Got a Dave H turbo kit today. Any tips as I step into the boosted world?
04-08-15, 11:09 PM
#1
Got a Dave H turbo kit today. Any tips as I step into the boosted world?
Hi,
I just purchased a turbo kit today, it contains these items:
DaveH PT61 Turbo Kit -
DaveH Log Style Manifold
Polished PT61
Polished Apexi BOV
Down Pipe
Waste gate dump pipe
Tial wastegate
Oil Line
FMIC
Is that all I need for a starter, low boost, reliable W58 setup? I will upgrade the head gasket, injectors, fuel pump, studs, tranny later on if I can.
Is it OK to wait on the HG and studs until I swap out the W58?
Should I get the MAP ECU as well? Should I get something different for mgmt?
Any ideas on how I should go about this would be awesome
Thanks!!!!!!
(more pics tomorrow)
I just purchased a turbo kit today, it contains these items:
DaveH PT61 Turbo Kit -
DaveH Log Style Manifold
Polished PT61
Polished Apexi BOV
Down Pipe
Waste gate dump pipe
Tial wastegate
Oil Line
FMIC
Is that all I need for a starter, low boost, reliable W58 setup? I will upgrade the head gasket, injectors, fuel pump, studs, tranny later on if I can.
Is it OK to wait on the HG and studs until I swap out the W58?
Should I get the MAP ECU as well? Should I get something different for mgmt?
Any ideas on how I should go about this would be awesome
Thanks!!!!!!
(more pics tomorrow)
Last edited by Studiogeek; 04-08-15 at 11:14 PM.
04-09-15, 06:02 AM
#2
I would keep boost limited to say 8-10 psi with stock compression and 93 octane. Reset your base timing to 7-8 degrees to be on the safe side. You MUST get a boost gauge, wideband gauge to tune properly.
The stock injectors will really limit what boost you can run. Changing to a high flow Walbro fuel pump is cheap and simple fuel mod, keep the stock lines, replace the OEM fuel filter with a new OEM one.
Are you planning on trying to tune the stock ecu? If so you might want to reconsider and look into the aristo jdm GTE ecu swap. The car will run just like a stock boosted supra. I used a 6spd jdm ecu with 550cc injectors and I have a apexi safc to pull fuel with. This gives me headroom for my initial goal of 400-500whp.
The w58 will hold lower NA-T power levels fine as long as you aren't launching / hard shifting often.
The stock injectors will really limit what boost you can run. Changing to a high flow Walbro fuel pump is cheap and simple fuel mod, keep the stock lines, replace the OEM fuel filter with a new OEM one.
Are you planning on trying to tune the stock ecu? If so you might want to reconsider and look into the aristo jdm GTE ecu swap. The car will run just like a stock boosted supra. I used a 6spd jdm ecu with 550cc injectors and I have a apexi safc to pull fuel with. This gives me headroom for my initial goal of 400-500whp.
The w58 will hold lower NA-T power levels fine as long as you aren't launching / hard shifting often.
Last edited by HiPSI; 04-09-15 at 06:06 AM.
04-09-15, 08:14 AM
#3
I would keep boost limited to say 8-10 psi with stock compression and 93 octane. Reset your base timing to 7-8 degrees to be on the safe side. You MUST get a boost gauge, wideband gauge to tune properly.
Is this IF i don't get a standalone/piggyback, or I will need these either way? (sorry, boost nube here).
The stock injectors will really limit what boost you can run. Changing to a high flow Walbro fuel pump is cheap and simple fuel mod, keep the stock lines, replace the OEM fuel filter with a new OEM one.
Do i need the larger injectors now (400hp) or later when I wan't to turn boost up?
Are you planning on trying to tune the stock ecu? If so you might want to reconsider and look into the aristo jdm GTE ecu swap. The car will run just like a stock boosted supra. I used a 6spd jdm ecu with 550cc injectors and I have a apexi safc to pull fuel with. This gives me headroom for my initial goal of 400-500whp.
