2jz Alternator upgrade
01-25-14, 08:32 PM
#16
The trick is output at idle - 2000 rpm. Most don't measure up. Above 2k sure but that's not where you need it. The quality aftermarket like mechman will but a lot of stock rewinds won't. The sequoia unit supposed to do over 100 amp at 800rpm.
07-10-14, 05:05 PM
#18
Driver School Candidate
I just got an aftermarket 160 amp alterntor off of that auction site everyone uses that starts with an e.
I had it benched and it was definitely producing what it was rated for and I ran a big 1/0 gauge wire (overkill I know) from the Alt to the battery to facilitate current flow. And it was less than $150 shipped to my door.
I think Biggu is selling a MechMan HO Alternator in the classifieds here and mechman always had a solid reputation on caraudio.com an realmofexcursion forums. So that's an option as well if you don't want to mod an alternator to fit.
I had it benched and it was definitely producing what it was rated for and I ran a big 1/0 gauge wire (overkill I know) from the Alt to the battery to facilitate current flow. And it was less than $150 shipped to my door.
I think Biggu is selling a MechMan HO Alternator in the classifieds here and mechman always had a solid reputation on caraudio.com an realmofexcursion forums. So that's an option as well if you don't want to mod an alternator to fit.
hes right i did the same, but i got a 250 AMP alternator and i works great. just buy it of an online auction and it should suffice!
ranging from 140$ - 325$
best of luck to you!
02-26-16, 04:27 AM
#22
Reposting this with revisions from a thread I just started before I realized this one already existed :P
I planned to upgrade from my stock 1993 80amp original alternator to a factory Supra TT Auto 100 amp by replacing the round harness plug with a newer over plug to fit.
However, I found the same thread on SF detailing the use of Sequoia and Tundra alternators caught my interest since they are not only higher output from the factory but put out most of their power at idle, whereas our original equipment alternators and the original Supra TT alternators need about 2k rpm to do so.
I'm not running a big stereo system so I probably don't NEED 130 or 150 amps but I'm still curious since this is newer tech.
What do you guys think these compared to upgraded/rewound SC300/400 alternators on the market?
Start on page three, after the $1500 1JZGTE JDM only 130amp alternator is discussed.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...130+alternator
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some notes I've compiled from the thread:
150amp option:
— 27060-0F050 — 2004-2007 Sequoia alternator 150 amp OEM
— 150amp Brown “PAL” fuse — swap into fuse box (90982-08272 but will it fit in stock location?)
— Remove 7mm material from top ear for clearance
^^ Some of the same modifications listed below this are also required
130amp option (probably better for most)
— 27060-0F040 — 2003-2008 Tundra 130 Amp alternator
— 140a PAL fuses on rockauto. The manufacturer is bussman and the part numbers are FLD140 or FLB140 (the difference is the size of the mounting holes)
— Tundra 4 pin plug - PN#90980-11964
— 2010 corolla six rib alternator decoupler pulley or gates OAD pulley
— The Lisle 57650 tool kit
— “Big 3” upgrade (figure out what this is exactly)
— Remove 7mm of material from top ear for clearance
— (yellow/green stripe) 1-->4, 2-->2, (beige)3-->1, plug up the third pin with an OEM plug or RTV silicone.
Commenters in the thread also are split on the subject or buying a reman version of ANY alternator vs finding an original junkyard alt and buying a rebuild kit from Toyota to replace the regulator, contacts, etc. Or one could be bought from Toyota.
Comments that stood out to me from the SF thread:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anthony.A: “Also there is a fuse issue if doing big threee fuse can be run in line between alt and battery but if using the stock wiring i have not found a fuse to replace the stock 120 amp with although several people are reporting leaving stock fuse in there with no problem.. I would like to change though since new alt is rated at a higher than blow rate for the current fuse.”
bitshftr: ”Keep in mind that amps are drawn, not pushed. So you only need to replace the stock 120amp fuse if you intend to draw more than 120amps. If you're getting the 130amp or 150amp alternator just so your idle amps/volts will be solid, or because you want/need more than the stock 90amps but less than 120amps, then you probably don't need to replace the 120amp fuse.”
kane93tt: “you don't crimp anything, the PAL fuse is bolted to the fuse box from behind the panel. You need to open the fuse box and remove the fuse layer (2 10mm nuts) and from under you see the bolts for the PAL main fuse”
Ryeno: “The only issue with the decoupler pulley is life. From what I hear it seems like most don't last past 50,000 km-75,000 km. Still, if it saves wear and tear from the belt tensioner that should be worth it.”
