Matt300ZXT

iTrader: (2)

So because of bad leak down and compression test numbers (even though it hasn't run in a year), I decided to pull the head and check out the condition of the bottom end before perhaps purchasing a 2JZ-GE bottom end and making a 1.5JZ, or seeing if everything looked good and some new rings and bearings would suffice. Not knowing the history of the motor, miles, how it was run, etc, I wanted to check it out.

These are pics of the tops of the pistons, as well as pics of each bore on 2 different angles. It may not show so much in the pics, but there is plenty of crosshatching still in each cylinder. They're in numerical order, so the first 3 pics are of cylinder 1, 2nd 3 pics are of cylinder 2 and so on.

Piston/wall 1:




Piston/wall 2:




Piston/wall 3:




Piston/wall 4:




Piston/wall 5:




Piston/wall 6:




...to be continued in post 2.

Matt300ZXT

iTrader: (2)

After removing the head because of possible plans of a 1.5JZ, and no one wanting to buy the 1JZ bottom end, I decided if some things check out to be in proper spec, I can just put a few hundred bucks in cleaning/measuring the crank/rods/block and maybe get away with some fresh rings and bearings. That way I wouldn't have to buy a 2JZ-GE and have MORE motor stuff in the way if I didn't need to. I got a digital dial indicator gauge and decided to check the rotating assembly's end play. Here are the numbers I got:

Crank-.17mm/.007in
Rod 1-.28mm/.011in
Rod 2-.36mm/.014in
Rod 3-.29mm/.012in
Rod 4-.38mm/.0145in
Rod 5-.38mm/.0155in
Rod 6-.34mm/.013in

Everything checked out according to spec, but the crank seemed a wee bit tight. The rods all checked comfortably within standard working limits with no indicators of spun bearings, so no need to replace any rods or the crank. With that information in mind, I decided to further tear the block apart because unless something unforeseen happened, everything should be good to spend $30 or $40 to have a local machine shop clean the crank and check it for straightness and measure the journals and measure the rods to see if everything there is good (and get bearing clearances so I'd know what bearings to order). If everything continues to check out within tolerance, then I can have the block dipped and bores checked. If those check out ok, then I can have the bores final honed to put some fresh cross hatching in them. After all that, hopefully with everything checking within tolerance, I can order rings/bearings and start to re-assemble the bottom end. Having things checked in a certain order minimizes the amount of money spent in case something turns out to be out of tolerance and needs more work/money than I want to put into it.

Anyways, I cracked the rods/mains off earlier today and here are pics:

Rod 1:




Rod 2:




Rod 3:




Rod 4:




Rod 5:




Rod 6:




...to be continued in post 3.

Matt300ZXT

iTrader: (2)

Here are the pictures of the mains.

Main 1:



Main 2:



Main 3:



Main 4:



Main 5:



Main 6:



Main 7:



Now that your mind has been melted with this long post and all this information and pictures, what do you guys think about the pics/information?

I'm not really interested in hearsay, or what happened to a friend of a friend or the guy in the next town and what they said. If you're an experience wrench turner/mechanic or engine builder and you have something to say or information to add, or questions to ask, feel free to contribute because I'd really appreciate it.

xlr8steve

iTrader: (1)

From what I can see in the pics, it's a great start, some very light scoring on the crank, polish, hone and re-ring, ARPs...BOOST!