I am trying to figure out what I need for the initial 400hp, then for 500-700 after tranny swap etc. Do I need to do this now, or for the next 500+hp stage? I am after reliability and low maintenance as I have no boost maintenance skills yet.
The w58 will hold lower NA-T power levels fine as long as you aren't launching / hard shifting often.
Is this IF i don't get a standalone/piggyback, or I will need these either way? (sorry, boost nube here).
The stock injectors will really limit what boost you can run. Changing to a high flow Walbro fuel pump is cheap and simple fuel mod, keep the stock lines, replace the OEM fuel filter with a new OEM one.
Do i need the larger injectors now (400hp) or later when I wan't to turn boost up?
Are you planning on trying to tune the stock ecu? If so you might want to reconsider and look into the aristo jdm GTE ecu swap. The car will run just like a stock boosted supra. I used a 6spd jdm ecu with 550cc injectors and I have a apexi safc to pull fuel with. This gives me headroom for my initial goal of 400-500whp.
I am trying to figure out what I need for the initial 400hp, then for 500-700 after tranny swap etc. Do I need to do this now, or for the next 500+hp stage? I am after reliability and low maintenance as I have no boost maintenance skills yet.
The w58 will hold lower NA-T power levels fine as long as you aren't launching / hard shifting often.
Thank You so much for your help!
SG
04-09-15, 09:07 AM
#4
studio, you have the right idea on the kit (nice kit btw its an oldie but a goodie) but as hipsi said the most important thing missing is the ecu.
don't install the turbo kit with the stock ecu, you will regret it, everyone does.
it is not sufficient to add a piggyback to the stock ecu, cause the stock ecu still sucks very badly, it freaks out everytime it sees boost, and with a turbo that happens often.
you can change the stock ecu out for a 2jzgte ecu which works very well, and then use piggybacks on that, which is what the gte ecu mod essentially is.
plan for the gte ecu mod at the very least. I am guessing its going on the '95, if so you are a perfect candidate for the gte ecu mod being obd1 and 5 speed (pretty much a copy of my car).
other option is a standalone. this gives you the most flexibility but sometimes also the most headache if you want it to just simply run and drive well.
expect a good amount of setup time, and expect to have to get an initial tune right off the bat ($500+), its almost a requirement unless you can tune yourself (its difficult at first).
I ran up to 11 psi on the stock headgasket with an upgraded fuel pump and injectors (I was on stock ecu at the time aka the worst experience of my life, and then swapped to an aem ems v1, this was before the gte ecu mod).
it never drove right on the stock ecu and i tried safc, map ecu, most of them. I remember one time trying to take my cousin for a drive and it seriously just made hairdryer noises in boost the car didn't seem to go that much faster, not to mention the random backfires or crazy detonation sounds at times. one pull I seriously thought I blew the motor it sounded so bad I told myself that day the stock ecu was junk for a turbo car and it really is. after the aem ems and the tune the car pulled like a beast in boost, it was a surprising difference to say the least.
you should be good on the gte ecu if you keep the base timing around 8 and you shouldn't break the w58 as you will probably only be around 350whp area and you have the newer style w58 which seem to hold up a little better. the gte ecu pulls as good as it did on the standalone, but I will say my mpg's are a little worse on the gte ecu as I could really lean things out in cruise with the aem ems v1.
that being said I prefer the gte ecu still as it just works and never gets upset due to the weather or temperature and even if something goes catastrophically wrong like blowing a coupler off or intake leaks etc... it always adjust enough to get me back home, as in the stock ecu is pretty amazing at keeping it running no matter what, especially the JDM one.
you will also need the oil feed line and drain line, not sure which one you have just says oil line.
you will need a heavy duty clutch kit, the factory one will burn out in under 10 good boost pulls.
also you will need an is300 union bolt for the feed line to attach to the engine at the oil filter.
