Tlaurin3

Just to preface, I have searched but maybe I can't get keywords right or something? To not add several posts, I will try to document the rest of this swap on this thread and maybe it can help someone out. We don't get to work on it very often, only once or twice a month. I believe I'll be working on it on Saturday.

So, I am helping a friend with his 1j non vvti swap. Auto ecu with a w58. Initially, the car started perfectly. I have not checked but I don't think I have the starter signal going to the ecu.

He finally drove it around the block. Parked And he shut it off.. I jump in it, reverse a few feet and it dies. After that, itll start and immediately die, then it'll catch and try, then it won't start or catch at all. Come back the next day, same process. I'm at a bit of a loss.

Things checked are a visual inspection of the ecu, no bad caps, tested injector pulse with an led and its there. Unplugged iscv, map and no change.

Things I will do are check for spark, and fuel filter.

I just feel these circumstances are weird. Im just scratching my head at this point and I'd like to reach out and see if anyone has experienced this fortunately?

i will make sure to hook up the cranking signal to the ecu and ill connect the check engine light and see if i can get a code. I am assuming if I have injector pulse, and spark checks out, cam and crank sensors are good right?

Sorry for the wall of text. We've just been working on this for a long time and its time to finish this. Thank you all!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if it starts once when engine is fully cold like first start in the morning, and then nothing after that usually a sign of a bad coolant sensor.
If you smell fuel when you are trying to start it again that is another sign. could be something else but that is an important sensor on the older ecu's.

Tlaurin3

Gotcha! Thank you so much for the reply! I believe we changed that when we installed the motor though. I remember my hand breaking the connector on the sensor, then trying to remove the one from the 2j, broke that so just bought a new one. Parts bad out of the box aren't that uncommon so ill try it!
does anyone know how to test the IGF signal?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

It is almost never the actual igniter. Wouldn't have made it around the block unless the IGF wire was loose at the ecu or ignitor, then it could be possible to randomly happen I guess.
The only other thing it sounds like is actually pretty common and that is the fuel ecu. look into the 12v fuel mod.
It controls the fuel pump coming on and off from ecu, and caps can go bad in those also and then it will work sometimes and then not, then it'll get worse and not work at all.
Try jumping +B and FP in the diagnostic port and see if the pump comes on, then try and start the car and see if it is any better. if it is then I would suspect the fuel ecu.
If you didn't buy the toyota or aisin part it could very well be the replacement coolant sensor also, but maybe check the fuel ecu cause it is easier just to rule it out.

Did you put a bigger fuel pump in with the swap? a TT denso fuel pump can draw enough amps to kill the n/a fuel ecu in a short amount of time.
Walboro you can get by with sometimes depending on the model, but that could be why it worked at first then failed.

Tlaurin3

Thank you for the response! We did jump the fp and b+ pins. Pump runs. We installed a walboro 255. Starting fluid does not seem to have any effect so it feels like its not just fuel. I did install the msd tach adapter at the igniter. The map and coolant sensors were eBay.

Additionally, there was rodent damage after the body harness extension but ive since repaired it.

I have a test light that goes down to 3v. Has anyone had luck checking cam and crank signals? I'll also be hooking up a check engine light but I can't seem to find a link that works to a website with codes. Anyone know what they are?

Thank you!

Tlaurin3

Alrighty!

So we got it running pretty well! Several things were found: the inside of the coil pack connectors were disintegrating (de pinned and plugged straight in til new connectors come), grounding issues and a bad MAP sensor. As stated, ill use this to document the continuing things so here goes:

Grounding was my own fault. Ecu ground points are all terminated to the engine. I only had my negative battery cable hooked to the engine. No negative to body or body to engine grounds
This was discovered by pulling a code 14 and finding the 5vDC signal to the igniter was only 2.7 vDC. I assume it ran well before because the middle of the neg cable has an eyelet that was probably touching the body.

Next, the MAP. Admittedly, 17 dollars on eBay sounds really sketchy and it surely was. Luckily I bought two and one is semi ok (I think)

Now onto the next things I need to sort out:
The oil light... looking at the wilbo666 drawings for the soarer 1jz (which he did buy[rear sump]) and the the Toyota fsm drawings for the sc300, it shows the pressure switch is pinned to the correct body harness pin/plug but it never goes away. I've seen posts of people having issues so I assume this isn't true. Can anyone confirm that something needs to be done to make this work? I know there is also an oil level switch but I don't the his sc300 has that light.

Next is the car stumbles around 5.5-6k rpms. This I do believe is the map sensor considering the crap its already given us. But I've also ready that adjusting the TPS is necessary quite a bit. Is it really as straightforward as feeler gauges and resistance?

Eventually, I think we will go with the driftmotion standalone ecu, considering a MAP is 300 bucks and it already has a 4 bar sensor.

Next, besides issues above, id like to see about getting the ac and heater working. Thanks you guys for the preceeding and next info!

Tlaurin3

Hey guys. No real update. We haven't had much time but he has just been putting the hood on and whatnot just getting it ready for the road.

Hoping to get to the bottom of this oil light situation. Im sure it has oil pressure and ill need to do someone thing with a different sensor to reconnect the ac.

Another random question is about an additional plug that I have no idea what it goes to. Someone said maybe a heater valve. I didn't pull the motor so I'm not too sure what was on the 2j. But it comes out about 12 inches shy of the end of the big conduit/bundle. Ill try to get pics!