flash92sc

iTrader: (20)

I am really getting frustrated with this situation and need some fresh insight , suggestions on what to do . I have a 92 SC 300 with a JDM 1JZ single turbo setup . The car ran great and I decided to add some mostly cosmetic mods to it for spring . This is what I added
All new FMIC and new intercooler piping and couplings
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto dual electric cooling fan
Driftmotion new power steering pump
Driftmotion polished aluminum pulley set with under drive pulley
Aluminum cam gears
New timing belt
New spark plugs
After all this stuff was put on I had a dead battery from sitting in the shop for several weeks
I charged it and while running it showed only 12.4 volts so I had the battery tested and they said it was bad ,3 month old optima yellow top ?
I replaced the battery and drove to car show at our church ,the car ran fine but It seemed like it was over boosting as I was blowing couplings . Still it ran good . When I went to leave it was dark I started up the car and as I was pulling away the lights got dim n the car died . Turned key nothing
I took the battery home n charged it ,brought back next morning put in car n stated right up ,I drove away n got on freeway the car ran good but then started buckling and cutting out like you turned the key off ? Then it would kick back in and run for a mile or two then repeat sporadic dying etc . This went on for about 5 miles n I tried to make it back to shop . It would die and restart n keep going but then it died and wouldn't restart anymore .
I checked the battery. Fine
I checked the alternator. Charging
I checked fuel. Getting plenty
I checked spark. Replced igniter replaced cam sensor and crank sensor
Checked coil packs. Removed intake and checked wiring I'm lost n frustrated n my car won't stay running for more than couple minutes then dies. PLEASE HELP !!!!!!!

mecheng10

ehhhh.... I don't think the alternator is charging you system.
while the car is running, you should see 13-14 volts at the battery.
If you see below that, that means your alternator is not working.

I would also check the afm/map sensor.
aftermarket or gte ecu?
have you checked the tps?

and if you are over boosting, have you checked your wastegate? Is it in working condition?

and don't tell me you remove the stock harmonic balancer for a solid pulley... youre asking to destroy your crank...

flash92sc

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for the response. I didn't know the driftmotion crank pulley was. Bad idea thanks for that info
GTE factory 1j ecu
Tps changed
Haven't checked waste gate but will
As of lat night. Car won't even start now. I'm going back to the drawing board n strt over. The alternator was only pulling the 12.4 volts so I changed it but I did have it checked n it checked out good

mecheng10

yea, if I remember correctly, that pulley removes the harmonic balancer, which absorbs vibrations to help protect the crank.

have you checked the capacitors in the ecu? They are known to go bad with time.

have you also checked the map sensor?

flash92sc

iTrader: (20)

I visually looked at the ECU. Didn't see anything bad but I heard that doesn't mean it can't be bad anyway
I'm trying to find another ECU so I can send mine to driftmotion to be reworked .
Haven't looked at map sensor

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Lights getting dim a d car dyig shortly aftr means only one thing: Charging issue. Don't worry about the other stuff. What does the current replacement alternator put out at idle? How are the fans wired? Are they always on?

flash92sc

iTrader: (20)

Car is back running. ECU was the culprit after all Thanks for everyone's input.

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Great Tom, glad you got her back running! Nice engine bay as well, are you going CARDS colors?

steve

nuturf87

Keep in mind that those old a** GTE ECU capacitors do go out and can be a headache. Good to hear your back on board

mecheng10

great work!
glad to hear its fixed!