lots of little stuff guess but that most of the big stuff.
nice brakes btw those things are blinding =)
don't install the turbo kit with the stock ecu, you will regret it, everyone does.
it is not sufficient to add a piggyback to the stock ecu, cause the stock ecu still sucks very badly, it freaks out everytime it sees boost, and with a turbo that happens often.
you can change the stock ecu out for a 2jzgte ecu which works very well, and then use piggybacks on that, which is what the gte ecu mod essentially is.
plan for the gte ecu mod at the very least. I am guessing its going on the '95, if so you are a perfect candidate for the gte ecu mod being obd1 and 5 speed (pretty much a copy of my car).
other option is a standalone. this gives you the most flexibility but sometimes also the most headache if you want it to just simply run and drive well.
expect a good amount of setup time, and expect to have to get an initial tune right off the bat ($500+), its almost a requirement unless you can tune yourself (its difficult at first).
I ran up to 11 psi on the stock headgasket with an upgraded fuel pump and injectors (I was on stock ecu at the time aka the worst experience of my life, and then swapped to an aem ems v1, this was before the gte ecu mod).
it never drove right on the stock ecu and i tried safc, map ecu, most of them. I remember one time trying to take my cousin for a drive and it seriously just made hairdryer noises in boost the car didn't seem to go that much faster, not to mention the random backfires or crazy detonation sounds at times. one pull I seriously thought I blew the motor it sounded so bad I told myself that day the stock ecu was junk for a turbo car and it really is. after the aem ems and the tune the car pulled like a beast in boost, it was a surprising difference to say the least.
you should be good on the gte ecu if you keep the base timing around 8 and you shouldn't break the w58 as you will probably only be around 350whp area and you have the newer style w58 which seem to hold up a little better. the gte ecu pulls as good as it did on the standalone, but I will say my mpg's are a little worse on the gte ecu as I could really lean things out in cruise with the aem ems v1.
that being said I prefer the gte ecu still as it just works and never gets upset due to the weather or temperature and even if something goes catastrophically wrong like blowing a coupler off or intake leaks etc... it always adjust enough to get me back home, as in the stock ecu is pretty amazing at keeping it running no matter what, especially the JDM one.
you will also need the oil feed line and drain line, not sure which one you have just says oil line.
you will need a heavy duty clutch kit, the factory one will burn out in under 10 good boost pulls.
also you will need an is300 union bolt for the feed line to attach to the engine at the oil filter.
lots of little stuff guess but that most of the big stuff.
nice brakes btw those things are blinding =)
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-09-15 at 09:20 AM.
04-09-15, 09:19 AM
#5
It seems that I am in the same position as you. I've started collecting turbo parts and want to have ~400hp on the w58, then ~700hp on an r154 or cd009. I am going to skip the gte ecu and get a standalone while it is still NA to work out all the bugs. Then when then durable trans goes in I won't have to switch computers, just crank up the boost. Just my $0.02
04-09-15, 11:58 AM
#6
If I were you I would do the ARP headstuds and GTE headgasket before putting on kit.....Do it right the first time then you wont have to come back in later and do it...Plus you have a better piece of mind knowing that you wont blow a HG....
I would also recommend picking up a TT Denso pump....they are very cheap around 80-100 for a used one.....they are capable of 500 hp....FYI.....You will need to do the 12V mod to get the pump to turn on
Defiantely install a Wideband o2 to watch your A/F and install a boost gauge to make sure you are aware of the PSI
Honestly I would get the Aristo GTE ECU and follow Ali's thread on how to convert your car over...it is really hard to meet the stock reliability of the ECU....It is tuned very conservative and I am about 100-150hp over stock levels...and it can handle it like a champ....add a BCC and bigger injectors and crank up the boost...
I know of multiple people who use stock ECU and a Map ECU..to control fueling and map sensor.....people have made some serious power on this setup.....I will be taking this route very soon.....
