View Poll Results: Built Auto Transmission or R154 Swap??
Built Auto
8
44.44%
R154
10
55.56%
Voters: 18. You may not vote on this poll
Poll: Built Auto or R154 swap??
#16
gte & na-t
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maryland /Germantown
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Grumpi, unless you're pushing a LOT of horsepower and slamming those gears instead of shifting very precisely before letting out the clutch you will probably be fine. I got mine out of a 111k mile MKIII Supra and I probably could have not bothered rebuilding it for turbo use. Since I bolted it to my NA engine I definitely went overkill. I think you'll be okay unless you really up the ante or start doing a lot of drifting at the track (which is where a lot of R154 abuse comes from. That and drag racing).
For transmission fluid, run ONLY Redline MT-90. Specifically that brand and type of oil. It's universally recommended for the R154 and will help with longevity and shift quality.
For transmission fluid, run ONLY Redline MT-90. Specifically that brand and type of oil. It's universally recommended for the R154 and will help with longevity and shift quality.
I don't have a special R154, I just take care of it, The trans has 89k miles .Few CL members have rode in my car..
I use the correct fluid and right amount so no issues.
I used the Redline Shockproof and it worked great , A local Subaru shop that rebuilds all the Supra 6speed and dog boxes told me to try that fluid.
#17
Moderator
iTrader: (5)
^^ You must if it's been treating you well this long I think some people just drive their manuals very hard and rough. I've read Shockproof works well too. The main recommendation is usually MT-90. I use Heavy Shockproof in my rear differential but I don't think that blend is recommended for W58/R154-- just the standard Shockproof (without any friction modifier additive). Correct me if I'm wrong?
#18
Thanks everyone for their input. I would put a 6spd in, except the fact that I just don't want to put another 10K+ into the car.
I will not track the car, and I have a 1JZ. So, I have serious doubts that I will push it beyond 600HP, if even that much. I would just hate to be on the cusp and have that in the back of my mind all the time when I want to get on it. I am kind of leaning towards the built auto just for the fact of simplicity. I just pull it, ship to, and then re-install it. No need to source parts (and hope they are good), then customize everything. Although a Marlin Crawler upgraded 5spd would probably be more than good enough for me. It would just be a hassle piecing everything together.
But, then, I also have resale value to think about if I ever go to sell it. My feeling is that 5spd is more sought after, but would a built auto also carry some weight??
Thanks again
I will not track the car, and I have a 1JZ. So, I have serious doubts that I will push it beyond 600HP, if even that much. I would just hate to be on the cusp and have that in the back of my mind all the time when I want to get on it. I am kind of leaning towards the built auto just for the fact of simplicity. I just pull it, ship to, and then re-install it. No need to source parts (and hope they are good), then customize everything. Although a Marlin Crawler upgraded 5spd would probably be more than good enough for me. It would just be a hassle piecing everything together.
But, then, I also have resale value to think about if I ever go to sell it. My feeling is that 5spd is more sought after, but would a built auto also carry some weight??
Thanks again
#19
Moderator
iTrader: (5)
^^ OP, go with the choice that you would enjoy most. Second to that, yes, an R154 swap will be more valued for resale down the road.
--Getting all the rebuild and upgrade parts is possible through Driftmotion. They have everything you need.
--Clutches... Southbend is a recommended one but there are plenty of others
--Rebuild labor rates through SFS in Georgia or Driftmotion in Cali is around $550-$600 as they are quoted on their respective sites. Jacks Transmissions is also a highly respected rebuilder-- don't recall their rate. Marlin Crawler is the most expensive rebuilder but they have the highest QC of the bunch (matters more for pure racing applications).
--If you are starting with an MKIII R154 you can still purchase the OEM extension housing and internal extended shift arm from importers, which would require an SC300 5-speed shifter or a SupraSport V3 shifter to work. Apart from that, DM will extend your MKIII housing and internal arm on a jig and that requires a Beech Performance straight shifter. Your choice for similar costs.
--MKIII R154 requires a couple of non-factory crossmember solutions or a kit DM sells.
All in all not as crazy as it sounds but choose which route you want based on what YOU want. Resale should be an afterthought with a car like this being built into a performance machine although, yes, the R154 manual gearbox is more of a plus on the used market.
