Scuper300

Anyone in the bay area that can lend me a hand with tuning map ecu? Ill pay for services. PM me plz. Thanx

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

map ecu tuning is not terribly difficult. I have mapecu3 on my 1J. What are you having problems with?

you pretty much just start out with a base map and fine tune it. I am running 440 injectors and single 70mm turbo. I have the IAT compensation disabled so that the IAT comp is done in stock ecu. Same for Baro compensation. I have stock O2 sensor removed so that I am not battling with the stock ecu fuel trims which were giving me problems last season, and it ran pretty good. I am using two fuel maps. 1 fuel map is for my startup which is when the stock ecu adds fuel enrichment. Then after the car warms up and stock ecu stops enrichment, I switch to the other map which is about 5% more rich across the board than the first map.

I don't have any timing map adjustments, I let the stock ecu manage that.

Map ecu is a good platform, and probably the closest that you will get to a stand alone. But you are limited in allowable injector size, and you almost need to have two maps, otherwise you will be driving extremely rich until the stock ecu stops enrichment (assuming you have larger than stock injectors).

Give me some details and I should be able to help you out. Also, map ecu has a forum and MapECUMan is very good at getting back to you and helping his customers out.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Curious how you have the map ecu setup to switch fuel maps? How does it know that it's at full operating temps? This makes sense because the car needs a lot less fuel to idle when at operating temp versus when starting. Is it to lean when starting the car cold with one map tuned at operating temp ?

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Map ecu has a primary and secondary map function, that is selectable with a switch to one of the digital inputs. The map ecu does not do the switching, I have a switch that I have to flick when I start to see my wideband increasing. That's how I know the stock ecu is lessening enrichment.

That is the only thing that the map ecu is missing, a coolant temp sensor function. MapECUMan advised me that that will be in the next release though. That should be interesting.

If I have the map tuned at operating temp, then it is super rich at cold start because the map ecu does not know that stock ecu is adding fuel enrichment because it does not have a coolant temp function (yet). So I have to have a "leaner" map for startup. That's always a problem with a "piggy back" ecu though. Your stock ecu has no idea that have larger injectors, and it will apply that same enrichment map to your larger injectors, and will hence run really rich

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Looks like coolant temperature compensation is a feature being added shortly in the mapecu 3.5 update!

http://www.mapecu.com/2015/01/mapcal3-v3-5-flex-fuel/

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Awesome! I haven't checked back there in a while. I will definitely be spending some time in the spring on this!!

Scuper300

Car is an auto. Afrs seem to never be consistent. Lately, for the past few days, ive been able to keep the afrs within stoich which im satisfied with at idle and cruise. Problem im having is that the afrs get locked in when I do fine adjustments, but then they vary after a drive. I dont have an o2 sensor either running an aristo ecu. Was really set on going standalone hoping that would solve my issues but youre saying yours has been pretty good so might give the map ecu1 another try.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, give the Map ECU another try. You should be able to get it. Mine runs good. Not perfect, but I'm never lean and right around mid 11's through boost, so that's all I care about. Map ECU is cool because it's easy to tune yourself. If you go standalone, you're looking at $1K for the ECU, and then probably $600 for first tune, and then have to re-tune every time you make changes. But it all depends on what your goals are too. Map ECU can handle up to 2x stock injector size. After that, it gets hard to dial in the low end because of resolution.

With any piggy back, it's hard to dial in perfect because you will always be fighting the stock ECU. Trust me bud, you will want to have 2 maps. The reason why your AFR's are all over the place is because you have a couple scenario's that you have to tune for:

Cold start enrichment (open loop): When the ecu sees that engine is cold, it will enrich the fuel to help protect the engine. As the engine warms up, it will decrease fuel enrichment until the engine reaches full operating temp, at which point it will cease enrichment and start to look at the O2 sensor to trim fuel to ideal levels (closed loop). I know that you and I both do not have the O2 sensor connected, so essentially should always be in open loop. So if you only have 1 map, and you happened to tune that map while the engine was at operating temp, then you are going to have very rich AFR's on a cold start, because your tune doesn't account for all of the extra fuel that the stock ECU is putting in during enrichment. This will compound if you are running larger than stock injectors too.. Now on the other hand, if you happened to tune the map while the stock ECU was adding fuel enrichment, then once the car warms up to operating temp, your AFR's will be really lean.

So, what I suggest you do is have 2 maps. The first map, tune it as soon as you start the car for the first time that day. That will be your enrichment map. You want AFRs to be around 12-12.5 after about the first minute after startup. Then, as the car warms up, you will notice the AFR's start to gradually rise. Your second map, tune it to about 8% more fuel across the whole map. That will give you a decent starting point for when the stock ECU ceases enrichment. Then tune that second map with the car at 100% operating temp.

For my 1JZ, I have the cold map tuned for like I said around 12.5 in the very beginning. Then, it gradually increases and I will cruise at around high 13's until the stock ECU stops enrichment. At which point I will notice my AFR's in the mid 15's. That's when I know that the stock ECU is done, and I flip the switch to my other map.

