Originally Posted by YoshiFD3S
It's been a minute, but I'm working on the car again and had a few questions.
First, I'm back to running the TT coil-packs in a sequential setup.
Here are my current settings based on Ali_SC3's
My problem right now is that I'm still not getting the Stat Sync'd signal, although I am getting Cam Count #'s now! I don't think I was getting that before..
1.) I'm seeing these red "Ign 1 Charge Loc" and "Ign 1 Firing Loc" boxes. What do those mean?
2.) I have read in places that to get the "Stat Sync'd" signal that I should try turning off all the injectors and cranking the car. I tried that, but still no "Stat Sync'd."
3.) I've been told that with my GE NA-T setup that I don't have to have a crank signal hooked up, or something..Is that true? I saw a setting called "Crank sync skip" which I tried turning ON, but it didn't make a difference..
4.) Since I can't get the car to actually turn over...what kind of settings should I have for the timing? Should I even be worried about the timing wizard yet?
You need to stop listening to whoever you are talking to and take it to a professional.
let me ask you some questions might work out better for you in the long run.
Do you actually know your 7M cps works? many many do not work right away and need a rebuild or a rewire at the least. try wiggling the connector and if you start to pick up or loose signals then you need a re-wire.
have you thought about using the base of your old distributor to start the car, to see if everything works at the least. if not then why do you want to make life so hard for yourself. I tell literally everyone who touches a 7M cps to start their car on the distributor base first.
Dare you ask why?? because people end up looking at literally everything else when they just have a faulty cps. you should eliminate this issue and use the stock distrutor as a cam and crank sensor, you just remove the top cover and rotor, its like 5 screws, you can do eet
Dont forget to update the sensitivity settings to the one in the original base calibration (open basemap and look at it).
1) don;t worry about those signals. worry about stat synced. you have a cam or crank sensor problem and usually its 95% the crank sensor when that happens as each time the crank sensor outputs 24 signals for 24 teeth each of the cam sensors only send 1 signal. muych easier to spot 1 signal vs 24 in the same time frame isn't it, as in you can count 1 ball rolling past you but maybe you might not be able to count 24 in a row spaced very close together.
so where you see the cam count, that number times 24 should be in the crank count box. the fact that it says 0 is not good, its the most important sensor on the engine.
Have you changed out your 7M cps yet?
when the crank sensor gives 24 clean signals and proper cam signals and the counts are right, the stat synced comes on (yay!!). so ite very simple no stat sync = no crank or no cam or they are not in phase but usually for guys with a 7M cps its usually the 7m cps.
sometimes closing in the gaps on the inside of the cps on the crank sensor can help, but not if its a wiring problem..
still want to spend your time on the 7M cps?
2) you can try patting your head and rubbing your belley but stat synced isnt going to come on unless your cam and crank signals are synced no matter how many things you turn off.
3) whoever told you 3 should just stop working on cars right now. your motor cannot run without a crank signal, and the aem needs 1 cam signal. both the distibutor base and 7M cps put out 1 crank signal and 2 cam signals (1 for cylinder 1 TDC and 1 for cylinder 6 TDC). the aem v1 runs wasted spark so it does not matter which cam sensor you use but it has to be 1 cam 1 crank.
If you use an aem v2 or are on a sequential ecu, you have to use both cam sensors and they have to be connected in the right order.
4) the aem only uses one timing for startup and that is whatever you put in the box on the engine start page. familiarize yourself with the engine start page and advanced engine start page.
you should not be worried about the timing wizard yet just about getting stat syncd. until you get that there is no point in continuing to "tune" anything. the aem looks at only a couple things when starting not everything.
things to help get a clean start:
fully charged battery inbetween attempts or have it jumped off another car. after repeated attempts if you battery dips below 12v even if everything is great you may not get a start as the cps may not output enough of a crank signal for starting. you know this happens when putting a jump on the car starts it right away.
also everytime you get stat syncd but not firing off, the ecu shoots fuel into the cylinders so its an easy way to flood it out. wait inbetween failed attmepts or use the clear feature of pushing the pedal all the way down to cut off injection so you can burn off the fuel.
again the ecu will not fire the coils unless it gets stat sync'd either.
you see how important stat sync'd is yet? thats the variable to get working.
one concerning thing is the fact the chart says the load is -5psi, and the motor isn't running.
that is bad and if you were getting stat sync'd would be something that could keep it from starting. you need to setup the map sensor properly but that doesn't even matter until it gets stat sync'd. good luck and report back if you haven't changed your cps or wiggled the wires on it yet.