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ordering new door weatherstripping, need to confirm part #s
I'm putting an order together with new-ish CL vendor MyLparts.com. Matt has been helping me with some part numbers and prices, but I figured it would be worth posting pictures here to see if anyone can identify what's what. It's so difficult to tell what some of these layered trim pieces are on the black & white schematic sketches.
Nothing much turned up in searches, so hopefully confirming part numbers will help other people with future maintenance. I've used the pen as a pointer to highlight sections that are torn and/or cracked.
Just behind the driver's mirror, most likely #67485F (WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR GLASS GUIDE, No.1.)? That or #67432 (GUIDE, FRONT DOOR WINDOW, FRONT LEFT. GUIDE), which are impossible to differentiate in the schematic. However, on third thought, I think it's actually part of the #67864F overall upper weatherstrip. Nope, it's actually the full inner assembly, the nearly $900+ #75702!
I always wondered what that little gap is at the bottom/back edge of the mirror's mounting plate. While looking at weatherstripping in more detail, I finally compared it to the pass. mirror and realized a chunk is broken off the corner. Too bad I just sold my spare...
Driver side tall vertical piece at the rearward portion of the door, with the long slit for the window to travel between. Most likely #67487? Er, I think it's part of the #67864F overall upper weatherstrip ($120).
Passenger side tall vertical piece at the rearward portion of the door, with the long slit for the window to travel between. Most likely #67486? This one is definitely the inner strip that's torn, not the overall outer one like the driver's side. Which, unfortunately, means it's part of the $900+ full inner assembly, #75701.
#68162-24010 - Driver's side belt line moulding.
My driver's side belt line moulding is so worn, one of the attachment points is loose and the screw has scratched the window glass. I'm hoping the whole mount isn't broken off... The passenger side clip looks different, but it's difficult to see down there in the channel without having removed everything yet. If you look at where the pen is above, that's pushing the loose spot of the moulding out over the window's path.
I can confirm the part number 68161-24010 as corresponding to the same part you are referencing for the passenger side. I did that recently. Here's what I have from my own restoration notes under that P/N: "SC300 Pass Side RH front door glass weatherstrip. *Goes on the lower section of the passenger window". Given the similarly of the LH part number I do think you're good there. I did that one a couple of years ago but do not have the P/N handy, sorry.
The other P/N's I've never confirmed before-- never had to do those on my vehicle.
Try looking them up in both Trademotion systems for Carson Toyota and Pembroke Pines Lexus. Either dealer should have visual diagrams available showing all of these.
Thanks, Kahn. That was actually one of the few that I was confident in. It looks like they're pretty easy to replace?
I spoke with Matt this morning to clarify a few points of confusion and put the order in. I just got the two belt line mouldings for now, along with various other bits and pieces, as those two are very much in need of replacement. I've got a replacement driver's door glass arriving this week. Mine is pretty scratched up from rocks or something getting into the moulding over the years. Plus, one of the scratches is right where the belt line clip is broken away from the panel, allowing the screw to hit the glass. So, I'll replace those along with the new glass and be able to take a closer look at all the other weatherstripping. It may be in good enough shape to hold off on the other pieces until finding a suitable parts car.
I looked up schematics from three different sources, but they're all the same thing and require a lot of guesswork for identifying the layered weatherstrip. Just when you're 99% sure you've got it figured out, you realize it might also match another piece... Those tall vertical guides at the back edge of the glass, I thought I had found on the schematic only to be told those are actually down in the door frame. In actuality, what I was looking at on the car is part of the $900+ overall inner trim piece, not the outer pieces.
Thanks, Kahn. That was actually one of the few that I was confident in. It looks like they're pretty easy to replace?
Ehhhhhhhhhhh....
Yes... and no. You take off the inner door panels and the easy to remove top rubber trim piece that blocks these rubber strips you are replacing. However, you have to loosen several bolts keeping the glass in place in order to get to the easy to lose screws that hold the strips to the door frame. And two of those screws it will seem near impossible to get to. You have to scrunch your screwdriver right up onto the top of the glass to access them.
You must remove the bolts aligning the window channel track on the lock assembly side of the door such that you can pull the track up and partly out of the way. This should allow the window to shift around a bit. I may be forgetting another bolt or two elsewhere that must be loosened but that's all that is needed, I think. The barely-there clearance you'll give yourself by doing this will work, but will be extremely frustrating to work with all to get to two tiny screws.
