timing is all over the place
08-30-15, 08:25 PM
#1
timing is all over the place
First time trying a timing gun but here are the steps I followed.
1. I put a paper clip into the diagnosis port to cross the 2 pins
2. connected gun to battery
3. put the clamp onto cyl #1 (marked on distributor)
4. loosen the distributor nut and start car
I've noticed that more often than not I see 2 white lines on the crank pully. Standing on the passenger fender side and looking down at the pully the 2 lines are on the very bottom casting mark and about 1/2 inch below that for the second line.
Some tines I see only one line and it will go no further higher than the top mark but will travel further down. Turning the distributor clockwise (facing distributor head on while turning) when at the maximum the one timing line will almost get to the top timing mark.
Other times there is no visible line, even when the wires have not moved.
*This all started because the car has very slight (stuttering, backfiring, missing) yet it comes and goes. Other times the car is hardly able to drive at all within minutes of running fine.
I have changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires, vacuum lines, ecu, thermostat, yet this gremlin still persists, and there are no codes being thrown.
What is the best approach to solve a 'floating' timing mark?
-- replace distributor, coil, etc...
1. I put a paper clip into the diagnosis port to cross the 2 pins
2. connected gun to battery
3. put the clamp onto cyl #1 (marked on distributor)
4. loosen the distributor nut and start car
I've noticed that more often than not I see 2 white lines on the crank pully. Standing on the passenger fender side and looking down at the pully the 2 lines are on the very bottom casting mark and about 1/2 inch below that for the second line.
Some tines I see only one line and it will go no further higher than the top mark but will travel further down. Turning the distributor clockwise (facing distributor head on while turning) when at the maximum the one timing line will almost get to the top timing mark.
Other times there is no visible line, even when the wires have not moved.
*This all started because the car has very slight (stuttering, backfiring, missing) yet it comes and goes. Other times the car is hardly able to drive at all within minutes of running fine.
I have changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires, vacuum lines, ecu, thermostat, yet this gremlin still persists, and there are no codes being thrown.
What is the best approach to solve a 'floating' timing mark?
-- replace distributor, coil, etc...
08-31-15, 10:02 AM
#2
whats the timing floating around, is it around 10 degrees.
are you hearing a change in how the engine runs when you put in the jumper?
you should hear a change when you put in the jumper as it lowers to base timing, if you don't then you have a tps issue.
its also possible the distributor was inserted a tooth off, then the timing wont come into the right range until you remove and restab it. if the same white line is jumping around, then you have a misfire of some kind of a worn/wobbly crank pulley. sometimes the center rubber section will want to seperate and the timing goes all over the place right before it fails and separates completely. more commong with older mileage but can happen to any of the 2jz or 1uz crank pulleys, especially if it was installed without the right tool. if you use a chain tool on these to hold the pulley still it will put stress on the rubber as you torque it, the proper tool bolts to the center solid part of the crank pulley allowing you to torque it without damage.
are you hearing a change in how the engine runs when you put in the jumper?
you should hear a change when you put in the jumper as it lowers to base timing, if you don't then you have a tps issue.
its also possible the distributor was inserted a tooth off, then the timing wont come into the right range until you remove and restab it. if the same white line is jumping around, then you have a misfire of some kind of a worn/wobbly crank pulley. sometimes the center rubber section will want to seperate and the timing goes all over the place right before it fails and separates completely. more commong with older mileage but can happen to any of the 2jz or 1uz crank pulleys, especially if it was installed without the right tool. if you use a chain tool on these to hold the pulley still it will put stress on the rubber as you torque it, the proper tool bolts to the center solid part of the crank pulley allowing you to torque it without damage.
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NathanDorn
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
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