Car won't start, CEL 24 and 31..
06-07-15, 07:19 AM
#1
Car won't start, CEL 24 and 31..
Just picked up a parts car or potential project car with some nice goodies but it doesn't start and these are the two codes it's throwing. 24 for the IAT Sensor, and 31 which is Air Flow Meter Signal(assuming it's the MAF?). Will these really prevent this beast from firing up?
New battery, new spark plugs and wires. Checked distributor cap and rotor and they look fine. I'm really trying to get this car started today, it sounds sooo close to firing up. I'm in the process of the 12v fuel mod right now, after that I'm going to check the ECU for leaking capacitors. I'm not sure how to proceed with the IAT/MAF issue. The car has Injen Intake...which from what I've read on here isn't an upgrade it's actually a downgrade and I tried starting it without the MAF connected but no change.
At 190K I really don't want to put much work into it, I bought it for parts, but I can take the parts and swap them with my current car parts and hopefully sell a running SC instead of one that doesn't start for cheap. It looks really clean, no rust underneath. The previous owner said he thought it might be a crankshaft sensor, but I don't have any codes to support that. I also don't want to order a bunch of parts that may or may not fix the problem. Any help appreciated.
New battery, new spark plugs and wires. Checked distributor cap and rotor and they look fine. I'm really trying to get this car started today, it sounds sooo close to firing up. I'm in the process of the 12v fuel mod right now, after that I'm going to check the ECU for leaking capacitors. I'm not sure how to proceed with the IAT/MAF issue. The car has Injen Intake...which from what I've read on here isn't an upgrade it's actually a downgrade and I tried starting it without the MAF connected but no change.
At 190K I really don't want to put much work into it, I bought it for parts, but I can take the parts and swap them with my current car parts and hopefully sell a running SC instead of one that doesn't start for cheap. It looks really clean, no rust underneath. The previous owner said he thought it might be a crankshaft sensor, but I don't have any codes to support that. I also don't want to order a bunch of parts that may or may not fix the problem. Any help appreciated.
06-07-15, 07:52 AM
#3
Rookie
Them two codes shouldn't keep it from starting but make it run rough. Check for spark and fuel, if no spark check your igniters and so one. What size and brand are the rims on it. I seen your other post and like them rims.
06-07-15, 08:08 AM
#4
Um I believe they are HP Racing Evo 18's with good tires. I'm not 100% sure only one has a center cap I gotta take a better look. They look kinda beat up, but I'm going to steam clean them soon and see how they clean up. The car has a lot of little goodies though, for $1500 I think I did pretty good. The entire car is also Dynamatted.
06-07-15, 10:05 AM
#5
While checking ignition coil the clip in the back snapped and crumbled into pieces....now I can't plug it back in. Just a minute earlier the car started, smoke came out the pipes, then it died. Now that Sewell is gone I can't find the ignition parts diagrams for a new wire... Anyone know where parts diagrams are? Carson Toyota is under maintenance at the moment.
06-07-15, 01:22 PM
#6
I responded to your other thread, but... Is Carson's site ever not under maintenance? Unless I'm getting my sites mixed up, it's been perpetually under maintenance every time I've looked for more than a year now. I've never bought from them as a result, despite all the good reviews. Having to get a hold of a live person just to do my pre-purchase homework isn't appealing.
06-07-15, 02:30 PM
#7
I responded to your other thread, but... Is Carson's site ever not under maintenance? Unless I'm getting my sites mixed up, it's been perpetually under maintenance every time I've looked for more than a year now. I've never bought from them as a result, despite all the good reviews. Having to get a hold of a live person just to do my pre-purchase homework isn't appealing.
Trending Topics
06-28-15, 05:53 PM
#8
Ok so I haven't really gotten anywhere with the car, but I'm thinking it at some point overheated before it stopped running.
Coils are good. Distributor cap and rotor replaced. Spark plugs good, wires good. 12V fuel mod, I can hear it click on. Checked ECU no signs of failure, but at 20 years and 200K miles I'm not ruling it out(in fact I'm trying to borrow a 95 400 ECU if you have one let me know). Still Cell 24 and 31. Crank sensor good, not sure about cam sensors yet I haven't gotten to them.
But this is what's bothering me, the car has a lot of coolant all over the place. I'm 99% sure it's coming from the thermostat housing. The radiator looks brand new. So with the coolant everywhere and the leak not being fixed I think the previous owner either overheated the car or something of that nature and put in a new radiator thinking it was the problem.
Looking at the timing belt and it looks pretty old, but I know the timing belt was done at 90K so 110K on a replacement isn't out of the norm as my other SC hit 125 before being replaced and I've read others doing 180K on original belts. However if the car overheated, is it possible the belt jumped a tooth or a few of them? Considering all the coolant that is apparently everywhere it's possible coolant got onto the timing belt and it slipped? If so would the car be giving me this symptom?
Oil in the car is clean, and was done about 2K miles prior to the mileage on the dash judging the Meineke sticker on the window so I don't think it's a blown head gasket and if it was the car would still start just overheat quick no?
Anyway another week of work before I can tinker with it. If anyone has a working 95 ECU I can borrow I can leave a deposit, cover shipping, etc...
Coils are good. Distributor cap and rotor replaced. Spark plugs good, wires good. 12V fuel mod, I can hear it click on. Checked ECU no signs of failure, but at 20 years and 200K miles I'm not ruling it out(in fact I'm trying to borrow a 95 400 ECU if you have one let me know). Still Cell 24 and 31. Crank sensor good, not sure about cam sensors yet I haven't gotten to them.
But this is what's bothering me, the car has a lot of coolant all over the place. I'm 99% sure it's coming from the thermostat housing. The radiator looks brand new. So with the coolant everywhere and the leak not being fixed I think the previous owner either overheated the car or something of that nature and put in a new radiator thinking it was the problem.
Looking at the timing belt and it looks pretty old, but I know the timing belt was done at 90K so 110K on a replacement isn't out of the norm as my other SC hit 125 before being replaced and I've read others doing 180K on original belts. However if the car overheated, is it possible the belt jumped a tooth or a few of them? Considering all the coolant that is apparently everywhere it's possible coolant got onto the timing belt and it slipped? If so would the car be giving me this symptom?
Oil in the car is clean, and was done about 2K miles prior to the mileage on the dash judging the Meineke sticker on the window so I don't think it's a blown head gasket and if it was the car would still start just overheat quick no?
Anyway another week of work before I can tinker with it. If anyone has a working 95 ECU I can borrow I can leave a deposit, cover shipping, etc...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Klaus
SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)
2
07-09-10 04:16 PM