ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully this will help future swappers.

I plan to edit this to help make it a good list of what to get prior to swapping and possible where. Also i'll try to give price estimates, but with things like clips its hard since they fluctuate w/ supply +demand

Right now i can say you can get this done for as CHEAP as $1500, but if you expect to pay ~$2000 for a clip alone. total cost depends on how much you want to buy. If you want a total price feel free to click on the links provided, and google anything you are unsure about.

So you think you're ready to swap? before you tear your 2jz you might want to source the parts so you're down time is to a minimal(like me) This thread hopefully can help you.

Here's a list from Chino's post of parts. He doesn't respond to me on AIM, so i'm just hoping this is okay to post his list.

1JZ-GTE Soarer engine
1JZ-GTE Soarer ECU
Usable Transmission
Intercooler
Supra Upper/lower radiator hoses
Supra TT throttle cable
Soarer/Supra Igniter
A spool of 18g wire
USB Cable
Heatshrink/Solder
New motor mounts (recommended)
MSD Tach adapter (for the tach)
330ohm resistor (for the temp gauge)
HKS Fuel cut defencer (or similar)
Greddy speed limiter cut controller (or similar)
Supra TT/Walbro fuel pump
New plugs (NGK3330's recommended)
New Timing belt
Necessary fluids

Now...let's go down it.

1JZ-GTE Soarer engine
-Hopefully when you buy this you shop around, you want a engine-set or a clip, whichever is better for your. Most engine sets will come with everything you need. Expect to pay anything from 1200-5000shipped(the 5000 is a extreme case w/ vvt-i and being overcharged(IMO))
--Used JDM engine importers(I am not vouching for any of these guys, although they are the mainly used importers)
www.venus-auto.com
www.jarcoinc.com
www.jhotexports.com
www.rimsandthings.com
www.superiortradinginternational.com - this is where i got mine, but they jipped me on things, and wont return my calls, never buying from again.

1JZ-GTE Soarer ECU
-Should come with your engine-set or wiring harness, if not...have fun.
-if you are 5-spd you can use a auto ecu
-if auto you are most likely in luck(very few 5spd ecus)
your best bet is eBay
www.ebay.com

Usable Transmission
manual
-several manual options W58, R154, V160 (sc3 5spd, soarer tt 5-spd(and mkiii supra tt 5spd), and mkiv supra 6-spd respectably)
-the w58 is the cheapest option in which case you need a good clutch-set
--in this case you use a sc3 flywheel + clutch
-the r154 is a better option to get it done right on a budget, but nothing 100% on this(that i could find)
--in this case you use a mkiii supra clutch
--if using r154, needs custom driveshaft, and if you are 5spd is seems like only other thing needed is slave cylinder. For clutches you buy mkiii supra kits.
--for a driveshaft you CAN use a hybrid, a Supra mkiii tranny-side and a auto OR manual sc300's differential-side. You need to use the sc300 bearing for this.
-the v160 is the most expensive
--if using need custom driveshaft.
Automatic
-for tt auto e340 use an sc400 driveshaft.
-for sc3 auto, beware of it's capabilities

still need v160 info

Clutch
-transmission area covered which clutch you need
ACT, RPS, XTD, and SPEC all make clutches capable of handling the 1jz
http://www.advancedclutch.com/ -ACT
http://www.specclutch.com/ - Spec
http://www.turboclutch.com/ - RPS

Intercooler
-This choice varies since there's options here, if you chose to get a clip, i'm guessing you are going to use the stock SMIC. There's supposed to be a clip on your clip that you need(on top of taking out intake box) to get your set-up to work.
-FMIC: There's two ways, custom and non. you really have a choice of piping, depending on your area and how much the car would be driven should help you decide your piping type, i do not suggest aluminized steel if your car will see harsh winters.
--for non-custom there are kits that come w/ PS line relocation kits and seriously EVERYTHING you need to install the kit. After you consider the cost of Aluminum pipes and hassle savings the price doesn't look AS bad.
-if you go custom you will need piping, couplers, and clamps. I suggest T-Clamps, they're the most effective. I also suggest the use of Hump Pipes(type of coupler). They are designed to prevent torque on the endtanks.
What size piping do we run? For someone who wants to go custom???
www.suprastore.com(Ranging from ~$1000 to ~$2000)
http://www.boostlogic.com/