Anthony.A: “if anyone watched the links posted supporting the decoupler pulley would not be questioning if its worth it or not it obviously is. It saves wear on all other bearings, pulleys, and equipment. It is recommended to change with belt which are both recommended every 50k or 5 years. edit.. go back and watch the 2 videos demonstrating decoupler pulley. Would have saved us all these posts. Also I the decoupler pulley fails it will function like a normal pulley. I searched for failed pulleys and a pamphlet from gates mentioned it failing that way not failing and not powering car.”
93MSB: “I ordered one from eBay and it was putting out 16v at idle then died very shortly after. Rockauto offers $70 for a core charge on a denso reman so instead of messing with a used one again I almost got my money back from the core charge and now have a new quality reman. If I were to do it again I would probably have just ordered the reman to begin with.”
Ryeno: “I don't trust reman alts. I have seen far too many remans from mexico with standards bolt sizes instead of metric. Quality is so-so. If my alternator does break I plan to fix it myself. Usually it only requires swapping out the voltage regulator or rectifier, bushing or front bearing. BTW, these are 2UZ alts, and the UZ has a critical flaw where the PS pump will leak all over the alt. So stay away from any alt that looks dirty, greasy or high mileage.”
Tayousei: “If you are unfamiliar with pin numbers on OEM plugs, look REALLY closely and you'll see each wire is actually numbered on the plug housing. The numbers are tiny.”
Ryeno: “On our Vehicles (MKIV). S = White. IG = Yellow or Black-Yellow and L = Yellow-Green.”
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please note that the wiring notes listed here refer to MKIV SUPRAS and not SC's. I have not yet looked into whether or not the wiring codes they mention directly correspond to our harnesses.
Solid pulley vs OAD pulley demonstrations below.
I read into these and personally I am not sure I'd want to use one on my car. Most newer vehicles have them and a couple of the SF guys say they work for them without issue but they seem to have been designed in the R&D phase specifically for the vehicles they are intended for. Although in the videos below the warning is to not put a conventional solid pulley on an alternator originally intended for an OAD pulley. I have no idea if putting an OAD pulley on an older solid pulley alternator/vehicle has any potential caveat. Someone more learned than I will know the answer to that!
That's all I've got. I have not tried this myself yet. I'm posting all of this up for learning and discussion.
Additional thoughts, anyone?
I planned to upgrade from my stock 1993 80amp original alternator to a factory Supra TT Auto 100 amp by replacing the round harness plug with a newer over plug to fit.
However, I found the same thread on SF detailing the use of Sequoia and Tundra alternators caught my interest since they are not only higher output from the factory but put out most of their power at idle, whereas our original equipment alternators and the original Supra TT alternators need about 2k rpm to do so.
I'm not running a big stereo system so I probably don't NEED 130 or 150 amps but I'm still curious since this is newer tech.
What do you guys think these compared to upgraded/rewound SC300/400 alternators on the market?
Start on page three, after the $1500 1JZGTE JDM only 130amp alternator is discussed.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...130+alternator
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some notes I've compiled from the thread:
150amp option:
— 27060-0F050 — 2004-2007 Sequoia alternator 150 amp OEM
— 150amp Brown “PAL” fuse — swap into fuse box (90982-08272 but will it fit in stock location?)
— Remove 7mm material from top ear for clearance
^^ Some of the same modifications listed below this are also required
130amp option (probably better for most)
— 27060-0F040 — 2003-2008 Tundra 130 Amp alternator
— 140a PAL fuses on rockauto. The manufacturer is bussman and the part numbers are FLD140 or FLB140 (the difference is the size of the mounting holes)
— Tundra 4 pin plug - PN#90980-11964
— 2010 corolla six rib alternator decoupler pulley or gates OAD pulley
— The Lisle 57650 tool kit
— “Big 3” upgrade (figure out what this is exactly)
— Remove 7mm of material from top ear for clearance
— (yellow/green stripe) 1-->4, 2-->2, (beige)3-->1, plug up the third pin with an OEM plug or RTV silicone.
Commenters in the thread also are split on the subject or buying a reman version of ANY alternator vs finding an original junkyard alt and buying a rebuild kit from Toyota to replace the regulator, contacts, etc. Or one could be bought from Toyota.