I would also recommend picking up a TT Denso pump....they are very cheap around 80-100 for a used one.....they are capable of 500 hp....FYI.....You will need to do the 12V mod to get the pump to turn on
Defiantely install a Wideband o2 to watch your A/F and install a boost gauge to make sure you are aware of the PSI
Honestly I would get the Aristo GTE ECU and follow Ali's thread on how to convert your car over...it is really hard to meet the stock reliability of the ECU....It is tuned very conservative and I am about 100-150hp over stock levels...and it can handle it like a champ....add a BCC and bigger injectors and crank up the boost...
I know of multiple people who use stock ECU and a Map ECU..to control fueling and map sensor.....people have made some serious power on this setup.....I will be taking this route very soon.....
Last edited by CatManD3W; 04-09-15 at 12:05 PM.
04-09-15, 06:58 PM
#7
I'm pretty old, I drive normally 90% of the time. I catch a speed fit occasionally for a very short time but mostly drive pretty mellow. I want to set this up so it's perfect for W58 at first, than second stage will come after i have CD009 or R154.
Thank You so much for your help!
SG
Thank You so much for your help!
SG
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04-09-15, 09:25 PM
#9
studio, you have the right idea on the kit (nice kit btw its an oldie but a goodie) but as hipsi said the most important thing missing is the ecu.
Thanks Ali! That feels particularly satisfying coming from you!
don't install the turbo kit with the stock ecu, you will regret it, everyone does.
it is not sufficient to add a piggyback to the stock ecu, cause the stock ecu still sucks very badly, it freaks out everytime it sees boost, and with a turbo that happens often.
I won't, I promise! Thanks!
you can change the stock ecu out for a 2jzgte ecu which works very well, and then use piggybacks on that, which is what the gte ecu mod essentially is.
plan for the gte ecu mod at the very least. I am guessing its going on the '95, if so you are a perfect candidate for the gte ecu mod being obd1 and 5 speed (pretty much a copy of my car).
This sounds like what I want! That's the TT ECU mod in your huge thread right?
other option is a standalone. this gives you the most flexibility but sometimes also the most headache if you want it to just simply run and drive well.
expect a good amount of setup time, and expect to have to get an initial tune right off the bat ($500+), its almost a requirement unless you can tune yourself (its difficult at first).
I may try this after I understand it more and have more coin.
I ran up to 11 psi on the stock headgasket with an upgraded fuel pump and injectors (I was on stock ecu at the time aka the worst experience of my life, and then swapped to an aem ems v1, this was before the gte ecu mod).
it never drove right on the stock ecu and i tried safc, map ecu, most of them. I remember one time trying to take my cousin for a drive and it seriously just made hairdryer noises in boost the car didn't seem to go that much faster, not to mention the random backfires or crazy detonation sounds at times. one pull I seriously thought I blew the motor it sounded so bad I told myself that day the stock ecu was junk for a turbo car and it really is. after the aem ems and the tune the car pulled like a beast in boost, it was a surprising difference to say the least.
I'm so psyched!
you should be good on the gte ecu if you keep the base timing around 8 and you shouldn't break the w58 as you will probably only be around 350whp area and you have the newer style w58 which seem to hold up a little better. the gte ecu pulls as good as it did on the standalone, but I will say my mpg's are a little worse on the gte ecu as I could really lean things out in cruise with the aem ems v1.
that being said I prefer the gte ecu still as it just works and never gets upset due to the weather or temperature and even if something goes catastrophically wrong like blowing a coupler off or intake leaks etc... it always adjust enough to get me back home, as in the stock ecu is pretty amazing at keeping it running no matter what, especially the JDM one.
you will also need the oil feed line and drain line, not sure which one you have just says oil line. Ill find out!
you will need a heavy duty clutch kit, the factory one will burn out in under 10 good boost pulls. Shopping now for one now. What do you think of the Competition Flywheel and an Action stage 6 clutch?
also you will need an is300 union bolt for the feed line to attach to the engine at the oil filter. OK, Will do!
lots of little stuff guess but that most of the big stuff.
nice brakes btw those things are blinding =)
Thanks Ali! That feels particularly satisfying coming from you!
don't install the turbo kit with the stock ecu, you will regret it, everyone does.
it is not sufficient to add a piggyback to the stock ecu, cause the stock ecu still sucks very badly, it freaks out everytime it sees boost, and with a turbo that happens often.
