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best bang for the buck... NA-T or GTE?

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Old 05-12-14, 05:33 PM   #1
RyanE
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Default best bang for the buck... NA-T or GTE?

Ok, so scouring ebay looking at parts and kits etc it came clear that for roughly the same price or usually somewhat cheaper you can get a used GTE engine and ECU or motor/ecu/tranny... Seems like since it's basically a drop in fit would the effort put into upgrading the 2JZ-GE to turbo be worth it? I'm not saying one way is better or worse, and I'm just asking the experienced folks out there what their opinions are.
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Old 05-12-14, 06:35 PM   #2
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What kind of budget do you have? What are you wanting out of this: big power, a small boost, quick spool, a monster?
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Old 05-12-14, 07:24 PM   #3
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There are too many variables to answer. The 2JZGE can handle a lot of power and it's very similar to the GTE motor. Do I think you should buy a garbage ebay bolt on turbo kit for the GE? Absolutely not lol. But, a GE NA-T setup can produce great numbers and a lot of fun. On the other hand, a really good quality NA-T set up can cost upwards of $3,000+ (which is what I've spent) and it can be pretty easy to plop in a GTE with the stock twins for a decent price from an engine importer.

The best part about a GE is that if it's been well maintained, then you won't have anything to worry about. Your imported GTE engine has zero history or maintenance records so you better cross your fingers that it's running good and not sludged up.

Best of luck with either decision.
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Old 05-12-14, 07:30 PM   #4
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in japan they dont change there oil much, only filter, these 2jz are tanks, they can be full of sludge and will run like its new, the best thing is to go look at a GTE and inspect it, you can always order one on ebay and im sure its fine but you wont be 100% sure

just plan to open it all up and clean the sludge out because im almost sure they will all have some
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Old 05-13-14, 12:24 AM   #5
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Absolute cheapest bang for the buck is probably still a 1JZ-GTE Auto swap from an importer. Which is the best depends on what you ultimately have in mind as a goal. That said, even if a truly good and reliable NA-T setup can run $3.5k-$4k+ it might be preferable in the long run... again, depending on what the OP wants to accomplish.
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Old 05-13-14, 08:58 AM   #6
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If you do go gte buy something that doesn't have sludge..

There is no cheaper way to get there at the end you will spend about the same amount of money..Been there done that , just do what you like because they are both money pits..
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Old 05-13-14, 09:10 AM   #7
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Plan at least 5K for either to make it right....Most of the parts to go NA-T are GTE parts anyways.....Easier to go GTE in my opinion and you are dealing with a motor that is already turbocharged to begin with....i.e bigger injectors, headgasket, etc...
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Old 05-13-14, 09:19 AM   #8
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If you are lucky enough to get a gte that won't require a whole top end reseal, then that would be best but generally you would take both of them down to the headgasket and inspect the motor. At that point you would just be putting back new parts on the ge vs the stock parts on the gte, it really is similar if you are going single turbo. its really whatever you want to do both are pretty involved.

If you want a higher compression E85 build though na-t has an advantage.
If you like the twins which are great for stock boost or bpu, gte has an advantage.
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Old 05-13-14, 10:15 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
If you are lucky enough to get a gte that won't require a whole top end reseal, then that would be best but generally you would take both of them down to the headgasket and inspect the motor. At that point you would just be putting back new parts on the ge vs the stock parts on the gte, it really is similar if you are going single turbo. its really whatever you want to do both are pretty involved.

If you want a higher compression E85 build though na-t has an advantage.
If you like the twins which are great for stock boost or bpu, gte has an advantage.
Either option you choose it will best to do a rebuild on some parts to make it more reliable....
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|2JZGTE|Aristo ECU|440's|TT Fuel Pump|BorgWarner S366 0.91A/R@14psi|Full 3" SS exhaust|LS400 BBK|Tial MV-R|Tial Q|W58|CompetitionClutch Stage 4|ARP Headstuds|3" IC & Piping|GSP Mono-RS Coilovers|XXR 521 18x8.5/10|SC400 OEM Lip|6000k HID|

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Old 05-13-14, 02:30 PM   #10
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your best option would be just to boost the 2jzge.
knowing other peoples builds, they do the gte swap because they only want 350 whp.
then next year they want 500 then 700
and then you buy all the parts you would just to turbo a 2jzge (manifold, injectors, turbo, fuel)

2jzge all the way all day!
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Old 05-14-14, 02:52 PM   #11
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What does NA-T stand for? Naturally Aspirated? But then, what does the T stand for?
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Old 05-14-14, 03:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by TommyBlaze View Post
What does NA-T stand for? Naturally Aspirated? But then, what does the T stand for?
NA-T (Naturally Aspirated - Turbo) ie. meaning the NA motor has been turbochareged
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|2JZGTE|Aristo ECU|440's|TT Fuel Pump|BorgWarner S366 0.91A/R@14psi|Full 3" SS exhaust|LS400 BBK|Tial MV-R|Tial Q|W58|CompetitionClutch Stage 4|ARP Headstuds|3" IC & Piping|GSP Mono-RS Coilovers|XXR 521 18x8.5/10|SC400 OEM Lip|6000k HID|

1999 Toyota Tacoma X-Cab

|5VZFE|5spd|4wd|Shrockworks Front Bumper|Bilstein Adjustable 5100's|Wheelers Custom AAL|Bilstein 5125's|Deckplate mod|Magnaflow exhaust|33X10.5X15 BFG A/T|OEM 15X7's
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Old 05-29-14, 04:57 PM   #13
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Well it all really comes down to a personal choice and or power goals. Either setup is great for the street/ strip etc. If you decide to boost the GE you would have to make sure you have a decent condition engine, many people boost GE's with 160k or more on the clock, and are running solid. Make sure compression from all cyclinders are good(double check). Obviously you get the opportunity to piece together a turbo kit, with parts you decide to go with, unlike off the shelf turbo kits that are good but may have parts included that are not of choice for the enthusiast or builder. Turbo, fuel, standalone, hotside parts, IC and piping can run from 2000-3500k. That's not counting if you are deciding a manual swap if not already had. On the other hand, 1jzgte is a practical swap for the money and future potential, as well as the 2jzgte can be had for about 2500k. The best part about it is that if the swap is installed as an auto and kept BPU and stock ecu, you can be driving on boost for the low, and can give you an opportunity to grow whenever your pockets let you, but the potential will be in the car already. In my honest opinion, if your trying to build a high horsepower car, i would build the GE. If you want in the future maybe only 500-600hp, the 2jzgte can do it in a blink of an eye without much hassle and money. At the end of the day both na-t and 1jz/2jzgte swaps flat out rock. Choice is up to you
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Old 05-29-14, 09:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikef View Post
in japan they dont change there oil much, only filter
What?
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Old 05-31-14, 09:54 AM   #15
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Maybe they use a "SPECIAL JDM OIL" that doesn't need to be changed lol
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