Supra Upper/lower radiator hoses (if needed)
-pretty much says it all. did a quick google search and got this place
http://www.**************/fr/parts/ra...Hose&ovtac=CMP
-i also recommend www.rockauto.com

Supra TT throttle cable
-this is because the stock cable is too short and 1jz cable is too long.
-you still need to adjust bracket to get this to work
-Part Number: 78180-1b090
www.toyotaworld.com
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/index.php - Ask for Steve Ganz

Supra/Soarer Ignitor
-should make sure this comes w/ your engine-set/clip.
-if not expect to pay a dealey 300+ or a member/e-bays ~100-150
www.ebay.com
www.toyotaworld.com
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/index.php - See above

A spool of 18g wire
Heatshrink/Solder
-These go together, just your soldering tools
-solderer is like $10 at radioshack, solder is like $2

USB Cable
-This is what i'm assuming he put in the list to reqire your knock sensor.
-You can solderin this wire if you do it right, obviously you need shielded cable though.
-can pick up ~10ft of cable for ~$5

New Motor Mounts
-97-98 Mounts are what you want(Part #: 12360-46111 ~$50 each)
--if you got a clip you can use those mounts
-TRD mounts require purchase of both mounts and brackets (~$500?)
www.toyotaworld.com
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/index.php - see above

MSD Tach Adapter
-Allows use of your Tach, since tranny uses different signal.
-bypassing resistor R109 or R73 depending on your cluster can fix this
-No confirmation on what makes these different.
R73 resistor should be top middle
R109 is towards the upper right
-This place sells it, but i can't get a place that CONFIRMS its an eis 100% online, so i'd order via-phone and make sure you get the right one you need a 8910EIS
http://store.racerwheel.org/racerwheel/m46-8910eis.html

330Ohm Resistor
-Very cheap, and can pick it up at local Radioshack.
--Gets wired in behind the cluster
--Yellow w/ green stripe wire

HKS FCD(Fuel Cut Defender)
-Raises max boost level

Greddy speed limiter cut controller
-speed limiter is at 115mph. if you want to go real fast, this is for you.

Supra/Soarer/Walbro fuel pump
-Very few importers give you the fuel pump(Jarco is one of them that always does)
-a mkiv supra fuel pump will work
-a walro 255lph pump will work as well (~$100)
www.lightningmotorsports.com
www.boostlogic.com

Plugs
Copper 6097s work
www.rockauto.com

Timing Belt
-Greddy for $150 www.suprastore.com
-Isuzu 2.6L 4-cyl (guessing there's only 1 2.6L 4-cylinder isuzu motor)

Necessary Fluids
-Oil (10w30?)
-Coolant
-PB Balaster(recommended)

Exhaust
-a mkiv downpipe will work but needs modding
-boost logic make 4"
-mkiv exhausts work, but need new hangers + <9" more piping to connect to stock DP
http://www.boostlogic.com/

Wiring
-Most plugs are the same(>90%)
-extending of the plugs that go to the kick-panel is necessary, and ecu is optional depending on placement
-beware of shielded cables

Cooling Help
-Koyo Radiator
-Electric Fans (for sc300 see summit)
-TRD Thermostat
http://www.summitracing.com/


MISC
Power Steering
-Use stock lines, and the stock motors banjo fitting to the new pump
Power Steering Resevoir
-Universal or Supra TT or Soarer TT(Universal is cheaper)
A/C Compressor
-Bolts right up to the 1jz

More Help:
Bean's Post on how to install the Walbro: http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18
Website to help you learn more about ANYTHING electricity has to do with: http://www.the12volt.com/
How to convert mkiii tranny to work in sc: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...=183050&page=1
LOTS of useful stuff here: http://www.trackdaymedia.com/~manny/Tech%20&%20Diag/
click parent directory to see even more
ALL wiring of the sc...whew: http://www.************/92Supra6.html
A/C Compressor, Power Steering lines, Altenator, PS Pump, PS Reservoir, O2 Sensor: [url]https://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189196&page=1&pp=15&highlight=1jz+power+steering+compressor+alternator+o2

*note* if you want to save on little things like PS reservoir buy a clip *note*


keywords: 1jz 1jz-gte 1jzgte swap engine set clip guide help input missing transmission ecu auto manual 5-spd convert conversion tach temp gauge gauges problem

vipsoarer

to start answering questions:

for the driveshafts, if you use a w58 (stock 5 speed) use the stock driveshaft. for a r154 from a soarer use a soarer driveshaft with the soarer rear end, if you dont get a ds get a custom one. r154 for mkIII that has been adapted needs a custom driveshaft, v160 needs a custom driveshaft. for tt auto e340 use an sc400 driveshaft.

