grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

hey hipsi. so your saying dial back timing 7-8 degrees. so your saying to set it at 2-3 degrees?
ive always wanted to go na-t but i'm doing maintenance. I just want to know for when I do jump the gun. I know arp head studs, I know tt head gasket to reduce compression,(or tt pistons and ge head gasket.) oil feed and drain. don't know what sizes. turn down timing, obviously intercooler, piping, bov, wastegate, turbo manifold. anything i'm missing?
also, why do you want to set timing back, is it for a fuller burn?
edit: just read from the beginning and that you want to SET the timing to 7-8 degrees. not turn down 7-8. haha. i'm a dumbass. sorry.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

I'm leaning towards a Competition Flywheel and an Action stage 6 clutch. My installer recommends that setup and uses it in his cars.

THANKS SO MUCH for all the help in this thread!

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

I would stay away from a lightened flywheel.....stock steel is the best

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Same clutch here to, Comp Stage 4 ^^ . Stick with the stock flywheel and just have it resurfaced. Clutch pedal in my opinion is very light weight. Engagement can be a bit jittery if you roll off idle and not rev it up slightly, I'm assuming this is due to the 6 puck disc. When I've been driving for a bit and the disc is warmed up it seems to engage smoother.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I meant make sure you set base timing at 7-8 degrees versus I believe stock is 10 degrees base timing. Reducing base timing will reduce your overall peak timing and will give you a buffer against knock with 10:1 compression and 93 octane. If e85 is readily available in your area just keep the stock compression!

The timing map on the GTE ecu is pretty aggressive as well which is why Ali recommends still a base timing of 8 degrees. The best thing about the GTE ecu is that it learns your tune and will pull timing if knock is present. The ECU does a really good job of protecting the motor and for people wanting a fool proof bolt on ecu without having to learn AEM on the fly the stock ecu is amazing and still power capable. I went from AEM V2 to the JDM GTE ecu for reference and it drives like stock.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Pound for pound, this has to be one of the most informative threads around. I guess I just diluted it...

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Hipsi pretty much nailed it in the quote below, you would be best with a JDM SUPRA ecu, and if you can get your hands on the 6 speed one it would be literally perfect for your car, its the one I am using right now, its a little more crisp than the auto ecu's for a manual car.

you really only need to follow the info in post #1, the thread is way too long to read don't try and do that.

as for the 400hp thing, it can be done on the stock headgasket but the reason why people say do the tt headgasket is for more safety margin. if you can keep it at 7 psi and never have an overboost situation, then you would be ok. lets say for example the wastegate line gets too close to your downpipe and gets a hole, next time you boost you will rocket past 7 psi to about 16 psi before boost cut kicks in via the ecu. when you hit 16 psi for that second, you could likely have blown your headgasket right there.

now... if you had installed the tt headgasket (w/arp's and stock washers is preferred), you would be good to 20 psi on most normal sized turbo's, considering you have enough injector. so when you spike to 16 psi and the ecu cuts you off this time (boost cut), you have not blown your headgasket or damaged anything cause the motor can take it. in fact after the first time it happens you may realize you like 15 psi a whole lot better than 7 psi, and then the upgrading game begins.

really 7 psi makes a world of difference to a non turbo car, but in turbo car speak, 7 psi is merely like a tickle, the car comes alive around 14+ psi you will start to really feel things start moving.

so its really about overhead and safety margin. I drove at 9 psi for like a year and a half with no overboosts, but I kept on eye on important stuff. I actually ended up doing the headgasket because my timing belt was looking sad, so figured that was the time to do it as well.

exactly that tt gasket will give you overhead to run more boost on purpose, or on accident, both of which can happen on a turbo car, especially if you have a boost controller in the mix.

use TT headgasket, don't do pistons unless you are a toyota whiz already its a much harder route to reduce compression.
oil feed -3AN (alot of people and their mother will tell you to use -4an but I dont like it)
oil drain minimum -8an but recommended and typically used is -10 AN (-12an is for larger turbos)

yeah base timing on a toyota is 10 plus or minus 2 degrees, so when using a gte ecu which has a little more agressive timing in the non-boost areas we just set the base timing to 8 to be on the safe side, and technically its still in factory spec thanks to the minus 2 thing and I love technicalities.

thanks Hi psi for the detailed vouch on the gte mod, I was starting to think I was the only one who liked it better than a standalone for a daily driver or even a weekend warrior.
I always used to have my eyes glued to the air fuel gauge on the aem, never knew what it was going to not like that particular day and do something funny.
with the JDM 2jzgte supra ecu I hardly even look at it anymore its 99% of the time reading exactly what it should.
that being said it does require all the things a stock ecu does, like the tps to be adjusted properly, you know the small stuff.

Its still much easier than learning to tune a standalone, and I really have nothing against standalones I would use one again if I needed the extrea features.

For those going standalone just to be complete the best advice anyone can give you is :.
FIND A GOOD TUNER FIRST. your standalone can have a gazillion features but if your tuner is no good your car will run... no good.
If you have a great tuner it will run great. there are members that wait for the good tuners for months to get worked into their schedule, there is a reason why, and they will likely tell you their car runs very well afterwards even like stock with the standalone, and theirs probably does.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

So lets say I wanted a ffim bigger injectors decent sized turbo Daveh turbo manifold still have check engine light when something goes wrong and all the safety features. Pushing 600-700 whp. Gm coil packs Ross machine racing Tb, dual tt Fuel pumps. High pressure oil pump. Idk how many psi boost. daily driven. But would gte ecu be good or have to go standalone?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

UUOOHHH... my friend is going boosted

You drive SLOW / NORMAL 90% of the time ? Wait till you are boosted . It will be FAST 90% of the time then you would want more power for more speed. It is a sickness like drugs.. you want more and more .

Listen to the advices of who have done what you are going into.. saves time and money . Experience is the best teacher !

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Ali man you made me love my car all over again! I had given up and parted it out.

My advice is to take it one step at a time, get the car situated with all kinks worked out at 400whp, then progress from there. Also from my experience here is follow advice on which parts work and what's proven. No need to reinvent the wheel, the guys here on clublexus have gone through so many setups to find one that finally works.

Don't do to much at once, it makes it difficult to troubleshoot with process of elimination, there are to many variables changed to find the source of the issue. I did the JDM ecu conversion first before doing anything else. The car was running and driving reliably NA before bolting the turbo on.

Can the GTE ecu support 600whp? Probably but it will need a MAPECU 3 or equivalent piggy back to offset for the larger injectors. I'd say max I would go on an apexi safc would be 600-650cc and even then it might have to large of a variation to make stable A/F conditions. They say the max injector you can run on a piggy back ecu setup is no more than double the stock injectors. So in theory 880cc injectors is the max you could compensate for using a MAPECU setup on the stock JDM ecu. I asked Ali this same question and he recommended making a switch to a USDM OBD1 6speed ecu and using the MAPECU3 to delete the stock maf. This ecu uses 550cc injectors and in theory would increase the max injector cap to 1100cc, or ID1000's .

To be honest once you are at power levels of 600-700whp you should be investing in a proper EMS system. Piggy back tuning at that power level is asking for something to go wrong and pop the motor. My goal right now is a solid 550whp on 93oct, and I think it will take larger injectors, a cam upgrade, and possibly some water / meth injection to do it comfortably with my PTE6265. I could always upgrade the 6265 but I refuse to spend more money on a turbo that I haven't come close to maxing out yet.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

OK, you guys are totally correct on that I'm sure!

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

thanks highpsi. makes me feel like I should go straight to standalone so I can just have someone tune when I do any upgrades.