Inner distributor leak?
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Inner distributor leak?
I have a leaky distributor and went to change the outer sea( The O Ring) l so while i was there i deiced to change the cap and rotor. Sure enough after a quick inspection the inside of my distributor was filthy with oil and looks as if there is an inner seal, is there? as well as the outer seal is weak my main question is if this inner distributor seal is replaceable or do i have to buy a whole new one? also i have a header problem where i am burning way too rich despite the fact i have 2 of 3 new O2's and no catalytics now. the latter is less important.
edit: jesus that spelling was terrible sorry
edit: jesus that spelling was terrible sorry
Last edited by BlackIRON; 09-23-14 at 06:33 PM.
#2
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
I have a leaky distributor and went to change the outer sea( The O Ring) l so while i was there i deiced to change the cap and rotor. Sure enough after a quick inspection the inside of my distributor was filthy with oil and looks as if there is an inner seal, is there? as well as the outer seal is weak my main question is if this inner distributor seal is replaceable or do i have to buy a whole new one? also i have a header problem where i am burning way too rich despite the fact i have 2 of 3 new O2's and no catalytics now. the latter is less important.
edit: jesus that spelling was terrible sorry
edit: jesus that spelling was terrible sorry
#5
I've been dealing with this issue for years. Can't tell you guys how many alternators this crap has ruined due to the poor placement of the alternator on the 2JZ. Just get something that catches the oil. Think I need to replace my alternator again now anyway cause the car keeps running off the battery and won't charge efficiently anymore.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
I've been dealing with this issue for years. Can't tell you guys how many alternators this crap has ruined due to the poor placement of the alternator on the 2JZ. Just get something that catches the oil. Think I need to replace my alternator again now anyway cause the car keeps running off the battery and won't charge efficiently anymore.
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#8
#9
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
Dude, you don't need to buy an OEM distributor. Mine is a Duralast, and even though thats a brand I hate it's still new with a lifetime warranty, only cost me ~$150 after the core charge, and it hasn't sprung a leak on me yet. Maybe you should consider just buying a new one? You don't have to drop $450-$500 for an OEM one from Lexus, but it's definitely not something I would buy used or feel comfortable taking from a pick n pull unless I was just really desperate.
You don't need a timing light unless you mess up. Sine you've already done it twice you probably don't need to be told how to do it, but it's best to make a mark of the distributor rotor position and take a few pictures of it to refer back to before removing the old distributor. When placing in the new distributor the helical teeth cause it to turn slightly as it goes in so it needs to be started slightly clockwise of where you want it to end up. If its not perfectly matched with the mark from the old distributor, then take it out and try it again. It took me 3 re-tries before I got it exact and my car ran fine, even better than before.
Leaking oil isn't the only problem with the distributor. On older models the crank position sensor is measured from the distributor, so if they crack that sensor can stop working and it'll enter limp mode, and randomly die/stall out on you, so it's important to replace these with a new unit if it breaks.
You don't need a timing light unless you mess up. Sine you've already done it twice you probably don't need to be told how to do it, but it's best to make a mark of the distributor rotor position and take a few pictures of it to refer back to before removing the old distributor. When placing in the new distributor the helical teeth cause it to turn slightly as it goes in so it needs to be started slightly clockwise of where you want it to end up. If its not perfectly matched with the mark from the old distributor, then take it out and try it again. It took me 3 re-tries before I got it exact and my car ran fine, even better than before.
Leaking oil isn't the only problem with the distributor. On older models the crank position sensor is measured from the distributor, so if they crack that sensor can stop working and it'll enter limp mode, and randomly die/stall out on you, so it's important to replace these with a new unit if it breaks.
#10
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
I have never had one break so I am not sure how you are breaking so many of them, maybe there is too much play in the bearing if they are old or have been sitting for a while, I have read online about them breaking here or there but its not the norm to have so many break. maybe something up with the exhaust cam but never heard of that.
toyota did give the alternator placement alot of thought. it used to be on the top of everything on the M series engines, you know the inline 6 motors they built for 25 years before building the JZ series, but they purposely moved it down on the JZ, well I think cause its ugly and no one wanted to look at it anymore.
do you still have the factory metal oil shield under the distributor? that helps a little bit but not much for a larger leak.
toyota did give the alternator placement alot of thought. it used to be on the top of everything on the M series engines, you know the inline 6 motors they built for 25 years before building the JZ series, but they purposely moved it down on the JZ, well I think cause its ugly and no one wanted to look at it anymore.
do you still have the factory metal oil shield under the distributor? that helps a little bit but not much for a larger leak.
#11
I have never had one break so I am not sure how you are breaking so many of them, maybe there is too much play in the bearing if they are old or have been sitting for a while, I have read online about them breaking here or there but its not the norm to have so many break. maybe something up with the exhaust cam but never heard of that.
toyota did give the alternator placement alot of thought. it used to be on the top of everything on the M series engines, you know the inline 6 motors they built for 25 years before building the JZ series, but they purposely moved it down on the JZ, well I think cause its ugly and no one wanted to look at it anymore.
do you still have the factory metal oil shield under the distributor? that helps a little bit but not much for a larger leak.
toyota did give the alternator placement alot of thought. it used to be on the top of everything on the M series engines, you know the inline 6 motors they built for 25 years before building the JZ series, but they purposely moved it down on the JZ, well I think cause its ugly and no one wanted to look at it anymore.
do you still have the factory metal oil shield under the distributor? that helps a little bit but not much for a larger leak.
#13
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Hey all I am in the process of replacing the distributor in my 1993 2jz ge and I removed the whole unit without marking the point at which the rotor is at (I put a new rotor, cap and o rings in the existing dizzy). I noticed 2 points, one on the skew gear and one on the end of the dizzy housing and when these align the rotor points to cyl 1. Motor is at TDC on compression on cylinder 1.
#14
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
You can always go the CPS route? Find a CPS from a 7M-GTE, an igniter & coils from an IS300, and follow Ali's instructions on CL on how to get it all wired up.
If it still leaks after that, then....you might have bigger problems, like the bore hole for the distributor has been gouged badly or out of round some how.
Good luck.
If it still leaks after that, then....you might have bigger problems, like the bore hole for the distributor has been gouged badly or out of round some how.
Good luck.
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