Comments that stood out to me from the SF thread:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anthony.A: “Also there is a fuse issue if doing big threee fuse can be run in line between alt and battery but if using the stock wiring i have not found a fuse to replace the stock 120 amp with although several people are reporting leaving stock fuse in there with no problem.. I would like to change though since new alt is rated at a higher than blow rate for the current fuse.”
bitshftr: ”Keep in mind that amps are drawn, not pushed. So you only need to replace the stock 120amp fuse if you intend to draw more than 120amps. If you're getting the 130amp or 150amp alternator just so your idle amps/volts will be solid, or because you want/need more than the stock 90amps but less than 120amps, then you probably don't need to replace the 120amp fuse.”
kane93tt: “you don't crimp anything, the PAL fuse is bolted to the fuse box from behind the panel. You need to open the fuse box and remove the fuse layer (2 10mm nuts) and from under you see the bolts for the PAL main fuse”
Ryeno: “The only issue with the decoupler pulley is life. From what I hear it seems like most don't last past 50,000 km-75,000 km. Still, if it saves wear and tear from the belt tensioner that should be worth it.”
Anthony.A: “if anyone watched the links posted supporting the decoupler pulley would not be questioning if its worth it or not it obviously is. It saves wear on all other bearings, pulleys, and equipment. It is recommended to change with belt which are both recommended every 50k or 5 years. edit.. go back and watch the 2 videos demonstrating decoupler pulley. Would have saved us all these posts. Also I the decoupler pulley fails it will function like a normal pulley. I searched for failed pulleys and a pamphlet from gates mentioned it failing that way not failing and not powering car.”
93MSB: “I ordered one from eBay and it was putting out 16v at idle then died very shortly after. Rockauto offers $70 for a core charge on a denso reman so instead of messing with a used one again I almost got my money back from the core charge and now have a new quality reman. If I were to do it again I would probably have just ordered the reman to begin with.”
Ryeno: “I don't trust reman alts. I have seen far too many remans from mexico with standards bolt sizes instead of metric. Quality is so-so. If my alternator does break I plan to fix it myself. Usually it only requires swapping out the voltage regulator or rectifier, bushing or front bearing. BTW, these are 2UZ alts, and the UZ has a critical flaw where the PS pump will leak all over the alt. So stay away from any alt that looks dirty, greasy or high mileage.”
Tayousei: “If you are unfamiliar with pin numbers on OEM plugs, look REALLY closely and you'll see each wire is actually numbered on the plug housing. The numbers are tiny.”
Ryeno: “On our Vehicles (MKIV). S = White. IG = Yellow or Black-Yellow and L = Yellow-Green.”
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please note that the wiring notes listed here refer to MKIV SUPRAS and not SC's. I have not yet looked into whether or not the wiring codes they mention directly correspond to our harnesses.
Solid pulley vs OAD pulley demonstrations below.
I read into these and personally I am not sure I'd want to use one on my car. Most newer vehicles have them and a couple of the SF guys say they work for them without issue but they seem to have been designed in the R&D phase specifically for the vehicles they are intended for. Although in the videos below the warning is to not put a conventional solid pulley on an alternator originally intended for an OAD pulley. I have no idea if putting an OAD pulley on an older solid pulley alternator/vehicle has any potential caveat. Someone more learned than I will know the answer to that!
That's all I've got. I have not tried this myself yet. I'm posting all of this up for learning and discussion.
Additional thoughts, anyone?
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4rcedfed (01-08-21)
02-27-16, 10:25 PM
#23
if you need a good alternator upgrade its hard to beat the 2uz ones listed above, aftermarkets aren't a whole lot better but they cost a whole lot more. I prefer a good quality original than a rebuilt ones but if you get a good one either way is a good option. you can even get a new one from toyota for those models. they are much newer and fit on with the slight modification you listed.
02-27-16, 11:34 PM
#24
^^ Thanks Ali. I like the idea of using an a newer OEM design. Good to know you like these too. And that you agree that an original one in working shape is more preferable to a bought reman.
That's so strange to me though. Even the Tundra and Sequoia alternators bought from Toyota will be remanufactured and it's very hard to find an older alternator of this vintage that isn't a reman today. It's so common to encounter remans for any alternator today unless you have a very new vehicle but the lasting quality of the rebuild isn't always guaranteed.
That's so strange to me though. Even the Tundra and Sequoia alternators bought from Toyota will be remanufactured and it's very hard to find an older alternator of this vintage that isn't a reman today. It's so common to encounter remans for any alternator today unless you have a very new vehicle but the lasting quality of the rebuild isn't always guaranteed.
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