Nokton40mm

Hello all. Just recently picked up a 92 SC300 for free. It won't start. But I did put in a new battery and all the electronics do work as well as windows, seats, and mirrors. When trying to start it does click but won't even turn over. I tried jumping the TE1 and E1, did not get the engine light to come on at all. Used the OBD hook up at the kick plate. But the engine and oil lights do stay on even after 2-3 minutes. The gas gauge doesn't register either (might be bad). But for free a little investment might be worth it. The next steps are the alternator, starter then fuel filter. Read somewhere else about using cleaner near the MAF sensor and not to do that. Also inspected the IMC on the driver fender and it looked pretty clean with no corrosion, Same thing with all the fuses in the engine bay.

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

I’m not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to engine issues, but maybe it’s the fuel pump? I didn’t have any CEL lights or any codes pop up. My original fuel pump was always very loud and i figured it died due to how quiet it got.

Nokton40mm

Kira X,

Thanks for the reply. I'll give that a try and see where it leads. I need to drain the fuel tank and lines anyway. It has been sitting since 2017.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

If I get you right , when you say "It does click but doesn't turn over " , you meant you hear the solenoid click when you try to start it but the actual starter doesn't turn over ?

if that is the case starter problem .

japsc85

Car is been sitting since 17 definitely a starter issue you could probably take the starter apart and clean the contacts and it probably be good moisture probably has gotten up in there and now the Brushes are not making good Contact

ObSCessed

One click of the solenoid instead of mutliple rapid clicks does usually point to a starter problem but try this first, try and push the shift lever toward the dashboard, I had my car not start once and my mech told me to do that because sometimes theres play in the shift lever where the sensor telling the car its in park is not engaged so pushing it forward a bit(gently) could help. Also maybe try and start the car in neutral?

Nokton40mm

gerrb,

Correct @japsc85 mentioned int he next reply, I'm gonna take it apart or just replace it when the damn weather here decides to cool off. Working in 100+ weather ain't no fun. I'd really love for this to be the issue and then just fix as I go along.

Nokton40mm

ObSCessed,

WIll give a quick try. Why not!

Nokton40mm

Tried that. Didn't work. So it looks like the starter is the next thing to look at!

Tallyhoe

try jumping through the relay, rule out the relay, but odds are its the starter. My truck did some stuff like that, power would cut out and would comeback after a few seconds..... My car does something similar, but I have to pull the starter relay and jump it to make it work and it turn on. If that fails like the one in my truck its definitely the starter.

Nokton40mm

Update to 92 sc300. Replaced battery, starter, starter relay, and EFI/Main relay along with oil change. Still no crank just the click. No CEL. But I still have the oil and battery light along with the tail lights (I think) light stay on even when trying to turn it over. I do not hear the fuel pump at all. Becoming quite baffled. I traced the battery leads and they look to be in good condition and grounded for the negative side to the chassis. I did find that the diagnostic port in the engine bay is very corroded thou. Someone outside of here mentioned seeing if the ECU is getting power. Since I have lights and all the electronics work. I have ruled out the alternator. Any other suggestions anyone might know of?

Tallyhoe

Any chance it may be the neutral safety switch gone bad?? If its bad it may think that it is in gear instead of P or N?? Additionally have you tried jumping it with a paper clip?? Another thing to look at would be the crank position sensor? My truck would do the same, but triggered a crank position sensor, but it was the starter for me....
Should be able to use an adapter for obd1 with a obd2

scsexy

iTrader: (1)

When you first key the car up you should see a check engine light for a few seconds before it goes away. Otherwise u have ECU, Crankposition sensor issues.
The fuel pump should turn on when you key it up and you should be able to hear it. Google - 12 volt fuel pump mod sc300 - and youll find how to just give the fuel pump straight power bypassing the fuelpump ecu.

Could be a bad negative from your battery/ or positive to the starter is corroded.

Nokton40mm

I will check the leads again next weekend and pull the battery to clean the chassis ground for the negative terminal. Taking the day off to relax. I have no CEL at all and I do not hear the fuel pump. But that is next to be replaced as it is. I'll do the fuel pump mod when I change out the fuel pump since the seats will be out and I'll check the crank position sensor to see if it's bad. Just tired of throwing parts at the car. Thanks for the info @scsexy

Nokton40mm

@Tallyhoe It could be possible. I have tried the neutral start and a gentle press forward on the shifter to see if it will start. Neither worked. I have tried with a copper wire to bypass the diagnostic inside. Might be too thick ...oddly I haven't found any paperclips in my house..even with school-age kids. none in the house. But to be clear, what pins need to be jumpered to bypass and start it? I have seen several different explanations online that give many different ports to jump.