Need help please! car acting very strange!
01-24-15, 12:06 PM
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Need help please! car acting very strange!
Hello everyone, I just joined the page a couple days ago and need some help. So heres the story, about a 2 months ago I was driving one day and came to a stop, just another normal day (owned the car for 2 weeks at that point and had no signs of problems whatsoever). When I went to accelerate it seemed as if the car bogged alittle then all of a sudden the CEL came on and car start bogging like crazy everytime I gave gas and wouldn't go past 2k rpms and if I would stop it was idle ver very rough and turn off or almost turn off. I got the car home and checked EVERYTHING I could ( I came from a Honda and know very little of this car) and nothing. Started to do some research and figured it was the MAF sensor and read if I unplugged it and the car worked fine then it was the sensor. I drove around without it until the new one came in and once it came I put it on and sure enough drove the car down the block and same problem again.... so I unplugged the MAF sensor for the time being once again and its been great. about a week ago I went to some meets with the friends and the car was perfect till then (maybe im stupid I agree) but I raced a couple of times since I couldn't help it and on the way home car started doing the SAME but on the highway and this time MAF sensor not even plugged in. Got the car home and next day drove to school with no problem. have been hesitant to drive the car a lot since I figured it happens when I drive it a lot but today I decided to cruise around for awhile and do some pulls to see if the problem was still there and sure enough as I was done ready to park the car same thing happened again. I need help as it is my daily and I don't want this to happen while I am out, I have searched and searched anf found nothing. I ran the codes and gave me 13,24,31 which is why I thought it was the MAF but obviously not, my car is a 92 sc400 please if anyone has suggestions lmk the problem is annoying and makes me very hesitant to drive the car. thank you. car also has 159k miles
01-24-15, 08:29 PM
#3
Code is usually dead on. ECU is less likely to go bad just like that unless it has been tampered with before. If you can borrow a MAF, i'd try that first then try borrowing the ECU too if your friend would let you or go to a local pickup part yard and get it from there. You can haggle with those guys for the price.... good luck.
01-25-15, 07:47 AM
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Thanks a lot guys! will forsure check out the ecu as I haven't really looked into that, as I said already checked the maf but that doesn't seem to be the problem, just gets worse with it plugged in and doesn't have a problem with it unplugged until I have driven the car for awhile without stopping so I was thinking maybe temp sensor?? but gonna replace ecu first and see what happens
01-25-15, 03:43 PM
#5
Code is usually dead on. ECU is less likely to go bad just like that unless it has been tampered with before. If you can borrow a MAF, i'd try that first then try borrowing the ECU too if your friend would let you or go to a local pickup part yard and get it from there. You can haggle with those guys for the price.... good luck.
Also, the ECU is more likely to go bad just from age then being tampered with. Over time the capacitors leak gel and corrode, which introduces the havoc on the car.
01-27-15, 06:31 PM
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Anybody have any other ideas what it might be?? ordered a new ecu but just wanna see if theres a chance might be something else... Car acts perfect until its been driving and warmed up for awhile then starts acting up out of nowhere
01-27-15, 08:48 PM
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If you guys can please watch the video in the link that it EXACTLY the problem I am having once the car gets warmed up and it was happening first with the MAF sensor on with the car warm or cold and now without the MAF sensor it only happens when the car is driven for alittle and warmed up. Any help? also ive noticed when I let the car cool down for a bit after it happens the car starts up fine and drives perfect again until it gets more warmed up.... suspecting more the temp sensor anyone???
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01-28-15, 12:59 PM
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It runs without it unplugged but then starts to act up after its been driven around, soon as I plug the MAF in it starts sputtering and turns off and a used one but it was very clean and I cleaned it more before I put it in and hmmm how can I check the idle is in spec?
01-28-15, 09:39 PM
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ok so I ran I diagnostic test again with the MAF plugged in and it threw only codes 13 and 24, does this mean the MAF is fine? and im going to check temp sensor next
01-28-15, 10:24 PM
#12
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I hope no one has used a MAF cleaner.
I had a rip in the in take rubber hose, between the the MAF and the engine block. That was letting in un-metered air and CEL lit up after few minutes of driving. So I taped it up and the code went away. Got a replacement hose and every thing is fine. I hope your problem is as easy as mine was.
Good luck.
Salim
I had a rip in the in take rubber hose, between the the MAF and the engine block. That was letting in un-metered air and CEL lit up after few minutes of driving. So I taped it up and the code went away. Got a replacement hose and every thing is fine. I hope your problem is as easy as mine was.
Good luck.
Salim
01-29-15, 11:22 AM
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I hope no one has used a MAF cleaner.
I had a rip in the in take rubber hose, between the the MAF and the engine block. That was letting in un-metered air and CEL lit up after few minutes of driving. So I taped it up and the code went away. Got a replacement hose and every thing is fine. I hope your problem is as easy as mine was.
