salimshah

I have done fairly complex wrenching, but I am stumped by a relatively simple process. Seems simple but I have ripped up the intake hose during disassembly/assembly.

What is the best way to create flexible length.

Engine block:
Hold down bolt near the firewall.& Clamp on the intake. [I will call it the long piece] (yes I, removed the bolt and loosened the clamp).

Hose:
Two clamps. (yes I loosened the clamps)

Flow-meter & Filter box:
Three hold down bolts. (yes I removed all three)

Snout:
One short bolt that holds the filter box to the snout at the boundary of the engine bay and front inner grill. (Yes I removed the bolt).

All this created a small amount of linear play but not enough to disconnect the filter from the snout or any section inbetween.

So I lifted the assembly from the middle the intake came apart by elongating the hose orifice on the long piece connection.

The same hole ripped during assembly.

Q. Should I remove the engine end and thus create an option to increase the length?
or
Should I be removing the snout ... there is a bolt that I can on the inner grill ,,, would I need to remove more stuff.
or
The hose is supposed to be flexible and it ripped because it has become brittle over time.


Salim

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

That accordion hose is a common point of failure. Fortunately, you can buy no-name replacements for $12-13 on eBay that are a perfect fit. The big air hose going to the IAC Valve can also be pretty tough to remove. I replaced mine since I really didn't want to break the plastic barb. I haven't been impressed by the durability of Toyota plastics...

It sounds like you found all the fasteners. When everything wiggles about a bit, you pretty much know you've got them all! With the hose clamp loosened at the throttle body, give the intake a solid tug and it should pop off. Once that end is loose, you'll be able to pull the front end out of the snorkel below the headlight.

salimshah

Thanks for confirming that there is no better way.

Salim

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I just remembered another minor thing. It'll catch on the bottom of the cruise control cover when you try to lift the intake out. The CC cover is held on by three clips that release when you pull up on it.

If you get rid of the plastic resonator on the bottom of the intake elbow, replace the accordion hose with one that isn't rigid and brittle, and remove the CC cover, it's a piece of cake to slide the whole thing in and out. Otherwise, you have to finesse it quite a bit until finding the right angles for everything.

salimshah

Ok, I figured it out ... it was simple.

Remove all the bolts and loosen the clamps.

Slide the hose all the way to the air filter side.

Push the bellows as much as you can towards the air filter. You will clear part of the hard intake.

Now spin/rotate the bellows. As you spin the air hose, more of it will start getting on the hard intake.

Match the dot with the hole in the clamp and tighten every thing down.


Salim

sparkyguy

I have a similar air Intake removal problems on '93 SC400 V8 and did not see another thread on the exact issue I'm having removing my throttle body.

I need to replace both valve cover gaskets but the passenger side is not cooperating.
Driver's side OK, but on the passenger side it appears I need to remove the throttle body to access one of the valve cover bolts. I've removed all the supply-side hoses OK and removed the nuts that hold the throttle body to the engine plenum. I've disconnected all connectors on TPS, etc. However I can't slide the throttle body off the studs. It looks like there is a semi-rigid hose on the bottom that extends down into the valve cover (PVC ??). In any case, I can't see how to remove the throttle body from the hose and I can't get the hose out without removing the throttle body.

What is the proper steps to remove the throttle body from the plenum?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I don't know about "proper steps," but good luck getting those $*%! coolant bypass hoses off the throttle body intact. Just figuring out an angle to access the hose clamps will make you curse the engineers. And if you do manage to get them off, forget about ever getting them back on. Even fresh hoses are a near impossibility in that space. My advice would be to just cut the hoses (make sure you know what is what!) for easy TB removal, then bypass it with a new hose straight between the two coolant barbs so you never have to mess with that nonsense again. The only good reason I've ever read for not doing so is if you're in a severely cold climate that might alllow the throttle plate to ice up without coolant circulation.

