Luxor

iTrader: (15)

The flanges are way over priced, but I got mine for $28 from CX Racing. For the stud holes, you do not drill all the way, you drill in as far deep as the the threads go.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

I got a pretty nicely machined flange with -10AN on it from driftmotion I think. was like 30 bucks. I only drilled and tapped deep enough to screw the studs in, did not poke through. Two less holes to potentially leak.

mecheng10

another question.
what size tap would you use if you didn't use a flange?
lets just say you want your oil return line going right into the pan with a -10an to npt fitting
what size hole would you drill? (I think 7/8ths right?)
and then use what tap? 3/4 npt?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you will be hard pressed to fit a drill bit down there for a 3/4 tap unless its off the car, and if its off the car just go get a 1/2" or 3/4" bung welded on it. you most likely just need to do 1/2 npt as thats what most drain flanges have on them anyways, you know the one people bolt on.

there is not a lot of thickness to the center part that you drill out, so be carefull when tapping you will only get a few good threads but its enough to hold a fitting tight be sure to use thread sealant the liquid stuff in the white tube. it goes on all my oil fittings just spread it on the threads and tighten it in and allow to dry for 5-10 minutes and It will ensure you don't spring a leak. I think I have a 3/8 fitting on mine right now I didn't have the bit for the 1/2 at the time, something I plan to go back and fix and make it 1/2 npt.

for drill bit sizes just search google what size drill bit for 1/2 npt tap, thats what I do you will find lots of sites with charts.
I am seeing 23/32 or alternate bit is 3/4. only use the alternate if you can't get 23/32 as the first one is always closer.

mecheng10

what size studs were used?
m8 x1.25?
I called Toyota and they didn't have that part number

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yes m8x1.25 but be sure to tap it out with that same size. I think this is the size of the studs on the intake side of the JZ motor if you have extra laying around.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Ali, I have recently bought all the factory oil return hardware (studs, nuts, gasket, OEM return elbow). Should I just take them to a hardware store to verify the m8x1.25 tap sizing for the studs? I don't have a tap kit handy right now to measure.

I'm probably going to take my pan off to do this since I have to change my oil pump to a crank sensor version anyway.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I would get it welded if the pan is coming off, but the only sizes that toyota uses for studs is M8 and M10, so its got to be one of those. I would just get a m8 and m10 nut and see which one threads on to verify. the m10's will look like the exhaust stud sizes, the m8's are a little smaller usually on the intake.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

That makes it easier-- thanks Ali!

BoostedVic

isnt the oil level sensor on the other side of the block and at the same height. i was just going to use my oil pump have and be done vs drilling and tapping

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

It would work. The turbo drain can go anywhere in the pan, you just want it above the fluid height for the best drainage, which the level sensor is. Since you don't have a GS and may not be looking to wire in an oil low indicator light on your dash like the GS then in your situation it may not be as big of a deal obviously checking your oil levels often. The main problem it is if the oil pump dies or oil filter start leaking and you loose oil pressure you wouldn't know it until it's possibly way too late.

The other bad thing about using that is that it is on the opposite side of the motor. So you'd be running the oil drain around the motor, making it very long, near the fans and pullies, and possibly with a very weak slope. Poor oil drainage on a turbo can ruin a turbo/seals as the OP already delt with and cause turbo overheating as well.. The GS pan has a provision that isn't drilled, I would absolutely be using that instead, too bad you already put the motor in the car, because it would have been super easy to take the pan off with the motor on a stand to do it right.

megamax

iTrader: (9)

most of the time they are included in a turbo drain/return kit.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Great write up Luxor!!
I wasn't sure which size to use?
Thank you!!!
I did make my own flange using steel plate and -10 an bung here are a couple of shots to share with you guys
and a turbo drain too, but it's not finished yet for ideas

can you post a pic of the actual turbo oils drain flange that's on the top of the drain hose only if you can, I'm stuck on it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

some places sell a nice flange that has an o-ring on the back of it. sometimes that seals a little better than the gaskets. lots of ways to do it!!

phphung