SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys,

1992 S300
Stock manual w58
1jz swap
Stock everything on the 1jz.

Was driving to work this morning and about 4 miles from the house I heard a noise under the hood, then saw steam...Drive up to a spot where I can pull over and the car is surging like it has power one second then the next nothing...noticeably jerking my car power, no power power no power. I pulled over and my car was in a cloud of antifreeze steam...Popped the hood and see that my heater hose going to my heater vsv has blown off...I grabbed a screwdriver and reattached the hose. Started the car and it idles fine...put it into gear and go to accelerate and I get the surging again...Nursed it to the park and ride just off the freeway and hitched a ride to work.

After work I went to pick it up and filled it back with water and started her up...Drove it in the parking lot and no immediat issues. Pull out onto the street and a few blocks down the car boggs down and I lose all enging power...let off the car and the car catches itself and idles...push back on the gas at all and it bogs down..Was able to make it a few more blocks nursing the hell out of it and trying to put as little strain on the engine as possible but eventually it was hiccuping and jerking power no power along with the bogging so I had to park her again.

Having her towed home in a bit just waiting for a buddy to come over to go do it but I dont even know where to start...

O2 sensor?

Fuel pump?

TPS?

IACV?

Short in the ecu from being sprayed with antifreeze...it didnt soak the wires or anything but some antifreze did spray on the wires and box...course its dry now...


Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks guys!

Added a video to show the surging/jerking while driving issue...only parked ad in driveway so I cannot show the bogging issue but you can hear the engine surging.

Hope it helps you guys...

Luv2xl

iTrader: (5)

check your MAP sensor...

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Alright...will do...Any reasoning behind your suggestion? I will have to do a search on how to test it as I do not have a spare one. Thanks for the tip though! Nice to see my thread is getting some love!

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

Is it throwing any ecu codes?

mecheng10

did you properly bleed the cooling system?

check your coils as well

Luv2xl

iTrader: (5)

From experience, I experienced the bucking upon acceleration, but it idled fine. It turned out the vaccum lines to the MAP became kinked and was allowing a proper vaccum.

I dont recall the testing procedures unfortunately but I am sure a google search may provide great results.

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

I do not have the check engine light hooked up...Guess that is my first project in diagnosing this issue.

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Yes cooling system was refilled properly and no air bubbles exist ad it is full.

I will add checking the coils to the list...

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Will be checking the map sensor today. Me and my buddy checked the vacuum lines the other night and didnt see any kinks or damaged hoses. Will re check though again.


Thanks for al the suggestions guys!

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Pulled codes and I get 4 codes in total.

14, 31, 41, 47

14-Ignitor signal circuit fault
31-low air flow meter voltage
41,47- Throttle position sensor fault


It noteson ll of these issues that the ecu could be the culprit...WOndering if I should replace these parts or I dunno...Suggestions???

Luv2xl

iTrader: (5)

Do you have/know anyone in your area with a 1J? if so, ask if you can test their ECU on your car, if it fixes the problem, you know what you have to do. If the problem persists, then tackle the codes.

all these faults could be due to the coolant getting onto these parts..

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

I solved all but three codes by removing the plugs on my ecu and drying them out.Seems that coolant leaked onto the ecu (cause it is still located under the hood near the firewall) and got the plugs wet...I used a q tip and a blow dryer to remove the moisture, re plugged in the ecu and started and checked for codes...only got one code 47 Throttle Position Sensor...I have had an idle issue at start up for some time now and never new what was causing it...now that I have hooked up the check engine light I think that the TPS is the culprit for the surging when starting up cold...The other three codes were indeed caused b the coolant on the ecu plugs. I also open up the ecu and made sure no moisture made it inside and none did. I am gonna order a TPS tomorrow either from my local dealer or Driftmotion if need be.

I will post an update once I get the TPS and get it installed.

Thanks again for all your help you guys.

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

UPDATE:

I ordered a TPS Sensor from driftmotion on Sat. Delivery Confirmation says I will have it tomorow so that should fix my check engine light code hopefully and solve my startup idle problem.

However a new or related issue has now popped up. I have no heat! I was driving to work this morning and realized I was on full hot but my air was cold...

I checked my Heater switch vacuum valve thing (vsv?) and can hear the pop inside when I remove and them reapply vacuum to it...so it is functioning to allow water into the heater core. On idle I can squeeze the heater hose going into the vsv on the top and it is barely warm and i can feel no water running throuh it...but when I hit the throttle the heater hose inflates with the acceleration...almost feels like a baloon...it doesnt expand or anything but you can definitely feel the pressure...doesnt sound or feel like water but more like air, This is why I think it is related to what caused this thread originally which was my heater hose (the one that fills up with pressure) popped off the other day and is what soaked my ecu wires and caused most of my problems for which I started this thread ....So, Is that possible? For a heater hose to be filled with air pressure when the gas is pressed? And if so, what would or could cause that? Or is it just water and feel like air?

I flushed the radiator...removed the thermostat and backflushed it through the top hose and it came out the bottom hose and ran clear... Replace everything and filled her back up with no thermostat and still no heat...Although I noticed a lot ore flow without the thermostat in place...water gushes into the radiator from the top hose, so y water pump is in working order...I barely noticed the flow through the radiator with the thermostat in... kinda weird too but the least of my worries.

Also to be totally clear and fully explain everything I have noticed and am experiencing... When I have the radiator cap off and push on the throttle a white foam or froth appears in my water in the radiator...seems to go away after a bit and return to clear but whenever you raise the throttle the white froth appears again.

Car has never overheated and still doesn't. Runs right around 175-185.

I am seriously stumped guys... Getting so very tired of what seems like one problem after another with my sc lately...Please help a brother out!

I know someone has the answer for me.

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

Are you losing any coolant? Check the oil just in case of a head gasket leak. When you put vacuum on the heater valve can you see the shaft move?

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Checked the oil dipstick and looks normal...Radiator doesnt smell like gas or exhaust.( I stuck my nose in it). Havent lost any coolant at all this week that I noticed. I drive 15 miles to work and hoe in traffic and never goes above normal temps...I took it out tonight and romped on it pretty good in town and on the freeway and temp didnt budge on the stock gauge or aftermarket.

When I applied vacuum directly to the valve I cannot see anything move but I hear a plunger type sound then a click when vacuum is removed.