sparkyguy

Thanks for the reply t2d2.
If you are referring to the small hoses (mixture of rubber and a short metal ones about 1/2" dia.), I got them off after a LOT of struggling. During reassembly, I intended on replacing the mess with a single length of rubber tubing. My problem is the larger one (approx 3/4" or 20 mm) BELOW the throttle body. The throttle body covers the hose clamps so tightly at both ends that I can't get to the clamps to remove them . . . . and I can't remove the throttle body without removing the clamps. If I cut the hose, how do I reinstall a replacement? It looks like there isn't room to tighten replacement clamps below the throttle body, even if I use S/S screw-type band-clamps.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Ah. I recall that one being quite tough, as well. I think I got it with a combination of needle nose pliers and a long, flat head screwdriver to slowly wiggle the clamp away from the barb while pinching it as much as possible. I replaced it with screw clamps and situated them at an angle I could somewhat access. I know I shredded the hose in the process of getting it off the barbs -- even with the clamps removed, it still put up a huge fight -- because I remember having to try a few replacement hoses to try and match the diameter and curve in that ridiculously tight space.

sparkyguy

I'm about ready to give up..
CAN the throttle body be removed without removing it complete WITH the entire downstream air box/plenum? I'm 99% sure I've removed everything holding mine in place, but when I slide it about 1/4" down the studs, it seems to be hitting something on the lower firewall-side. The interference is just out of my view, but I can hear it "clunk" when I try to slide it off the studs.

I cannot find ANYTHING helpful on other internet sites and I don't have access to a full shop manual or All-Data.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

"CAN the throttle body be removed without removing it complete WITH the entire downstream air box/plenum?"

I've read that half a dozen times and can't quite figure out what you mean... Are you trying to do all that with the air intake still connected to the TB? You'll have a lot more room to get at the hoses below the TB if the air intake is disconnected, as outlined at the start of this thread.

sparkyguy

Sorry to be confusing.
I should have started a new thread, but my question seemed to follow the title of the OP thread name.

No, I am NOT trying to remove anything with the intake-side stuff still attached. I was able to remove everything without issues up TO the throttle body.

To clarify (I hope),
My question is how to THEN remove the metallic throttle body itself from the downstream plenum (engine-side manifold). I believe I have all bolts on the TB removed, coolant hoses disconnected, vacuum lines disconnected and all 3 throttle cables disconnected. The TB is now very loose, but when I try to pull it off the 2 studs (on the side of the plenum), it will only move about 1/4" before it hits something I cannot see.

Does this clarify??
My sincere apologies.. I can follow with pictures if necessary.

I've repaired clocks that weren't this difficult to disassemble.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Assuming you got the big air hose (crank case ventilation?) off the bottom of the TB, it sounds like you got everything. The only other thing I can think of that might be holding it up is if it's pinching against the threads on the two fixed studs, but that would probably be obvious. Aside from the various hoses and cables, it should just be the two nuts (for the studs) and two bolts holding it on. Unless I'm forgetting something...

If they were intent on having all those hoses connect to the TB, they should have made them side attachment points instead of trying to cleverly pack everything out of sight down below. Do just like the PCV hose on the other side. Wear items should always be designed with easy access in mind! I have equal parts love for the car and hate for the people who built it.

sparkyguy

Got it to move enough for what I'm doing.
Thanks for keeping me thinking t2d2.

Instead of SLIDING the TB off of the two top studs, my solution was to temporarily "double-nut" the studs (jamming one against the other) so I could unscrew the stud out of plenum/manifold entirely. Now, I can directly move the TB up a bit (out of the way) giving me my needed clearance below the TB..

My reason for all of this was to get to the last valve cover bolt which is hidden underneath that large rubber hose below the TB. By shifting the entire TB up a 1/2" or so, I should be able to snake a socket, extension & swivel underneath the TB to the bolt.

Thankfully, the bottom two fasteners for the TB were actual bolts (not studs). When they were removed it didn't leave a stud shaft in the way. I'd love to read how the actual Shop Manual says to get to that last valve cover bolt, but I should be good from here.