scott101

Hello,
I have a couple of questions. Im using an is300 vvti bottom end for my 1.5jz build with a non-vvti 1jz head and will be putting this motor in my sc300. my two questions at the moment are:

1) will an sc300 rear sump oil pan swap right onto the block and work fine with dipstick, etc. (I know ill have to tap the pan for turbo oil return). I have to do this because the pan on it is front sump

2) what is the best place on the block to get oil feed for the turbo from. Ive heard of a sandwich plate from oil filter, a t fitting from the oil pressure switch. After looking at the block, I realized it might work well to use the existing oil line that feeds the vvti solenoid? Its already there and will no longer be serving any purpose. would this provide sufficient oil flow?

thanks for the help
-scott

scott101

I just put the motor together and after torquing everything to spec, the exhaust cams spins fairly easily (the way I would expect it to) but the intake cam seems like its stuck or something. It turns, but takes nearly twice the pressure (with a wrench) to move it. Ive tried unbolting it and bolting it back in again using the correct sequence but it didn't make an improvement. Is there some trick to the intake cam? Could it be that my head or cam is out of spec?
thanks
scott

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Yes, SC300 the oil pan will fit. You can tap an undrilled area for the OEM oil return.

A bigger issue is your choice of bottom end. Did you rebuild with OEM 2JZGTE rods and pistons or aftermarket rods and pistons? If not I STRONGLY recommend you do so or switch to a 2JZ-GE non-VVTi engine black before you complete your build any further. The VVT-i rods, pistons and rings are very thin and weak. They won't stand up to turbocharged duty for long. If you've already done a block rebuild then all is good.

If not, you may also have valve clearance issues with the older GE head and those very high compression pistons. The 2JZ-GE non-VVTi block is 10.0:1 and requires a thicker head gasket such as the OEM 2JZGTE gasket or an even thicker Cometic gasket but the rods and pistons are just as strong as those found in the 2JZGTE.

The 2JZ-GE, 2JZ-GE VVT-i and 2JZ-GTE (non and VVT) blocks themselves are identical and the same strong casting in all cases.

Please be careful before you go any further if's just a stock 2JZ-GE VVT-i block you are using.

scott101

Thanks for the info, Ya, Ive read a bit about the rods being weak. Im planning on changing them when I upgrade the cams and valve train and increase horsepower.
Im using an oem replacement 2jz-gte hg, which I believe should be thick enough to drop compression for the turbo setup. As for valve clearance im going to throw a belt on soon and spin the motor and make sure there is no issue. Assuming the pistons and valves clear, Id like to keep the higher comp pistons because Id like a motor with medium high compression. Not dropped too much from a thick headgasket but not full compression either

I now have the block assembled and I resolved the issue with the intake cam sticking.

Edit: come to think of it, I might just do the rods while I have the oil pan off anyways. seems logical