YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

I'm trying to finish up my 2JZ-GE NA-T swap that's in my '94 RX-7, and I'm having a hard time making sure I've got the AEM V2 configured correctly and that everything is wired.

Yes, I've done A LOT of searching online for this topic, but it seems most guys aren't using a AEM V2, but are using the V1. It also gets really confusing really fast when people are throwing out coil pack settings and then talking about wire colors., 12 versus 24 teeth, etc.

Here's my setup:

AEM EMS V2 for GTE
2JZ-GE motor
7M CPS
TT coil-packs
wired for wasted spark setup. (1-6, 2-5, 3-4)

I need help to making sure I've at least got the AEM configured properly. In addition, any help with any additional wiring requirements would be helpful.

Here's where I'm at right now:

When I remove the 7M CPS and spin it manually, I can hear it ticking and I believe I am getting the signal to the AEM, but I'm just not sure I have the AEM configured correctly.

In addition to not getting spark, I'm also not getting fuel. Am I to understand that the two are connected? Forgive my n00b-ness.

Here are some screen-shots of my current AEM setup that I've tried to put together based on the overload of information I've been trying to piece together from the forums.





Your help is VERY much appreciated.

Thank you.

- Mike

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

if i inderstand what you are posting , you are using the wrong type of coils , you need vvti coilpacks which are designed for wasted spark , the tt coils are sequential and also need the use of gte cam sensor welded to na head ..which also may suggest the wiring is wrong

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (2)

First, thank you for responding so quickly.

So you're suggesting that you have to run the VVTI coil-packs?

Can you not just splice wires to convert the TT coil-packs to a wasted spark setup? Because that's what was done.

And why is it necessary to run a GTE cam sensor and not just the 7M CPS?

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

i have never seen anyone use gte tt coils to run wasted spark as they were designed to run sequential hence why we use things like a dli to boost the ignition ..

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (2)

I definitely need to check which igniter I currently have, whether it's a GE, GTE, or what...

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you can run GTE coils in wasted spark, that is what the AEM v1 does.
Your coil phasing settings are wrong or you have wired it wrong.

I can tell you how to fix it if you answer a few questions.
1) how did you wire them up for wasted spark, did you join wires after the aem and before the ignitor? are you using 3 pins on the aem or 6, basically how did you tie these together.
2) what ignitor are you using.

If you answer those I can tell you the exact settings. I am positive you have it wrong right now which is why it isn't working.

normally with vvti coils to run waste spark on the AEM v2, you only have 3 wires coming out of the aem v2 for the ignitor, and those go to the waste spark ignitor (ds62 or dh61), and then to the 3 coils.
The settings for that are here
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-settings.html

you can see your phasing number are not correct there is no point in having the same phasing number for the waste spark cylinder looks like you are only firing off 3 coils right now. see the 4, 16, 20, 8, 12, 0 numbers.... and also check knock 2 not all 6 cylinders are going to work off just knock sensor 1...


changing the phasing number to whats shown in my thread should work for even gte coils and gte ignitor that is waste spark wired between the 3 outputs on the aem and the 6 inputs on the TT ignitor. IF you wired it differently, well I am not sure why you did it that way let me know either rewire or change settings.

what doesn't make sense to me though is why you would have a v2 which can run all 6 coils in sequential, and not run the extra 3 trigger and power wires to have a full sequential setup that will actually run well.

Even if you get the TT coils to work in wastespark, you will likely need a HKS DLI or some kind of ignition amplifier to get them to run right and boost well as they are horrible in wasted spark just like on the v1. it does not idle or boost well when setup like that so run the extra wires or shell out the money for an ignition amplifier you do not actually need.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (2)

Thank you so much for the thorough response. I'll take a look at my car and get back to you shortly with info and pics.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

thats why i posted what i posted , why go thru all that trouble to run cop only to still have to use a ignition booster when vvti cop are designed for wasted spark

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yup that is right really the only way tt coils should be installed are in sequential. if you have to use an aem v1, just rewire for the vvti ignitor and vvti coils and enjoy the better spark or if you have to run some sequential coils in wasted spark on the v1 use the lq9 coils as those have enough spark energy to fire in wasted spark and will still perform well unlike the stock gte coils.
Aem v2, I would just remove the tt coils and use lq9 coils in sequential and have enough spark energy for 2x 2JZ's.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (2)

Well, my igniter is a GTE one, I just found out. So that's a start.

I'm going to wire the TT coils back to sequential and go from there.

I'm getting Speed For Sale here in Georgia to re-send me a baseline tune file to load that should be configured for my setup.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone,

It's been a minute, but I'm working on the car again and had a few questions.

First, I'm back to running the TT coil-packs in a sequential setup.

Here are my current settings based on Ali_SC3's informative posts.





My problem right now is that I'm still not getting the Stat Sync'd signal, although I am getting Cam Count #'s now! I don't think I was getting that before..

Questions:

1.) I'm seeing these red "Ign 1 Charge Loc" and "Ign 1 Firing Loc" boxes. What do those mean?



2.) I have read in places that to get the "Stat Sync'd" signal that I should try turning off all the injectors and cranking the car. I tried that, but still no "Stat Sync'd."

3.) I've been told that with my GE NA-T setup that I don't have to have a crank signal hooked up, or something..Is that true? I saw a setting called "Crank sync skip" which I tried turning ON, but it didn't make a difference..

4.) Since I can't get the car to actually turn over...what kind of settings should I have for the timing? Should I even be worried about the timing wizard yet?

Help?