--Getting all the rebuild and upgrade parts is possible through Driftmotion. They have everything you need.
--Clutches... Southbend is a recommended one but there are plenty of others
--Rebuild labor rates through SFS in Georgia or Driftmotion in Cali is around $550-$600 as they are quoted on their respective sites. Jacks Transmissions is also a highly respected rebuilder-- don't recall their rate. Marlin Crawler is the most expensive rebuilder but they have the highest QC of the bunch (matters more for pure racing applications).
--If you are starting with an MKIII R154 you can still purchase the OEM extension housing and internal extended shift arm from importers, which would require an SC300 5-speed shifter or a SupraSport V3 shifter to work. Apart from that, DM will extend your MKIII housing and internal arm on a jig and that requires a Beech Performance straight shifter. Your choice for similar costs.
--MKIII R154 requires a couple of non-factory crossmember solutions or a kit DM sells.
All in all not as crazy as it sounds but choose which route you want based on what YOU want. Resale should be an afterthought with a car like this being built into a performance machine although, yes, the R154 manual gearbox is more of a plus on the used market.
#20
Super Moderator
iTrader: (34)
Thanks everyone for their input. I would put a 6spd in, except the fact that I just don't want to put another 10K+ into the car.
I will not track the car, and I have a 1JZ. So, I have serious doubts that I will push it beyond 600HP, if even that much. I would just hate to be on the cusp and have that in the back of my mind all the time when I want to get on it. I am kind of leaning towards the built auto just for the fact of simplicity. I just pull it, ship to, and then re-install it. No need to source parts (and hope they are good), then customize everything. Although a Marlin Crawler upgraded 5spd would probably be more than good enough for me. It would just be a hassle piecing everything together.
But, then, I also have resale value to think about if I ever go to sell it. My feeling is that 5spd is more sought after, but would a built auto also carry some weight??
Thanks again
I will not track the car, and I have a 1JZ. So, I have serious doubts that I will push it beyond 600HP, if even that much. I would just hate to be on the cusp and have that in the back of my mind all the time when I want to get on it. I am kind of leaning towards the built auto just for the fact of simplicity. I just pull it, ship to, and then re-install it. No need to source parts (and hope they are good), then customize everything. Although a Marlin Crawler upgraded 5spd would probably be more than good enough for me. It would just be a hassle piecing everything together.
But, then, I also have resale value to think about if I ever go to sell it. My feeling is that 5spd is more sought after, but would a built auto also carry some weight??
Thanks again
A built R154 with a good single clutch will run you almost at the same price as a built ATF A340 not unless you are settling with a stock R154 from a MKIII which you can get for less than $1k but then as you said will need to piece it together like its bellhousing , shifter , tranny mount & others.
Get a transmission base on your intended use or what will make you happy and of course your budget. And regardless whether it is a built R154, built A340 or Stage 3 built V160, if you don't use it properly or take good care of it , it will go down the drain.
#21
gte & na-t
iTrader: (44)
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Thanks everyone for their input. I would put a 6spd in, except the fact that I just don't want to put another 10K+ into the car.
I. Although a Marlin Crawler upgraded 5spd would probably be more than good enough for me. It would just be a hassle piecing everything together.
But, then, I also have resale value to think about if I ever go to sell it. My feeling is that 5spd is more sought after, but would a built auto also carry some weight??
Thanks again
I. Although a Marlin Crawler upgraded 5spd would probably be more than good enough for me. It would just be a hassle piecing everything together.
But, then, I also have resale value to think about if I ever go to sell it. My feeling is that 5spd is more sought after, but would a built auto also carry some weight??
Thanks again
The other issue with the Toyota automagic is a few ems can actually control the line of pressure properly..
And with auto usually you will spend a good amount of money first to get things to work properly..Converter is the main issue when you are trying to make some decent power on the auto, the right Torque converter and the right turbo.
Im my opinion you always get more for 5 speed over the Toyota Auto, unless you have a Th400 or 4L80.
