na-t or 1jzgte automatic
09-25-14, 07:02 PM
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na-t or 1jzgte automatic
I have a 92 sc300 with a automatic transmission. I hear that na-t build better, but the 1jzgte is easier and cheaper. I wanna build the car to have about 300 whp and keep it automatic. So my question is which would be easier to have 300 whp. I seen alot of 1jzgte auto on eBay for about 1300. So what parts would I need to get the job done. I know I'm a noob so I'm asking for people honest opinions.
09-25-14, 07:55 PM
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...parts-buy.html
But yes, if you're looking for an easier job, the 1jz swap is as close as it gets to plug and play, and you can reach 300hp pretty easily on stock twins if you get the right engine/tuning.
Good luck!
09-26-14, 12:20 AM
#5
^^ This. For your goal, OP, a 1JZ auto swap is the most straightforward and cheapest. A 1JZ VVT-i Automatic is also not a bad option but the older version is certainly the cheapest. Read up about both versions of the engine.
NA-T will cost more in the long run to do it right and is best for a higher power goal from the very start.
NA-T will cost more in the long run to do it right and is best for a higher power goal from the very start.
09-26-14, 04:38 AM
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Thanks alot everyone. I also been reading up on this 1jzgte auto swap. Is there a certain 1jzgte I should get, jdm or usdm model to work for my sc300. I read there are different model types.
09-26-14, 08:05 AM
#7
1jz is only JDM.
you generally want one from a SOARER non-vvti to be the easiest swap. this harness just needs to be extended to work in our cars.
If you get one from a CHASER you will have much more wiring (not a simple extending) and have to change the oil pan out to a rear sump, probably some other small stuff.
and if you get a VVTI version then the wiring will be much harder than the 2 above, but some like the vvti motors better as they come with a single turbo vs twins, and they make good power with the vvti. also they are newer so they are usually in better shape. so its a trade-off there are a lot of choices out there.
I suggest checking out the build section on here to get an idea of what you like and what you are in for.
you generally want one from a SOARER non-vvti to be the easiest swap. this harness just needs to be extended to work in our cars.
If you get one from a CHASER you will have much more wiring (not a simple extending) and have to change the oil pan out to a rear sump, probably some other small stuff.
and if you get a VVTI version then the wiring will be much harder than the 2 above, but some like the vvti motors better as they come with a single turbo vs twins, and they make good power with the vvti. also they are newer so they are usually in better shape. so its a trade-off there are a lot of choices out there.
I suggest checking out the build section on here to get an idea of what you like and what you are in for.
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09-26-14, 08:43 AM
#8
Im shocked that everyone is jumping to the 1JZ when 300hp is simple on an na-t. Stock compression on the 2J, with an SAFC and 9-10psi calculates to roughly 300-315rwhp, and only a few wires to hook up. Not to mention, IMO, its far easier to put a turbo on, than swap engines.
I guess the question is going to be, is it safe with the stock auto? I beat the crap out of my stock auto when I was na-t from 9psi up to 12psi, stock compression (never even changed the head-gasket), stock auto, etc. for about a year or so daily driven.
I guess the question is going to be, is it safe with the stock auto? I beat the crap out of my stock auto when I was na-t from 9psi up to 12psi, stock compression (never even changed the head-gasket), stock auto, etc. for about a year or so daily driven.
09-26-14, 09:54 AM
#9
well turbodremz in my experience when someone asks what is easier, they are in 1jz swap territory.
for those who have never messed with turbo's before setting up an na-t properly can become a nightmare.
oil line this, union bolt that, slotting holes on a manifold (OMG tell me it aint so I dont have a drill and 5 minutes to do that), the intake pipe wont clear the distributor, why do I need to get rid of the distributor, why doesnt the 4runner cap work right, why should I go to coilpacks, how do I install a map sensor and IAT when I go aem, how do I get my aem to start... you really have to learn alot of stuff when going na-t.
to put in a Soarer 1jz you have to be familiar with yanking an engine, hooking up the usual lines, and extending the harness a few feet (anyone can do it patiently). then you get all the turbo benifits without having to learn anything about a turbo, which is why its the easiest.
The 2jzgte from a mk4 is not that much harder if you pay to have a harness made, but its not the cheapest thats for sure.