Thank you.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

You need to stop listening to whoever you are talking to and take it to a professional.

let me ask you some questions might work out better for you in the long run.
Do you actually know your 7M cps works? many many do not work right away and need a rebuild or a rewire at the least. try wiggling the connector and if you start to pick up or loose signals then you need a re-wire.

have you thought about using the base of your old distributor to start the car, to see if everything works at the least. if not then why do you want to make life so hard for yourself. I tell literally everyone who touches a 7M cps to start their car on the distributor base first.
Dare you ask why?? because people end up looking at literally everything else when they just have a faulty cps. you should eliminate this issue and use the stock distrutor as a cam and crank sensor, you just remove the top cover and rotor, its like 5 screws, you can do eet
Dont forget to update the sensitivity settings to the one in the original base calibration (open basemap and look at it).

1) don;t worry about those signals. worry about stat synced. you have a cam or crank sensor problem and usually its 95% the crank sensor when that happens as each time the crank sensor outputs 24 signals for 24 teeth each of the cam sensors only send 1 signal. muych easier to spot 1 signal vs 24 in the same time frame isn't it, as in you can count 1 ball rolling past you but maybe you might not be able to count 24 in a row spaced very close together.

so where you see the cam count, that number times 24 should be in the crank count box. the fact that it says 0 is not good, its the most important sensor on the engine.

Have you changed out your 7M cps yet?
when the crank sensor gives 24 clean signals and proper cam signals and the counts are right, the stat synced comes on (yay!!). so ite very simple no stat sync = no crank or no cam or they are not in phase but usually for guys with a 7M cps its usually the 7m cps.

sometimes closing in the gaps on the inside of the cps on the crank sensor can help, but not if its a wiring problem..
still want to spend your time on the 7M cps?

2) you can try patting your head and rubbing your belley but stat synced isnt going to come on unless your cam and crank signals are synced no matter how many things you turn off.

3) whoever told you 3 should just stop working on cars right now. your motor cannot run without a crank signal, and the aem needs 1 cam signal. both the distibutor base and 7M cps put out 1 crank signal and 2 cam signals (1 for cylinder 1 TDC and 1 for cylinder 6 TDC). the aem v1 runs wasted spark so it does not matter which cam sensor you use but it has to be 1 cam 1 crank.
If you use an aem v2 or are on a sequential ecu, you have to use both cam sensors and they have to be connected in the right order.

4) the aem only uses one timing for startup and that is whatever you put in the box on the engine start page. familiarize yourself with the engine start page and advanced engine start page.
you should not be worried about the timing wizard yet just about getting stat syncd. until you get that there is no point in continuing to "tune" anything. the aem looks at only a couple things when starting not everything.

things to help get a clean start:
fully charged battery inbetween attempts or have it jumped off another car. after repeated attempts if you battery dips below 12v even if everything is great you may not get a start as the cps may not output enough of a crank signal for starting. you know this happens when putting a jump on the car starts it right away.

also everytime you get stat syncd but not firing off, the ecu shoots fuel into the cylinders so its an easy way to flood it out. wait inbetween failed attmepts or use the clear feature of pushing the pedal all the way down to cut off injection so you can burn off the fuel.
again the ecu will not fire the coils unless it gets stat sync'd either.
you see how important stat sync'd is yet? thats the variable to get working.

one concerning thing is the fact the chart says the load is -5psi, and the motor isn't running.
that is bad and if you were getting stat sync'd would be something that could keep it from starting. you need to setup the map sensor properly but that doesn't even matter until it gets stat sync'd. good luck and report back if you haven't changed your cps or wiggled the wires on it yet.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (2)

"IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT'S ALIIIIVEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

LOL...

So first, my brother and I tackled the issue of not getting cam AND crank count signals to the AEM software. The primary culprits were a bad ground on the 7M-CPS wiring and the CPS itself needed to be adjusted internally to tighten the gaps, which was why I wasn't getting "crank count" signals before that.

From there, the "Stat Sync'd" signal in the AEM software wouldn't stay "ON". Turns out some of the igniter wires were wired incorrectly by Chase Bays which was causing a back-feed of signal or sorts. With the AEM software, once you have stable cam and crank signals, the "Stat Sync'd ON" is what then allows the injectors and coil-packs to fire.

From there, it was just a matter of getting the right tune loaded into the software.

Since my wiring harness, coil-packs, igniter, and ECU are all 2JZ-GTE...I ended up having to go with one of the 2JZ-GTE specific tunes that is provided by AEM when you install their AEM Tuner software.

For reference, out of the two Supra they provide, the one that worked called "6100 Supra MT 3.5 Bar MAP.02v02".

None of the wacky 2JZ-GE NA-T tunes or 7M-CPS specific settings I've been reading on the forums worked. It had to all be 2JZ-GTE specific.

Once the car started I could rev it gently but it wouldn't hold an idle, so I tweaked the Q45 throttle-body a bit and that was all she needed!! Next step is to set the timing.

Here is the description AEM provides with the particular Supra calibration file the ""6100 Supra MT 3.5 Bar MAP.02v02" calibration that I used.



Here are the settings for the calibration.





I didn't see any difference trying the "6000 RPM" changes that were recommended for the 7-M CPS:



So I just kept them at the stock GTE specs as see in the previous picture.

Anyways, at it stands I'm reaching out to Jared @ Speed For Sale here in GA to help provide me a 2JZ-GTE tune that's a little more specific to my setup that I can hopefully at least drive the car on.

The first place I'll be driving it to is to get a 4-wheel alignment down the street. lol...after that, I'll be bringing it back to Speed For Sale for a full-on dyno tune. That's the plan, at least... lol

For anyone interested in following the progress of my build, I have a "build thread" on Supra Forums.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...t-1337-fd-quot

Thanks for all your help, guys!