It can be done without taking the glass out but it's very obvious that Toyota expects the glass to be removed entirely in their procedure in order to replace these strips. If you are replacing window glass anyway, this is good. Take the glass out and then replace the rubber strip on that side BEFORE installing the new glass onto your regulator. Whether you do the same to the other side or not for installation is really something you must determine for yourself.
If I had been undertaking a full restoration in a garage with no time or space constraints I'd remove the windows to replace these items.
*Also-- be prepared ahead of time and purchase 3-4 new factory bolts for the window track closest to the lock actuator assembly. Why? Because 1-2 of them are likely to be torqued down so hard from the factory that you will probably strip them trying to take them out with a large phillips bit in a drill.
Purchase a Craftsman "Deck-Out Screw and Bolt Remover" kit NOW to have on hand if this occurs. It doesn't cost much and will remedy this problem quickly if it happens. If you're not familiar with how it works, read the instructions carefully before proceeding. You'll destroy the stubborn window track bolt getting it out but you won't have the problem again afterward.
Originally Posted by t2d2
I spoke with Matt this morning to clarify a few points of confusion and put the order in. I just got the two belt line mouldings for now, along with various other bits and pieces, as those two are very much in need of replacement. I've got a replacement driver's door glass arriving this week. Mine is pretty scratched up from rocks or something getting into the moulding over the years. Plus, one of the scratches is right where the belt line clip is broken away from the panel, allowing the screw to hit the glass. So, I'll replace those along with the new glass and be able to take a closer look at all the other weatherstripping. It may be in good enough shape to hold off on the other pieces until finding a suitable parts car.
This is a good call. Not all the rubber pieces on 20+ year old SC's go bad as quickly as others do. Sorry to hear you've got to replace your window glass though.
Aside, that glass is still available from Toyota? Do you happen to have the part numbers you can post here?
Originally Posted by t2d2
I looked up schematics from three different sources, but they're all the same thing and require a lot of guesswork for identifying the layered weatherstrip. Just when you're 99% sure you've got it figured out, you realize it might also match another piece... Those tall vertical guides at the back edge of the glass, I thought I had found on the schematic only to be told those are actually down in the door frame. In actuality, what I was looking at on the car is part of the $900+ overall inner trim piece, not the outer pieces.
It can be very frustrating, can't it? The schematics available from most dealers are unfortunately confusing like this and over-simplified. They used to come from microfiche film scans (from original Toyota paper parts catalogues) which were very detailed but those have been phased out from the ordering system over time.
I've used a couple of foreign EPCs with greater detail but it's easier to find this for an MKIV Supra or Soarer than for an SC series.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 05-27-15 at 03:12 PM.
Reason: Added information
As soon as I posted that, I was like, "I just lobbed a slow pitch for him..." I should have said, they seem pretty easy to replace once the window is out, anyway? Getting the window out does seem like a PITA.
I didn't check with Toyota for new OEM glass. Speedy Glass quoted me $118, available next day, and Safelite scoured the country and couldn't find anything. Everyone said the same thing, that the deep, long scratches cannot be repaired. I'll likely tint the windows soon, so it made sense to replace that one now and do everything at once, since the belt mouldings are badly in need.
*Also-- be prepared ahead of time and purchase 3-4 new factory bolts for the window track closest to the lock actuator assembly. Why? Because 1-2 of them are likely to be torqued down so hard from the factory that you will probably strip them trying to take them out with a large phillips bit in a drill.
Purchase a Craftsman "Deck-Out Screw and Bolt Remover" kit NOW to have on hand if this occurs. It doesn't cost much and will remedy this problem quickly if it happens. If you're not familiar with how it works, read the instructions carefully before proceeding. You'll destroy the stubborn window track bolt getting it out but you won't have the problem again afterward.
That doesn't sound fun... I looked up the Cratfsman kit and the pics just look like a typical bolt extractor, no? Are the window track bolts something that are unlikely to be matched up at a hardware store? I haven't received shipping notification from myLParts.com yet, so maybe I can still sneak something into the order...
Originally Posted by aliga
let me know if you need any of these peices, i have them from a 97
Thanks, I'll PM you once I know the condition of the rest of the stuff.
As soon as I posted that, I was like, "I just lobbed a slow pitch for him..." I should have said, they seem pretty easy to replace once the window is out, anyway? Getting the window out does seem like a PITA.
Hahaha! Oh man... you know me: I tend to write the equivalent of an encyclopedia subsection for some of my responses. But always in hopes that being very detailed will help someone have an easier time than I did. You had me laughing out loud when I read that
Originally Posted by t2d2
I didn't check with Toyota for new OEM glass. Speedy Glass quoted me $118, available next day, and Safelite scoured the country and couldn't find anything. Everyone said the same thing, that the deep, long scratches cannot be repaired. I'll likely tint the windows soon, so it made sense to replace that one now and do everything at once, since the belt mouldings are badly in need.