I won't, I promise! Thanks!
you can change the stock ecu out for a 2jzgte ecu which works very well, and then use piggybacks on that, which is what the gte ecu mod essentially is.
plan for the gte ecu mod at the very least. I am guessing its going on the '95, if so you are a perfect candidate for the gte ecu mod being obd1 and 5 speed (pretty much a copy of my car).
This sounds like what I want! That's the TT ECU mod in your huge thread right?
other option is a standalone. this gives you the most flexibility but sometimes also the most headache if you want it to just simply run and drive well.
expect a good amount of setup time, and expect to have to get an initial tune right off the bat ($500+), its almost a requirement unless you can tune yourself (its difficult at first).
I may try this after I understand it more and have more coin.
I ran up to 11 psi on the stock headgasket with an upgraded fuel pump and injectors (I was on stock ecu at the time aka the worst experience of my life, and then swapped to an aem ems v1, this was before the gte ecu mod).
it never drove right on the stock ecu and i tried safc, map ecu, most of them. I remember one time trying to take my cousin for a drive and it seriously just made hairdryer noises in boost the car didn't seem to go that much faster, not to mention the random backfires or crazy detonation sounds at times. one pull I seriously thought I blew the motor it sounded so bad I told myself that day the stock ecu was junk for a turbo car and it really is. after the aem ems and the tune the car pulled like a beast in boost, it was a surprising difference to say the least.
I'm so psyched!
you should be good on the gte ecu if you keep the base timing around 8 and you shouldn't break the w58 as you will probably only be around 350whp area and you have the newer style w58 which seem to hold up a little better. the gte ecu pulls as good as it did on the standalone, but I will say my mpg's are a little worse on the gte ecu as I could really lean things out in cruise with the aem ems v1.
that being said I prefer the gte ecu still as it just works and never gets upset due to the weather or temperature and even if something goes catastrophically wrong like blowing a coupler off or intake leaks etc... it always adjust enough to get me back home, as in the stock ecu is pretty amazing at keeping it running no matter what, especially the JDM one.
you will also need the oil feed line and drain line, not sure which one you have just says oil line. Ill find out!
you will need a heavy duty clutch kit, the factory one will burn out in under 10 good boost pulls. Shopping now for one now. What do you think of the Competition Flywheel and an Action stage 6 clutch?
also you will need an is300 union bolt for the feed line to attach to the engine at the oil filter. OK, Will do!
lots of little stuff guess but that most of the big stuff.
nice brakes btw those things are blinding =)
THANKS ALISC3!!!!!!!
04-09-15, 09:32 PM
#10
If I were you I would do the ARP headstuds and GTE headgasket before putting on kit.....Do it right the first time then you wont have to come back in later and do it...Plus you have a better piece of mind knowing that you won't blow a HG....
I'm pretty sure I will do this before I boost. Thank You!
I would also recommend picking up a TT Denso pump....they are very cheap around 80-100 for a used one.....they are capable of 500 hp....FYI.....You will need to do the 12V mod to get the pump to turn on
I'll surely look into this! I love cheap upgrades for a change!!!
Defiantely install a Wideband o2 to watch your A/F and install a boost gauge to make sure you are aware of the PSI
OK! Thats on the list now. Thanks!
