the PO must have put it there) I jumped TE1 and E1 and got code 13. RPM signal. Timing belt looks new, I doubt it jumped a tooth. others are saying it could be something to do with the cam sensors. Not so much the sensor itself as they rarely go bad especially at lower mileage, but the electrical harnesses that live neighbor to the serpentine belt and the T belt. I looked at the two cam sensor harness and they were dirty, but they didn't show any signs of major damage. There was a little bit of rubbing on the outside but not to the extent of touching any wires on the inside. EDIT: I located a mouse nest (along with a lot of rodent crap and leaves and stuff) by the starter, way down in the middle of the V. I used some baling wire, made a hook and pulled it out. I wonder if the mouse ate some wires...
And also the ECU has been rebuilt.
Would a faulty cam sensor/camsensor signal cause the car to run rich? because it is running richer than the winners of the powerball.
I went out and looked again to see if the cam sensor wires had been frayed at all. Sure enough, it was easier to see in the dark (with a flashlight of course) that the drivers side (most common culprit for fraying wires) has some revealed wiring. This open portion is right by the serpentine belt as well. I included a pic to see what you guys think.
Now that I think about it, the timing belt looks brand new which means it was replaced. There are random nuts and screws missing from various parts of the engines. Some hack job mechanic probably performed the service, or maybe even the owner.
wow wish I could point you out to a direct fix I guess I better get mine on the road after my cable and plugs change. she starts right up but I have so busted vac hose to sort out. I did noticed prior to plug and cable replacement my RPM were low and hit a wall so my best guess will be some electrical connection or injector.
May the fix be simple. Not sensors nor ECU related.
Did you check the accelerator cable? You have to remove a plastic cover right in the middle of the engine (if it was TRAC fitted, that could be read, IDK how it looks in models without TRAC), close to the L logo. Then you should see if the cable is properly tensioned or loose.
May the fix be simple. Not sensors nor ECU related.
Did you check the accelerator cable? You have to remove a plastic cover right in the middle of the engine (if it was TRAC fitted, that could be read, IDK how it looks in models without TRAC), close to the L logo. Then you should see if the cable is properly tensioned or loose.
Yes, I have tightened every cable there is to tighten. Thanks for the suggestion.
The way I see this is code 13 is 100% one of these two things. Timing belt skipped a tooth, or the cam sensor wiring has been damaged somewhere along the line. Correct me if I'm wrong. I cannot find any frayed wires so my best guess is that the PO (or mechanic that replaced the T-belt) didn't install it at TDC upon installation. The timing belt may be off a tooth or 3...but it runs good!
Any other ideas before I send to mechanic to diagnose? This can be a pricey diagnosis.
So I gave in and gave it to a mechanic. I got the complete diagnostic for about 50 bucks instead of 100 because it pays to have connections...but anyways.
So they found a few small things. Lacerated spark plug wire(s), has a slight miss so there is the reason for that, but that has nothing to do with the code.
The timing belt is off by one tooth on each cam. So I believe the PO installed the Timing belt incorrectly.
This was my original suspicion. Ignorant installer. SO needless to say, for 750 bucks I'm getting a new timing belt and tensioner!
UPDATE: Problem is fixed. Finally had the mechanic just knock it out. Both cams were off a tooth or two which points to an oblivious DIY'er that installed it that way. A new tensioner and T belt along with almost $750, the car runs great. Since I don't need emissions to register/drive a car where I live, I see no need to take the test. Who knows, I may just for grins and giggles. Check engine light has not reappeared so everything is working fine now. Floor that bad boy and it rides all the way up for the first time in 3 years.
Thanks guys!
UPDATE: 09/29/2020
Just to assist for whomever is having issues similar to what I mentioned in this thread. I purchased a 93 SC400 with 97k original miles. Timing belt installed less than a yr ago, and the car had almost 2k miles since the surgery. I experienced issues very closely to what my other SC experienced. I had a hunch, and 2 for 2, same thing. Either was installed by AT LEAST 2 teeth off TDC or skipped a few teeth due to a bad Tensioner. Please utilize a reputable shop when getting these SC4 timing belts done!! Also, Check and see if your cams line up W/ TDC before advanced troubleshooting, and scratching your head for a period of time. T-belt jobs on these cars can be rough, which is the reason why some do not get it right in some cases.
I have frayed a wire on my first timing belt job on a 2uz, car stopped about half way down the street.
just had to replace the harness and all was good, what happens is when putting the fan bracket back on, you have to remember to put the cam harness behind the bracket. what alot of first timers do is put the brackets back on then route the wire, and it leaves just enough room to wiggle and rub on the belt.
your doesn't look like it wore by the cam belt, yours looks like someone pulled on the wires cause they couldn't get the connector off right.
its pretty bad placement and common to happen on the first time... but the timing being off several teeth is bad, no excuse for that, and nuts and bolts loose are also bad, that must have been a sloppy job. glad you got it sorted must be completely different now.
12-16-15, 08:29 AM
Floor that bad boy and it rides all the way up for the first time in 3 years. 