This is what works for me.

Now that the coolant temp function is out, I will play around with that and see if I can incorporate the engine temp into the tune so that I only need one map.

Scuper300

Well thanks for the help buddy it really does make me feel a little better about my tune. The cold start enrichment you described definately happens. I guess perhaps im overreacting. I came from other cars that would always have a 14.4-15.1 afrs constantly during idle and cruise. I believe map ecu1 doesn't have the ability for dual maps with the flick of a button so Im gona have to just deal with the cold start. There was one incident in particular that really scared me and made me want to go standalone. I drove the car to pump fuel, once i drove out from there, there was a hill and i felt my car misfire a little, on the way down from the hill, car afrs hit 10.0 for the duration of the hill. At that time, car started smoking alot, black smoke and was undriveable. Then afrs went lean and the afrs were doing the opposite functions. When i hit on the throttle the afrs would lean out and when i let go of throttle they would richen up. That much fuel washed my cyl walls and blue smoke came out. No damage was done mechanically nor anything changed only on the map exu. I disconnected battery, and map ecu and started all over. Car never smoked again and the afrs I have now are what ive been dealing with. Sorry for long post but I thought maybe this experience is a little helpful to diagnose my situation, if any.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I have used the map ecu with the JDM supra 2jzgte ecu and it works just fine, I leave the o2 sensor and temp sensor connected because the gte ecu generally goes to the right afr's since its a turbo ecu, I would not do that though on a 2jzge ecu, in fact I wouldn't use a map ecu on a 2jzge ecu (its terrible).

If you want to change the afr's from the stock gte ecu aims for all across the board (idle, cruise, acellerating, boost)... then yes, disconnect the o2 sensor.
If you have the o2 sensor connected then the only thing you can tune is WOT in boost (open loop).

just depends on what you are using the car for. for the track I would disconnect o2 sensor and leave temp sensor in, and tune it rich all across the board.
For a street car I would try and keep the o2 in and just tune the WOT. if it was having trouble at that point like during spool up (when its still in closed loop for a sec) then disconnect the o2 and tune those out.

Scuper300

Anyone with an auto using map ecu, what are your afrs at idle in gear with foot on brake? Are they supposed to be richer then in neutral? If so by how much? Also, on a light light cruise will afrs richen after releasing gas pedal slowly and then come to the afrs that are present stopped with gear in drive?

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Hey, not a problem bud. I'm glad to be able to help. Sorry, didn't realize MapECU1 doesn't have the map switch function, that sucks. If that is the case, then as Ali suggested, your best bet is probably to try and hook up the O2 sensor. I just left mine off and found a different solution because it is a real bear when you are fighting the stock ECU fuel trims. If you are going to reconnect the O2 sensor, then you should first tune the car at operating temp with the O2 sensor disconnected. Try to get the tune to as close to stock as possible. This way, when you do connect the O2 sensor back in, the stock ECU fuel trims will be minimal. Your driving scenario just seems like the tune needs to be dialed in. When you are going up and down a hill, your vacuum obviously changes quite a bit. There should be less vacuum (approaching 0) as you are climbing the hill, and when going down the hill, you should be almost at max vacuum (assuming you are coasting or idling down the hill). I keep my laptop in my trunk and I have a cigarette lighter AC adapter to power it just in case for something like that.

I have an auto, but I can't recall the AFR difference between neutral and on brake in drive. They should be relatively close to each other (assuming car is at operating temp and idle RPM is same as neutral RPM) on the fuel map, except that maybe on brake in drive would be a little bit higher on the boost axis since the engine is loaded. Get connected to the map ecu and then click the follow me button to see what points on the map you are on at both instances

Edit: Forgot to answer your last question regarding letting off pedal slowly. If you let off of the pedal slowly, it should just follow your map.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the last part makes me think your tps is in the wrong position. in the right position it should go full lean after letting off, then slowly come back to idle afr. when it gets rich and comes to idle afr that means the fuel cut on deceleration isn'y working and thats why its rich, cause you are accelerating and you do not need fuel, only problem is the ecu won't know that if the tps is in the wrong position.
It could also be a bad tps, or it just needs to be set like in the manual.

Scuper300

Well it happened today again, fortunately I had my laptop with me. I turned the car on and the afrs acted like they shouldve until car is fully warm that they stabilize. Well, they didnt. They were rich the whole time. Car started smoking black pretty bad. So i pulled my laptop and adjusted the afrs at idle, and got them right. Decided to cancel what i was doing and drove home instead of trying to deal with it at night. The drive was fine just slightly more rich. I adjusted them at cruise and everything was fine. I got home and turned car off. Decided to turn car on for the hell of it and now afrs were really lean at idle. Had to readjust the afrs slightly now car runs like it was running before. I decided to just **** it and buy a standalone and hopefully i can get the car running perfect.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Bummer!! What standalone did you go with?