At the end its all comes down to personal preferences, and Auto swap is not cheap
#22
Super Moderator
iTrader: (34)
OP , if you decide for an R154 and want a stock MKIII R154 PM me... I will give you a local friend's number selling a stock MKIII R154 for $700 with a JZ bellhousing. For a built Auto tranny, just watch for them, As you have said, there was one zero miles ATF Tranny sold for $2120 shipped you almost bought. Deals are out there...just got to watch for them.
#23
Kahn, 99SC42, Gerrb, thanks for the advice, info, and time in replying. It's just funny because one week I have my mind 'made up" to go one way, then next week I change my mind haha. 99SC42, I will PM you, thanks. And Gerrb, I will let you know about the R154, I appreciate it!
Keith
Keith
#25
But I am thinking that there may actually be some advantages to keeping it to a 1JZ auto. One being that you avoid the electronic line pressure, which is a no-no when going standalone. The question is, is there an extra throttle cable wheel on the 2jzgte throttle body to accommodate the cable for 1JZ auto line pressure?
I would think that both 1JZ and 2JZ autos have similar internals, so should both be able to be built similarly with same power potential. Except that the 1JZ has a smaller torque converter. Does this smaller torque converter have any hindrance power potential?
#26
Super Moderator
iTrader: (34)
Thanks gerrb. I was not aware of these issues above 500rwhp until you mentioned it. This is yet another con added to the R154 equation side. I am heavily leaning towards the built auto (almost falling over lol). My next thing to look into for the built auto is the swap-ability of the 1JZ auto to the 2JZ, in case I ever wanted to go 2JZ in the future? gerrb, you have mentioned the option to just have a 2jzgte auto built, and then redo the wiring harness and run a 2jzgte ecu on my 1JZ, so that future 2JZ swap is seamless.
But I am thinking that there may actually be some advantages to keeping it to a 1JZ auto. One being that you avoid the electronic line pressure, which is a no-no when going standalone. The question is, is there an extra throttle cable wheel on the 2jzgte throttle body to accommodate the cable for 1JZ auto line pressure?
I would think that both 1JZ and 2JZ autos have similar internals, so should both be able to be built similarly with same power potential. Except that the 1JZ has a smaller torque converter. Does this smaller torque converter have any hindrance power potential?
But I am thinking that there may actually be some advantages to keeping it to a 1JZ auto. One being that you avoid the electronic line pressure, which is a no-no when going standalone. The question is, is there an extra throttle cable wheel on the 2jzgte throttle body to accommodate the cable for 1JZ auto line pressure?
I would think that both 1JZ and 2JZ autos have similar internals, so should both be able to be built similarly with same power potential. Except that the 1JZ has a smaller torque converter. Does this smaller torque converter have any hindrance power potential?
I am not a mechanic, guru , nor do I work on this industry . You probably even know more than I do. I am a mere DIY dude who probably is just a few pages ahead of some people here, lmaol. The best person to answer your question on converter or manual / electronic line pressure or 1jz /2jz tranny capability is Patrick of ATF. Call him, he will answer your questions. He is a very nice guy.
True, you need a good ECU to control the auto tranny. If I were you and funds is a concern for now , to save, this is what I will suggest, get a stock auto TT tranny that costs around $250...use it up to 500rwhp with 3 or 4 (am exaggerating but I myself have 3 big ones on my cars) transmission coolers. Heat is what kills the tranny . Then just get it rebuilt when it is gone. That saves you money for now. Before you know it , you won't even damage that stock TT tranny not unless you freaking abuse it .But be aware , it may give way anytime if you use that power always . I have a local friend at 550rwhp stock tranny daily driven 60 miles a day but with big tranny coolers. 3 years counting..still good tranny and you know he loves to play on the streets every now and then.,
Hey, I am not selling you any TT tranny so don't think of it as the reason why I am favouring TT auto tranny. In fact I bought that zero miles ATF Built Auto Tranny you said didn't buy.... since it was such a good deal at $2120 shipped, hahaha, your lost . You snooze , you loose . It is still your call , manual or auto tranny. It all depends on whether you want to manually shift or not. It's your car , do whatever will make you happy and what your budget can do and not what others say.
Last edited by gerrb; 03-22-15 at 09:43 AM.