Honestly I would get the Aristo GTE ECU and follow Ali's thread on how to convert your car over...it is really hard to meet the stock reliability of the ECU....It is tuned very conservative and I am about 100-150hp over stock levels...and it can handle it like a champ....add a BCC and bigger injectors and crank up the boost...
THAT'S THE PLANNNNNNNNNN !!!!
I know of multiple people who use stock ECU and a Map ECU..to control fueling and map sensor.....people have made some serious power on this setup.....I will be taking this route very soon.....
I'm pretty sure I will do this before I boost. Thank You!
I would also recommend picking up a TT Denso pump....they are very cheap around 80-100 for a used one.....they are capable of 500 hp....FYI.....You will need to do the 12V mod to get the pump to turn on
I'll surely look into this! I love cheap upgrades for a change!!!
Defiantely install a Wideband o2 to watch your A/F and install a boost gauge to make sure you are aware of the PSI
OK! Thats on the list now. Thanks!
Honestly I would get the Aristo GTE ECU and follow Ali's thread on how to convert your car over...it is really hard to meet the stock reliability of the ECU....It is tuned very conservative and I am about 100-150hp over stock levels...and it can handle it like a champ....add a BCC and bigger injectors and crank up the boost...
THAT'S THE PLANNNNNNNNNN !!!!
I know of multiple people who use stock ECU and a Map ECU..to control fueling and map sensor.....people have made some serious power on this setup.....I will be taking this route very soon.....
Thank You!
04-10-15, 06:24 AM
#11
Ali,
What's the best GTE ECU for me to look for? Do I need more parts?
Should I print out the thread and have the installer follow exactly what's in the thread? Or do I need modifications in my case?
Some say leave the compression stock for 400hp, others say surely do TT gasket. I won't turn up boost until I get CD009 next year.
What's true in my case?
What's the best GTE ECU for me to look for? Do I need more parts?
Should I print out the thread and have the installer follow exactly what's in the thread? Or do I need modifications in my case?
Some say leave the compression stock for 400hp, others say surely do TT gasket. I won't turn up boost until I get CD009 next year.
What's true in my case?
Last edited by Studiogeek; 04-10-15 at 06:32 AM.
04-10-15, 06:33 AM
#12
There is a thread on here or supraforums with all the different part numbers, let me see if I can find it that is the best way to ensure you are getting a 6 speed ecu.
Stock 10:1 compression just reduces the safety margin versus lowering compression slightly to 9.2:1 with a GTE HG, 93 octane is a must. Dial back timing 7-8 deg base and make sure the tune is safe at 11:1 A/F. The issue I ran into is as I increased boost my oem headgasket started to slowly leak until I was puffing white smoke continuously and losing coolant into the cylinders. After it was obvious I had a blown head gasket, I did the GTE TT headgasket and ARP head studs and everything has been solid since.
Last edited by HiPSI; 04-10-15 at 06:36 AM.
04-10-15, 06:35 AM
#13
It seems that I am in the same position as you. I've started collecting turbo parts and want to have ~400hp on the w58, then ~700hp on an r154 or cd009. I am going to skip the gte ecu and get a standalone while it is still NA to work out all the bugs. Then when then durable trans goes in I won't have to switch computers, just crank up the boost. Just my $0.02
04-10-15, 07:24 AM
#15
I have the Competition Clutch Stage 4 on mine....no issues with it at all....a few members are running it as well...Im pushing 14psi...to my w58
It is a little bit stiff at first but once it gets broken its very similar to stock
Biggest thing is to not get an unsprung clutch....you want a sprung disk....i.e has springs on it
You will want to get your stock OEM flywheels resurfaced.....it only cost around $40-50.....
It is a little bit stiff at first but once it gets broken its very similar to stock
Biggest thing is to not get an unsprung clutch....you want a sprung disk....i.e has springs on it
You will want to get your stock OEM flywheels resurfaced.....it only cost around $40-50.....
Last edited by CatManD3W; 04-10-15 at 07:35 AM.