clutches, all dependent on how much power you want and the comfort features available for that much power. spung street discs will be the most comfortable, puck cluches can be sprung or unsprung and will be more harsh the less contact pucks there are on the disk. i.e. 6 puck will be less jarring than a 3 puck. multi plate clutches are for serious power and comfort but are expensive. they last long and arent too much like an on-off switch. they can be rebuilt too.

msd tach adapter: its needed since your signal is completely different from the ecu. it is needed no matter which tranny you use.

fuel cut defender and speed cut controller are both optional but are usually the first things people do right after their swap since the motors are addictively fast.

Plug wires arent really applicable since both the 1jzgte and 2jzgte use coilpacks which have the coils on the spark plug wires themselves and you have to get them from toyota or suprastore or titan motorsports.

it sounds like you are on your way there. dont forget with the intercooler piping that if you dont buy a kit you will need to buy couplers and clamps. also most people want an open air filter to put on since no one uses stock air boxes when doing the swap.... well some do but its whatever your budget allows. exhaust is simple, either custom or from a manufacturer. 3" to 4" is recommended and larger doesnt always mean more power. you can use a supra tt downpipe for either the 1jz or 2jz swaps. i would always double check vacuum routes along with the condition of the vacuum hoses to save time while the motor is waiting to go in. you can run an n/a radiator but it would be a good idea to upgrade to either a stock or stock replacement for the supra tt or go aftermarket. remember these motors make a lot of heat since they are iron blocks with 2 turbos.

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

ThX Vip.
Hopefully when my sc is running again i can make a OH meet, if not there's some good sized pittsburgh meets and real good sized Philly meets(loooong drive for ya though)

Come on guys, in finding out all this info i ran across at least 4 posts saying how you wish the same questions weren't asked anymore.
I gathered the info from most of those threads, but i'm starting to slow down more.
there's topics such as R154 swap, V160 swap and such that i'm not looking into because it's out of my range, and the posts i have seen seem to be theoretical. If someone HAS DONE either of these with a 1JZ, please post up info so i can update this. . .

indelible

electric fans?

SoarerJzz3

Part number for Supra engine mounts: 1236046111 for both sides. Got em for about $51 ea. compared to like $120 ea.

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, i added the electric fans for the sc300 that were mentioned on intellex
as well as the mounts.

Last5Spd

i think for the motor mounts you got the wrong info.. as far as i know i was told and read for a week straight that the mounts u want are the 97-98 Supra Mounts. the ones before are too short..

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

okay, can anyone back that up?
i thought when i read about em, the 97-98s were different, and much more expensive(supposed to be stronger?) but not worth the added price. I'll look for that again in a bit, but right now i gotta run. . .

got_trd

any JZ series mount works.. u just gotta have the right brackets to go with it.... hell, 7mgte mounts work if you got the right combo

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

ConSynX (7:51:47 PM): yao, you get my msg from a day or so ago?
LiLViEtSoLjA is away at 7:52:29 PM.
ConSynX (7:52:42 PM): o-k
Nvm i guess

this is how it's been for a while. . .you always this friendly on aim?

Anyways, I was trying to get the info on how to end up not having to use a MSD Tach Adapter from you.

got_trd

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...&postcount=114

i cant be away from the computer? i went to take a nap so i can go out tonight... is that such a big deal?? not my fault you have bad timing.. like i said, a simple pm is alot easier than stalking me on aim

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

lol, nah you can do what you like.
sorry i missed that other post, but like i had said it wasn't the first time.
i have caught ya i think twice right when you took down the away message, but got nothing still.
i can see where your coming from though, guys at celicatech, and 6gc that have write-ups/swaps get lots of IMs sometimes. . .
i guess you're the "go-to" guy, i'll do PMs from now on.

MSD Tach bypass?

SoarerJzz3

When you look these up on toyotapartssales.com they list them as 95-98 mounts. Anyway, these work without having to change brakets.

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

may have just gotten a Timing belt part number
here's the ebay link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...31859665QQrdZ1

and that part badge looks to be Toyota so 13568-49025

Last5Spd

i guess i should have been a tad bit clearer.. if you use 97-98 mounts u wont have to screw around with mounts.. if u get any other mounts u gotta spend the dough for the brackets... so might as well just get 97-98 mounts