Good luck.
Salim
I had a rip in the in take rubber hose, between the the MAF and the engine block. That was letting in un-metered air and CEL lit up after few minutes of driving. So I taped it up and the code went away. Got a replacement hose and every thing is fine. I hope your problem is as easy as mine was.
Good luck.
Salim
01-29-15, 02:19 PM
#14
code 24 might be related to the rip on your intake, or even an exhaust leak before the o2 sensors, something which affects the closed loop mixture and is causing that stalling.
code 13 though is no rpm signal which is much worse.
That basically means the rpm signal or crank sensor signal is dropping out.
On sc400's, one of the crank sensor or cam sensor wires (can't remember) runs down the front of the engine by all the accessories on the front of the engine. it is a known problem that sometimes the wire gets a little loose and the accessory belt can start to make contact with it. I would definitely check this out as it could explain the code 13.
check out this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...is-please.html
when was the last time the timing belt was done, if its ignored for a long time it could have had the timing belt skip a few teeth.
I would line the motor up to TDC and check the cam marks are still in line.
when you disconnect the maf you are in open loop which means you also do not get full timing advance, so that could be making it stall also when connected.
the code 24 is likely some sort of leak as said above.
the last code 31 comes from unplugging your maf, and it is normal for the early year sc400's to run fine and in alot of cases better with the maf disconnected. its normal, it does not mean the maf is bad, it just puts the ecu in such a safe mode where its basically not using half the sensors so it seems to run better and feel a little faster.
code 13 though is no rpm signal which is much worse.
That basically means the rpm signal or crank sensor signal is dropping out.
On sc400's, one of the crank sensor or cam sensor wires (can't remember) runs down the front of the engine by all the accessories on the front of the engine. it is a known problem that sometimes the wire gets a little loose and the accessory belt can start to make contact with it. I would definitely check this out as it could explain the code 13.
check out this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...is-please.html
when was the last time the timing belt was done, if its ignored for a long time it could have had the timing belt skip a few teeth.
I would line the motor up to TDC and check the cam marks are still in line.
when you disconnect the maf you are in open loop which means you also do not get full timing advance, so that could be making it stall also when connected.
the code 24 is likely some sort of leak as said above.
the last code 31 comes from unplugging your maf, and it is normal for the early year sc400's to run fine and in alot of cases better with the maf disconnected. its normal, it does not mean the maf is bad, it just puts the ecu in such a safe mode where its basically not using half the sensors so it seems to run better and feel a little faster.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-29-15 at 02:27 PM.
01-30-15, 04:39 PM
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code 24 might be related to the rip on your intake, or even an exhaust leak before the o2 sensors, something which affects the closed loop mixture and is causing that stalling.
code 13 though is no rpm signal which is much worse.
That basically means the rpm signal or crank sensor signal is dropping out.
On sc400's, one of the crank sensor or cam sensor wires (can't remember) runs down the front of the engine by all the accessories on the front of the engine. it is a known problem that sometimes the wire gets a little loose and the accessory belt can start to make contact with it. I would definitely check this out as it could explain the code 13.
check out this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...is-please.html
when was the last time the timing belt was done, if its ignored for a long time it could have had the timing belt skip a few teeth.
I would line the motor up to TDC and check the cam marks are still in line.
when you disconnect the maf you are in open loop which means you also do not get full timing advance, so that could be making it stall also when connected.
the code 24 is likely some sort of leak as said above.
the last code 31 comes from unplugging your maf, and it is normal for the early year sc400's to run fine and in alot of cases better with the maf disconnected. its normal, it does not mean the maf is bad, it just puts the ecu in such a safe mode where its basically not using half the sensors so it seems to run better and feel a little faster.
code 13 though is no rpm signal which is much worse.
That basically means the rpm signal or crank sensor signal is dropping out.
On sc400's, one of the crank sensor or cam sensor wires (can't remember) runs down the front of the engine by all the accessories on the front of the engine. it is a known problem that sometimes the wire gets a little loose and the accessory belt can start to make contact with it. I would definitely check this out as it could explain the code 13.
check out this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...is-please.html
when was the last time the timing belt was done, if its ignored for a long time it could have had the timing belt skip a few teeth.
I would line the motor up to TDC and check the cam marks are still in line.
when you disconnect the maf you are in open loop which means you also do not get full timing advance, so that could be making it stall also when connected.
the code 24 is likely some sort of leak as said above.
the last code 31 comes from unplugging your maf, and it is normal for the early year sc400's to run fine and in alot of cases better with the maf disconnected. its normal, it does not mean the maf is bad, it just puts the ecu in such a safe mode where its basically not using half the sensors so it seems to run better and feel a little faster.