#27
lmaol, man, I mentioned it on my first post on this thread..."tranny fluid leaks" ! I said it because you said 600rwhp and wanted a cushion ...... reason why I chose Built Auto Tranny on your poll. But you never know you might be one of the few lucky ones who will not experience the dreaded leaks .
I am not a mechanic, guru , nor do I work on this industry . You probably even know more than I do. I am a mere DIY dude who probably is just a few pages ahead of some people here, lmaol. The best person to answer your question on converter or manual / electronic line pressure or 1jz /2jz tranny capability is Patrick of ATF. Call him, he will answer your questions. He is a very nice guy.
True, you need a good ECU to control the auto tranny. If I were you and funds is a concern for now , to save, this is what I will suggest, get a stock auto TT tranny that costs around $250...use it up to 500rwhp with 3 or 4 (am exaggerating but I myself have 3 big ones on my cars) transmission coolers. Heat is what kills the tranny . Then just get it rebuilt when it is gone. That saves you money for now. Before you know it , you won't even damage that stock TT tranny not unless you freaking abuse it .But be aware , it may give way anytime if you use that power always . I have a local friend at 550rwhp stock tranny daily driven 60 miles a day but with big tranny coolers. 3 years counting..still good tranny and you know he loves to play on the streets every now and then.,
Hey, I am not selling you any TT tranny so don't think of it as the reason why I am favouring TT auto tranny. In fact I bought that zero miles ATF Built Auto Tranny you said didn't buy.... since it was such a good deal at $2120 shipped, hahaha, your lost . You snooze , you loose . It is still your call , manual or auto tranny. It all depends on whether you want to manually shift or not. It's your car , do whatever will make you happy and what your budget can do and not what others say.
I am not a mechanic, guru , nor do I work on this industry . You probably even know more than I do. I am a mere DIY dude who probably is just a few pages ahead of some people here, lmaol. The best person to answer your question on converter or manual / electronic line pressure or 1jz /2jz tranny capability is Patrick of ATF. Call him, he will answer your questions. He is a very nice guy.
True, you need a good ECU to control the auto tranny. If I were you and funds is a concern for now , to save, this is what I will suggest, get a stock auto TT tranny that costs around $250...use it up to 500rwhp with 3 or 4 (am exaggerating but I myself have 3 big ones on my cars) transmission coolers. Heat is what kills the tranny . Then just get it rebuilt when it is gone. That saves you money for now. Before you know it , you won't even damage that stock TT tranny not unless you freaking abuse it .But be aware , it may give way anytime if you use that power always . I have a local friend at 550rwhp stock tranny daily driven 60 miles a day but with big tranny coolers. 3 years counting..still good tranny and you know he loves to play on the streets every now and then.,
Hey, I am not selling you any TT tranny so don't think of it as the reason why I am favouring TT auto tranny. In fact I bought that zero miles ATF Built Auto Tranny you said didn't buy.... since it was such a good deal at $2120 shipped, hahaha, your lost . You snooze , you loose . It is still your call , manual or auto tranny. It all depends on whether you want to manually shift or not. It's your car , do whatever will make you happy and what your budget can do and not what others say.
THANKS again for all of your insight
Keith
#28
Super Moderator
iTrader: (34)
^^^ No problem Keith , any time.
This build link below can be a good read, a local gal with a MKIV. Not that it will last cause IT WILL NOT for a long time !!! Kaw dynoed her car with STOCK TT Auto tranny at 650rwhp. She was actually expecting to call a tow truck to bring the car home, lol, but it survived. I just do not know how often or how she uses that MKIV but it was good till she sold it as far as I know.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ACE-T6-GT4788R
Honestly, I myself wanted to try really how far will a stock tranny last , at what power. I just bought a TT auto tranny for $100 from our local craigs yesterday.
This build link below can be a good read, a local gal with a MKIV. Not that it will last cause IT WILL NOT for a long time !!! Kaw dynoed her car with STOCK TT Auto tranny at 650rwhp. She was actually expecting to call a tow truck to bring the car home, lol, but it survived. I just do not know how often or how she uses that MKIV but it was good till she sold it as far as I know.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ACE-T6-GT4788R
Honestly, I myself wanted to try really how far will a stock tranny last , at what power. I just bought a TT auto tranny for $100 from our local craigs yesterday.
#30