TOSU76

Ok, cool. I was trying to look at it in the dark last night with a flash light. It's a mess under the hood in that car, so many lines it's hard to figure out where they all go. I will probably try this method this weekend at some point, along with the coil pack idea and all of the others. Are there only two coil packs on this car? It seemed as though there are two on each side of the motor.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

post a picture in the daytime of the lines you are talking about its hard to tell what you mean, but I think they got it right. any vacuum leaks is going to make it run bad and can also misfire.

there are 2 dstributors (the black covers at the top right and top left on the front of the motor where all the plug wires come out of), there is a rotor in each one, and there is a coil for each distributor. there are only 2 coilpacks.
these may help give an idea, the rotors aren't the easiest things to get to so maybe check the coils and other stuff first.
if you have vacuum lines taped or capped etc.. fix those first that could be the only problem.



this is what the rotor looks like when you remove the distributor caps


here you can see the distributor caps and the leads coming off of them, rotors are under those.

TOSU76

Hey Ali and everyone,
Thank you very much for the pictures, everything seemingly is much more clear now. I hope to get some time in on this car today. I would have throughout the week but my girlfriend wrecked the 5 series the other night and that has been a complete mess trying to figure out how that is going to workout. Now I have a little bit of time so I will try some of these methods today, plus I get another ecu in the mail to insure that it is not the problem. I will let you know how it goes.

SexCoupe

iTrader: (6)

thanks for the update bro let us know what happens

TOSU76

No problem man. This is where I got today, I checked the spark on both coils and disconnected them to see if there was a difference. None found so I moved on to the vacuum issue. I decided to fix the problem rather than delete it. I used a small fitting and job weld to create the connection for the vacuum p/s pump. After that I got some sea foam and some throttle body cleaner and then did the sea foam treatment. The car ran incredibly better once this was completed. I took it out on a drive and it ran great. Super smooth and very responsive. Now the only problem seems to be that the car idles high when it is started and when it is in park. As soon as it's in gear it seems to run fine which is strange. I played with the idle to adjust it and it still seems to stay around 2000 rpm while in park for some reason. At this point I'm going to try to read the codes unless anyone is familiar with this problem as of now. Thanks a lot for the help guys.

SexCoupe

iTrader: (6)

did you remove your throttle body?

TOSU76

I didn't remove it I just took off the intake and sprayed throttle body cleaner in there. It looks pretty good now. Should I have removed it?

SexCoupe

iTrader: (6)

no i was asking cause you may still have a vacuum leak and thought you removed the TB and didnt replace the gasket. check for vacuum leaks some more if you dont find any it is probably your iacv or TPS. i am also wondering if your coolant temperature sensor maybe screwed up and thinking the car is always cold. where in CA are you?

TOSU76

Alright I will have to check those things out. I was reading about the IACV earlier and I had planned on taking it off and trying to clean it. Also is there a way to test to see if the TPS is bad before I go and buy one? Also I live in LA now, I wish I was back in San Diego like you, I miss it there. Also, I have went over the car pretty well and haven't noticed any other vacuum leaks that I am aware of.

SexCoupe

iTrader: (6)

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...739/33074.html

before starting anything make sure you have reset your ECU if it doesnt fix anything then start with the iacv

TOSU76

Awesome directions there thank you very much for that. I had the battery disconnected the whole time I was working on the iacv today. I took it out and cleaned it and reinstalled it. Crazy enough the car idled low instead of high. It was almost low enough that it would die so I unplugged the MAF and the idle came up instantly and it seemed to run fine. Does this mean the MAF is bad? I unscrewed the three screws and pulled it out to look at it but didn't really try to clean it. I will say the connection for the electric on the MAF is kinda loose if that makes since. It's sorta separated from the MAF base so maybe that has something to do with it. I'm running out of ideas. If it's not the MAF I'm guessing it has to be the tps sensor. I don't know.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I just took a look at that thread, and boy do the TPS adjustment numbers differ from what my copy of the FSM shows.

Everything on the page is identical in terms of layout, pictures, and verbiage, but the page/section numbering is completely different (FI-73 vs EG-333) and of course the multimeter resistance ranges.

The terminals being checked are the same in each case, and both are for the 1UZ. I wonder if the TPS part numbers differ?

When I followed this adjustment procedure previously, I had a really hard time finding a sensor position that satisfied each criteria, with just tightening the screws down while holding it firmly in place being enough "movement" to jump it in and out of spec. I may give it another try with the Australian numbers to see if they make for better adjustment ranges.

SexCoupe

iTrader: (6)

whenever a ecu is reset it may idle low sometimes even die until driven around 40 miles or so just drive it for awhile if you still have a problem i would still lean towards vacuum leak. wait till you are done with the drive cycles if it idles weird still then try unplugging the maf again

TOSU76

Ah I see, good to know. I will certainly try this out. Hopefully it will make a difference

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

how low is it idling. it could be that it wasnt before and now its idling right. generally if it goes into closed loop and all the sensors are working it will want to idle around 650, which might sound too low but its not.

I agree with the reset and then drive it for a while. if it feels like its driving good again don't mess with the maf or you may have another issue to deal with. alot of times the IACV gets sticky in certain spots and it needs a complete teardown and relubing or just grab another one. spraying the shaft down with wd40 and working it left and right till its smooth again can help alot as well. if there is too much resistance it will stick in some position which sounds like whats happening now.