If the OP has experience with turbo's and feels comfortable installing a kit, well thats the way to go the only way I would give up .5L of displacement would be for the vvti 1JZ and it would have to be in a lighter chassis I feel like our cars need as much displacement as they can get. In fact I would love to drive a 3.4L stroker GTE and see how it pulls =)
Also makes me wonder who has done a 3.4L na-t or if it has ever been done before.
for those who have never messed with turbo's before setting up an na-t properly can become a nightmare.
oil line this, union bolt that, slotting holes on a manifold (OMG tell me it aint so I dont have a drill and 5 minutes to do that), the intake pipe wont clear the distributor, why do I need to get rid of the distributor, why doesnt the 4runner cap work right, why should I go to coilpacks, how do I install a map sensor and IAT when I go aem, how do I get my aem to start... you really have to learn alot of stuff when going na-t.
to put in a Soarer 1jz you have to be familiar with yanking an engine, hooking up the usual lines, and extending the harness a few feet (anyone can do it patiently). then you get all the turbo benifits without having to learn anything about a turbo, which is why its the easiest.
The 2jzgte from a mk4 is not that much harder if you pay to have a harness made, but its not the cheapest thats for sure.
If the OP has experience with turbo's and feels comfortable installing a kit, well thats the way to go the only way I would give up .5L of displacement would be for the vvti 1JZ and it would have to be in a lighter chassis I feel like our cars need as much displacement as they can get. In fact I would love to drive a 3.4L stroker GTE and see how it pulls =)
Also makes me wonder who has done a 3.4L na-t or if it has ever been done before.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-26-14 at 09:58 AM.
09-26-14, 11:53 AM
#10
well turbodremz in my experience when someone asks what is easier, they are in 1jz swap territory.
for those who have never messed with turbo's before setting up an na-t properly can become a nightmare.
oil line this, union bolt that, slotting holes on a manifold (OMG tell me it aint so I dont have a drill and 5 minutes to do that), the intake pipe wont clear the distributor, why do I need to get rid of the distributor, why doesnt the 4runner cap work right, why should I go to coilpacks, how do I install a map sensor and IAT when I go aem, how do I get my aem to start... you really have to learn alot of stuff when going na-t.
to put in a Soarer 1jz you have to be familiar with yanking an engine, hooking up the usual lines, and extending the harness a few feet (anyone can do it patiently). then you get all the turbo benifits without having to learn anything about a turbo, which is why its the easiest.
The 2jzgte from a mk4 is not that much harder if you pay to have a harness made, but its not the cheapest thats for sure.
If the OP has experience with turbo's and feels comfortable installing a kit, well thats the way to go the only way I would give up .5L of displacement would be for the vvti 1JZ and it would have to be in a lighter chassis I feel like our cars need as much displacement as they can get. In fact I would love to drive a 3.4L stroker GTE and see how it pulls =)
Also makes me wonder who has done a 3.4L na-t or if it has ever been done before.
for those who have never messed with turbo's before setting up an na-t properly can become a nightmare.
oil line this, union bolt that, slotting holes on a manifold (OMG tell me it aint so I dont have a drill and 5 minutes to do that), the intake pipe wont clear the distributor, why do I need to get rid of the distributor, why doesnt the 4runner cap work right, why should I go to coilpacks, how do I install a map sensor and IAT when I go aem, how do I get my aem to start... you really have to learn alot of stuff when going na-t.
to put in a Soarer 1jz you have to be familiar with yanking an engine, hooking up the usual lines, and extending the harness a few feet (anyone can do it patiently). then you get all the turbo benifits without having to learn anything about a turbo, which is why its the easiest.
The 2jzgte from a mk4 is not that much harder if you pay to have a harness made, but its not the cheapest thats for sure.
If the OP has experience with turbo's and feels comfortable installing a kit, well thats the way to go the only way I would give up .5L of displacement would be for the vvti 1JZ and it would have to be in a lighter chassis I feel like our cars need as much displacement as they can get. In fact I would love to drive a 3.4L stroker GTE and see how it pulls =)
Also makes me wonder who has done a 3.4L na-t or if it has ever been done before.
Good point, I just failed to see it from both sides
09-26-14, 08:41 PM
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Yea I heard it would be a headache to na-t the sc. Plus I'm ok with 1jzgte auto swap seems easy and I think 300 whp would be more than enough for me at this moment. So has anyone ever bought a 1jzgte from eBay. I seen a couple on there for around 1500 and under .
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