Good plan, yes. Get it replaced now and forget about it. Thanks for the info. I had my windshield glass replaced with a PPG branded sheet in 2012. Front door glass is very good to have available from someone on the aftermarket. What I learned during that shop visit was that, to my knowledge, no aftermarket company (at least then) makes *rear* windscreen glass. That has to be sourced from Lexus. I hope that has changed since then. No idea about quarter glass either.
Originally Posted by t2d2
That doesn't sound fun... I looked up the Cratfsman kit and the pics just look like a typical bolt extractor, no? Are the window track bolts something that are unlikely to be matched up at a hardware store? I haven't received shipping notification from myLParts.com yet, so maybe I can still sneak something into the order...
It's not fun but once I had the kit in hand it was mostly a cinch to get through the rest of the project. If you're familiar with typical bolt extraction kits then yes, it's exactly the same. Use what works best for you if it becomes necessary. I just recommend having a kit handy before you begin your door project so as not to lose time.
I don't know exactly what size, thread and pitch those bolts are offhand but I always like to pick up easy to source Toyota original matching bolts, nuts, etc. to keep things more predictable for future re-access.
Sounds like you're fine though. There should not be any other surprises to this. It's just going to be annoying replacing the door sill rubber on the side you don't remove the window from (if decide to do it that way). You'll understand how tempting it is once you get there and loosen the rear track.
Hahaha! Oh man... you know me: I tend to write the equivalent of an encyclopedia subsection for some of my responses. But always in hopes that being very detailed will help someone have an easier time than I did.
Too much information is always better than not enough! Unless it's of the "kiss and tell" variety with the wrong people...
It looks like Matt will be able to add the window track bolts to the order. Thanks for the heads up on that. Bad news is the order hasn't shipped yet and I'm not sure what the time table is. The new window arrives today (it got ahead of schedule so conveniently sat for three days at a distribution center a couple hours away; I went with a used one that ironically was exactly half the price of the new quote) so I'll have to impatiently wait on the rest of it.
I've done more bolt extracting than I care to remember. As long as they aren't super difficult to get at straight on, I don't anticipate that being a deal breaker. I'll do the driver's side first, since the glass has to go and that belt moulding is in dire need of replacement, and use that experience to determine how best to tackle the passenger side. I just hope loosening the window tracks isn't as painful as accessing the lock sensor was...
Too much information is always better than not enough! Unless it's of the "kiss and tell" variety with the wrong people....
^^ I agree! But being more concise is also a virtue if it conveys the same.
Loosening the rear window track is part of the job of installing the ghastly lock actuator assembly as you know. It's not as difficult to do to weatherstrip as it is to replace that part but it IS a pain to do nonetheless. I won't lie to you there. Both jobs are annoying but the lock assembly easily takes the cake.
And you may get lucky with your rear track bolts *not* being so tight they could potentially strip. I just recommend being prepared in case it happens. They're on there very tight regardless.
Loosening the rear window track is part of the job of installing the ghastly lock actuator assembly as you know.
I've always wondered why they don't make a removable skin to the door's inner frame, or at the very least a sizable access panel wherever key components are located. I wouldn't think it would make that much of a difference structurally, but maybe there are regulations prohibiting it? It sure would make life a million times easier when working on that stuff.
The "new" glass arrived today ... now just to wait semi-patiently for the belt line moulding. There are a couple tiny specks of road tar or something I still need to get off, but otherwise it appears to be free of any damage. I don't want to leave those specks on there and have them scrape up my precious new mouldings!
You take off the inner door panels and the easy to remove top rubber trim piece that blocks these rubber strips you are replacing. However, you have to loosen several bolts keeping the glass in place in order to get to the easy to lose screws that hold the strips to the door frame. And two of those screws it will seem near impossible to get to. You have to scrunch your screwdriver right up onto the top of the glass to access them.
I got started on it tonight. My belt moulding came out without messing with the glass, by removing the full chrome outer trim piece. Of course, I need to remove the glass to replace it, but at least now I know the pass. side moulding can be replaced that way. You were definitely right about the two back screws on the moulding being difficult, if not impossible, to access with the window in place, though.
