All 1jz Holset hx35 experienced please chime in
06-22-14, 06:34 PM
#1
All 1jz Holset hx35 experienced please chime in
So im gathering parts to go single turbo, im using the stock 12cm hotside, ebay ss braced manifold . Now the only issue that im coming across in my head is the downpipe. I have the 5 bolt backing plate with a welded on 3" vband. Now im wondering what kind of fitment will i get if i buy a generic 1jz/2jz single tubro v band downpipe? Im asuming il have to adjust the downpipe, maby cut n have it turned maby extended/shorten.
Has anyone tried this? Or should i just have a shop fab up a downpipe, or order the $100 ss downpipe that already has bunges welded on it and work off of it?
And on another note, a oil feed restrictor is not needed correct? Ive read and people say yes and no, seems like more people are against it.
Has anyone tried this? Or should i just have a shop fab up a downpipe, or order the $100 ss downpipe that already has bunges welded on it and work off of it?
And on another note, a oil feed restrictor is not needed correct? Ive read and people say yes and no, seems like more people are against it.
Last edited by Golden95SC; 06-22-14 at 07:55 PM.
06-23-14, 09:17 PM
#2
I've run a slightly different holset, but 99% sure that the oil feed situation is the same. I've been running -4, no restrictor, for an easy 50k plus now on the same turbo between two different 1js for a few years. As for the dp, I'd be willing to bet that the cheap $100 dp would be close if not work, and would definitely be cheaper than trying to buy the materials alone to fab one, so if it was me, I'd prob start there and mod if necessary. Check out Tjwireless' thread. He's a 1j on hx
06-26-14, 07:05 AM
#4
Food for thought, the 6bt cummins has similar working oil pressure to the 1jz. He34/351. Hy/hx35 all came on this same engine. So if you have the stock dodge feed fitting in there, you can see what size it is. It's about the same as -4 from my measurements, which is why I went -4 with no restrictor. I've run an aftermarket metric to -4 fitting, and I've also welded a -4 male onto the stock dodge fitting to make this work. No restrictor. Because similar working oil pressure. Logic would dictate that if oil pressure is in the same ball park, then the same size feed would be required, hence why I've got 50k plus trouble free miles on the same turbo that I bought unknown used off of craigslist. I didn't arrive at my conclusion for my setup based off of he say/she say stuff I read on the internet, but rather a logic path based on mechanical similarities.
Things I've had trouble with on my holset/jz setups:
Chinese manifolds cracking
Keeping tread on tires
Things I haven't had trouble with on my jz/holset:
Turbo
Making 400whp
Things I've had trouble with on my holset/jz setups:
Chinese manifolds cracking
Keeping tread on tires
Things I haven't had trouble with on my jz/holset:
Turbo
Making 400whp
06-27-14, 04:27 AM
#5
Thanks for the input vrank. I did some digging on the downpipe and i found some fitment pics of the ebay downpipe on the same manifold i have. This one sits parralel to the motor and not at a slight tilt. The downpipe is made for manifolds with the tilt so heres some info from doomlights thread
the next thing i started on was the CX racing downpipe. screamer pipe, intake combo they sell on ebay,driftmotion, amazon. where ever.
since my manifold has the turbo sit parallel with the engine. i wasn't gonna catch any brakes with a simple bolt on. this downpipe was made for manifolds that tilt the turbo away to the right. so i had to chop it up and have it welded. here are the pics.
here is how badly it fit.
my GT3582r was the bolt on flange type so i got some studs. i didnt wanna go V-band like everyone else. just didnt have the money or time to bother with it. so i got some studs and started to get it ready for mock up.
here is the first mock up of the down pipe. it was much shorter, took out the angle so it was straight, but it hit the firewall. (by the way u ask, why didnt i have it at a shop. simple... im broke lol i had to bring it to the welder every time and have him redo it. i used a sharpie to line it all up)
it looked good, anyway. i needed it to come down a lot more. so i ordered a 6 inch 3in diameter flex section from ebay. only 25 bux! w00t!
then i had it put in, it fit a lot better! and it had flexibility.
since my manifold has the turbo sit parallel with the engine. i wasn't gonna catch any brakes with a simple bolt on. this downpipe was made for manifolds that tilt the turbo away to the right. so i had to chop it up and have it welded. here are the pics.
here is how badly it fit.
my GT3582r was the bolt on flange type so i got some studs. i didnt wanna go V-band like everyone else. just didnt have the money or time to bother with it. so i got some studs and started to get it ready for mock up.
here is the first mock up of the down pipe. it was much shorter, took out the angle so it was straight, but it hit the firewall. (by the way u ask, why didnt i have it at a shop. simple... im broke lol i had to bring it to the welder every time and have him redo it. i used a sharpie to line it all up)
it looked good, anyway. i needed it to come down a lot more. so i ordered a 6 inch 3in diameter flex section from ebay. only 25 bux! w00t!
then i had it put in, it fit a lot better! and it had flexibility.
Last edited by Golden95SC; 06-27-14 at 04:32 AM.
06-27-14, 07:17 AM
#6
You have the ss auto trash manifold. I've had two, both collectors cracked to ****. Currently have #3 on gfs sc, I braced the **** out of it, welded on the collector a bit more and it seems to be fine so far about 15k in. Make sure you brace and deck it. I like the turbo placement of it, wish the material and weld quality was better though. Bracing should help though
06-27-14, 08:54 AM
#7
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u should definetly brace your manifold. When i pulled my motor last winter and inspected my manifold, the brace was cracking at the weld joint. and i had only driven on that set up for like 4 months. holsets are pretty heavy turbos. as for the dp situation, i used the dp from driftmotion and had my welder modify it to work with the dm manifold. u might wanna look into getting a dp with a flex on it though. and u dont need a restrictor. ive been runing a -4 oil feed no restrictor this whole time, no problems at all.
Last edited by wirelesstj; 06-27-14 at 09:07 AM.
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07-24-14, 01:19 PM
#9
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i have the driftmotion dp it didnt fit so cut it up and made my own down pipe and got the holset vband sent to a machine shop to match a generic v band so i could put a clamp on it
07-25-14, 11:14 AM
#10
Last time I checked cxracing didn't make a t3 manifold for the 1j. Their quality is about like the other manifolds on eBay, most likely the same manufacturer, but I do believe they make a more expensive thick one that is probably nice. Their equal length thick ge header is pretty ****ing nice
07-25-14, 03:33 PM
#11
I got almost everything i need to put this kit together, only thing thats left is getting the manifold braced, hotside flapper welded shut , then geting the downpipe fitted, i also need to order more pipe to the new intercooler piping for the turbo side. Vrank do you know wat typeof bolts the holset uses for the oil drain? I cant find a straight answer, but im thinking 8mm? Or is itlike a m10
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