AnonymousG

iTrader: (2)

So I recently bought some Kazama engine mounts. And I was wonder to install them, can I just unbolt the lower bolts from the engine mounts and jack up the engine by the oil pan with a block of wood and just switch them out?

Or I do actually have to drop the subframe.

oldManTan

i've read about this plenty of places, do some searches a lot of stuff should come up on this topic. i've read some people taking the sub frame out, some people work through the wheel well, lots of different options i think.

hmhatch

iTrader: (1)

You can loosen the mounts, jack up the engine on the side you are replacing and sneak the old mount out and get the new one in. I've only done it on a lift with pole jacks but I'm sure you can do it on the ground if you must.

1997Soarer

iTrader: (1)

^ That is what I did. Car on jackstands, loosened everything, then jacked up the engine a bit. Be careful not to crack your powersteering hose if its original.

AnonymousG

iTrader: (2)

So I changed the mounts out. It was super easy, I was just being lazy. It only took me an hour.

scENFORCER

^ How did you end up doing it? Just jacking it up a bit?

AnonymousG

iTrader: (2)

This is how I did it on my car.

Since my car already, has a stainless braided line for the power steering. I also removed my top radiator mounts and partially removed my radiator from the bottom mounts, mainly due to my upper radiator hose is short and when I was lifting engine I seen the hose starting to crease more then I feel comfortable with.

Jacked up the front and lput on jack stands
Loosened top bolts with a 17mm semi-deep 3/8 preferred, swivel, and about 2ft in extensions. (Loosened from the top.)
Removed the lower 19mm bolts
Using a piece of 2x4 pointed front to rear (do not point it side to side, will possible crush pan)
Jacked engine up about 4"
Removed passenger side mount and replace, installed the nuts just enough to stay on the mounts (make sure to align the nipples on the mounts)
For driverside, I had to lift it a bit more to get it out, since my mount was terrible shape, it was basically in two pieces. So I removed it in separate pieces, Which made removal easier especially due to the cramped space. Also installed bolts, barely threaded on.

Lower engine slowly, making sure threads go on the holes properly. Also to make sure the nipple is in the slot
Then from there just tighten it all up and you should be good.

Here's a pic of my old mounts vs new mounts.

20140513_120956 by AnonymousLG, on Flickr

scENFORCER

So hows the ride? Noticeably better? Smoother? Quieter?

AnonymousG

iTrader: (2)

We'll since I'm going from broken 200k oem mounts. To poly.. I would say there is hardly any delay now when I go open throttle, a prefect upgrade if all your bushing are poly. Due to my mounts some vibration goes into the cabin, I know what trims in my car are loose.

Bushings and mounts wise, the only ones not poly yet are my transmission (waiting to do my w58, mount will be same design as engine) , and my diff ears, which I plan to fill with window weld or replace with poly.