I thought only one of the belt line moulding screw bosses was broken, but it turned out two were. Has anyone tried fixing them? I can't tell what they were fastened to the pegs with. It seems too soft to have been spot welded. I'm guessing epoxy or a less permanent glue would work? It sort of looks like a hot glue, but I don't want them coming loose again and allowing the screw head to scratch the glass. I'm CLR'ing them tonight to get some of the rust off, as the two loose ones were in pretty bad shape.
Inside view of the outer chrome trim. The loose boss should be mounted to the tabs like the other circled one.
Good call on the window guide screws. Mine had been worked on previously and were pretty stripped, although I was able to get them out carefully with a big phillips. I've got new ones to replace them.
I got started on it tonight. My belt moulding came out without messing with the glass, by removing the full chrome outer trim piece. Of course, I need to remove the glass to replace it, but at least now I know the pass. side moulding can be replaced that way. You were definitely right about the two back screws on the moulding being difficult, if not impossible, to access with the window in place, though.
That's an extra step I have yet to try. Sounds like you hit a snag but that it will make the process easier. Yes, those screws are POSSIBLE to get out with the window in place (loosened and shifted around a bit) but it is a major pain you will loathe doing. I've done it twice so far and that's enough without removing the windows if I ever had to again.
Originally Posted by t2d2
I thought only one of the belt line moulding screw bosses was broken, but it turned out two were. Has anyone tried fixing them? I can't tell what they were fastened to the pegs with. It seems too soft to have been spot welded. I'm guessing epoxy or a less permanent glue would work? It sort of looks like a hot glue, but I don't want them coming loose again and allowing the screw head to scratch the glass. I'm CLR'ing them tonight to get some of the rust off, as the two loose ones were in pretty bad shape.
Those look spot-welded from the picture you've posted. I would use a heavy duty marine epoxy if that seems like it was never spot-welded. I've never seen inside that trim panel before. If it looks like a service part then I would not use any type of permanent glue, no. Maybe a fine tipped glue gun?
Originally Posted by t2d2
Good call on the window guide screws. Mine had been worked on previously and were pretty stripped, although I was able to get them out carefully with a big phillips. I've got new ones to replace them.
That's good! You got them out without much trouble and have the replacements ready. It wouldn't surprise me if most SC's have the same tight track bolts.
Does the rest of the process look pretty straightforward now? Especially the windows themselves?
That's an extra step I have yet to try. Sounds like you hit a snag but that it will make the process easier.
I wanted to take the full outer trim off, anyway, to get a better look at the condition of all the weatherstripping. I plan to do the same on the pass. side to get at the belt moulding and not have to touch the glass. However, everything on the driver's side came apart in bunches somewhat inexplicably, so I'm not supremely confident in both sides being the same.
Those look spot-welded from the picture you've posted. I would use a heavy duty marine epoxy if that seems like it was never spot-welded. I've never seen inside that trim panel before. If it looks like a service part then I would not use any type of permanent glue, no. Maybe a fine tipped glue gun?
I've got marine epoxy, so I'll give that a try and let it set over night. On one of the ones still still solidly attached, I flicked one with my fingernail and it seemed to chip away too easily to be spot welded, but maybe that was just two decades of dirt accumulation around the edge and not part of the actual bond. It doesn't seem like those screws require (or can handle) much force to hold the belt moulding on. I think I'll just use some mild loctite and not cinch them down a ton. I imagine that'll keep from putting too much stress on the little tabs.
I got the rusted screw out of its broken off boss just now. CLR and PB Blaster didn't loosen it, so I made a jig of sorts with it nailed down to a block of wood so I could get extra down force on the screw. Otherwise, there's not much to hold onto with how small it is. It looks salvageable once epoxied back on now.
That's good! You got them out without much trouble and have the replacements ready. It wouldn't surprise me if most SC's have the same tight track bolts.
Does the rest of the process look pretty straightforward now? Especially the windows themselves?
Well, just before building the jig, I was looking in the FSM for how to actually get the glass out. I guess I only got the four soft guide screws (they really do seem like a soft aluminum) up top that move up and down with the glass -- three in back and one in front. Looking at page BO-36, I still have one at the very bottom of the rear track and two more on the front track to find. From there, it says to just carefully lift the glass and regulator out together. However, that step comes after disassembling pretty much everything on the door. I have a bad feeling I have a few more steps ahead of me.
Well shoot, my freshly opened tube of marine epoxy was rock hard. I've heard of that happening with old stock, but never got a bad one myself. So, I used JB Weld instead. I reinforced the still intact bosses while I was at it, since it's probably only a matter of time until they all rust and fall off.
05-21-15, 09:47 AM
ordering new door weatherstripping, need to confirm part #s
It looks like they're pretty easy to replace?
