MAF sensor outside of resistance specs?
06-27-14, 06:34 AM
#1
MAF sensor outside of resistance specs?
The MAF sensor should have the following resistance across the THA and E2 terminals:
0.9-1.3k ohms @ 104°, 2-3k ohms @ 68°, 4-7k ohms @ 32°
I measured mine last night on the car as 1.62k @ 64°, but I could barely see what I was doing in the dark so I took it inside and got a reading of 2.01k @ 76°. The latter seems reasonable. However, I took it back outside this morning to re-measure it at cooler temp's while out of the car, and got a reading of only 2.32k @ 61°.
I'm not exactly sure how the ohm ranges work with respect to those big temperature gaps, but it looks like it should be over 3k when below 68°? Or is the 2-3k ohm range smoothed out between 104* and 32*?
My next step is to put it back on the car and reattach the connector, then try the voltage tests. I need to pick up some back probe adapters to aid in that. And I'll need to get a hold of a better multimeter for the more important frequency test...
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/111/M...009b1-MAF.html
Also, I've read in a number of threads that people's cars run better when testing with the MAF disconnected. On mine, if I do that (done it twice accidentally when putting the air box back in), it'll start but bog down like it's going to die under throttle. Is that indicative of a problem somewhere?
0.9-1.3k ohms @ 104°, 2-3k ohms @ 68°, 4-7k ohms @ 32°
I measured mine last night on the car as 1.62k @ 64°, but I could barely see what I was doing in the dark so I took it inside and got a reading of 2.01k @ 76°. The latter seems reasonable. However, I took it back outside this morning to re-measure it at cooler temp's while out of the car, and got a reading of only 2.32k @ 61°.
I'm not exactly sure how the ohm ranges work with respect to those big temperature gaps, but it looks like it should be over 3k when below 68°? Or is the 2-3k ohm range smoothed out between 104* and 32*?
My next step is to put it back on the car and reattach the connector, then try the voltage tests. I need to pick up some back probe adapters to aid in that. And I'll need to get a hold of a better multimeter for the more important frequency test...
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/111/M...009b1-MAF.html
Also, I've read in a number of threads that people's cars run better when testing with the MAF disconnected. On mine, if I do that (done it twice accidentally when putting the air box back in), it'll start but bog down like it's going to die under throttle. Is that indicative of a problem somewhere?
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