LexyAzHell

Hey guys. So ive got a completely stock 1993 SC300. I just recently bought it for $800 from a scrap/junkyard. It was a complete car, aside from cosmetic things, but now its running like an $800 car. lol Which was expected a one point. Now, down to trying to explain the problem. About a week and a half ago, i was driving over a pretty rough and bumpy road. When i got home i noticed the positive battery cable was off (because it had been loose before and was later replaced). And the day after, this was the first sign of the car starting to run like ****. I figured it was a battery or alternator problem (because of the cable falling off). I went to advanced to get the test done on them and they both were perfectly fine. Then the day after that, about 30 min into driving, the check engine light came on (but keep in mind the car still ran ok while driving). I looked up the process of jumping the TE1 and E1 terminals (i cant remember off the top of my head if those were the names but i know i did it right). All was good(sort of) when the code started blinking and it turned out to be the knock sensor signal (55 right?). At this point the car was drivable for 30 min at most. But today on my way home, the engine light came on and as soon as it did, and i mean INSTANTLY, the car dropped to about 500 rpm( or less) and didnt go anywhere when throttle was applied. Luckily i was turning on to my street. So i stopped and figured jumping the terminals again would tell me the current problem. But nothing flashed. No matter how i inserted the wire, nothing flashed. I then decided to pull in my drive way. I got about half way up it w/o throttle applied and the second i touched the gas the rpms dropped so fast, probably around 100 (if thats even possible) and then kicked back up when i let off. So then i decided to try one quick tap to get up and thats when it stalled/died on me. So i have no clue what this could be. Could you guys help me out? Any info on anything is helpful to me. I want to learn so in depth details and tips are encouraged. And sorry for the long post. Just wanted to make sure all info and details were being told (to the best of my abilities).If you need further info, i will provide for you ( to the best of my abilities). Thx -Austin

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Hi, Lexus has already responded to your earlier similar request.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...-shut-off.html

I'm moving this to the model discussion forums.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Battery voltage supply to the ECU is critical on these cars. It has to be at around >13.8v if your alternator is charging right. Otherwise that idle will be fluctuating up and down as voltage going to that ECU is going down below 12v.

Fully charge the battery and tighten well your battery terminals making sure there are no corrosion and your alternator is charging well the battery.

LexyAzHell

These are the new terminals and everything is pretty clean. If you say its a voltage thing, i may just get a new battery because the guys from the yard threw one in for me.

LexyAzHell

ECU rebuild was the solution. Thx for the help guys.

madmax98

A beast of a build, keep it up.