Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if you are going with really large injectors like 1000+cc injectors it will help your idle to go with the sequential and make things smoother, but power wise it should be mostly the same. you don't need it but if you wanted it you could add it.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I took a few pics last night its coming along, I will load them up when I get home today.

I will never solder engine wiring harness or anything in that matter..I bought some special crimps and the tool , it's very time consuming but its all worth it at the end.

I will post some pics , it definitely looks great I am happy with the outcome so far, and I am redoing the Boost solenoid connector and Traction control wiring using some deutch connectors

It is very time consuming for sure..and I am building 3 harnesses , 1 for me and 2 for my friends.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That is definitely the right way to do it with the proper pins and crimp tools. I have a weatherpack set but not the deutch connectors, those are nice connectors to use for sure.
Once you have it crimped on you can still put a drop of solder at the base of the pin to lock the wire to the pin, but its overkill, not everyone does it but I do it when I have extra time.

Z30muscle

iTrader: (1)

proefi 128 is on its way =D

Great job 99sc42
definitely interested in seeing some pictures of which actual I/O needed to get the car running.

will a open barrel molex crimper work for the pins?
2j pinouts sheet and adapting it for 1j pinouts with appropriate resistors be the ideal way to go?
shielded wire necessary for traction control?
ditching the 12v on relay for fuel pump circuit and terminating wire directly to ecu?
staged fuel pump setups wiring?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Are you auto or manual?

What is your setup?

I will help you with everything you need.

I will tell you what connectors to buy.

Z30muscle

iTrader: (1)

your the man 99sc42

its a 1j auto non vvti harness but going to be ar5 swap with southbend upgraded PP and custom SB 6 sprung puck when proefi 128 installed, 6262 turbo for now with plans on a bw s300sx-e waiting on release, fid 2000cc, bc 264, single intank pump with plans for dual staged.

the car is actually at my vacation home in FL, but have plans on relocating at the end of july than the build begins. just want to gather up all the information i can to make things smoother

definitely any info about install would be greatly appreciated

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Just an odd off topic (sort of) question for aftermarket ECU guys-

When developing an A/F/timing map, do you have to start from scratch? Or are there baseline maps to get started?

Also, I assume the OEM manufacturers test and tune at different altitudes and temperatures, so how do you program all these other variables in manually? Like, does the ECU have algorithms that calculate "tween" values or whatever (I'm not a math guy) for slight fluctuations in input values?

*Also, are OEM ECU's more "adaptable" inherently because the values are static and have already been tested? e.g., if you program your aftermarket ECU and do everything at sea level and 70 degree San Diego weather, then go to Boston in the winter, does an aftermarket ECU not know what to do with those values?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I got your email, I just been crazy busy working on stuff..

Harness is done and it looks great, I am very happy with the outcome, Everytime I do some wiring I get good at it etc..been doing my own wiring for sometimes..

I will post some pics in a few minutes..

I will reply to you email this weekend since ill be home .

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

majority of standalones come with a base map with basic parameters setup already, and you will need to tune the fuel maps and timing maps. they usually are sort of close on the timing maps with them usually set on the conservative side so it runs safe but you wont get the most power, but the fuel maps vary wildly from one setup to another and should be tuned right away often it can prevent the car from running or idling if this is out too much.

on a map sensor based ecu that uses an absolute pressure scale, altitide changes are inherently accounted for because as you increase in altitude the map sensor value lowers, taking away fuel and timing, and as you approach sea level your pressure will increase therefore increasing fuel and timing generally speaking.
also since they use a absolute scale 17 psi at sea level is actually more like 15 psi at my elevation, so if you set the ecu to hone in on 17 psi boost, you will be running 2 more psi in the mountains than at sea level, and this helps the car feel it has the same power at different altitudes.

the concept is that the engine always does the same thing for a particular load that is tuned, and it doesnt matter if you hit that load at 2000rpm's are sea level, or if you hit it at 4000 rpm's in the mountains.

that being said it will also come down to how aggressively its tuned for a particular load and the ability of the tuner. if your car was never tuned at elevation then you wouldn't have the values filled in for like -23 to-24 in/hg which you can easily pull in the mountains, but not at sea level.
So If the car is tuned properly for all load levels, it would work.

some standalones make it even easier by adding a second map sensor, they call it a barometric map sensor cause its not connected to the engine, all it does it measure outside air, so it takes the difference of the 2 to constanly adjust to altitude changes, this can be more accurate than the above case.

the stock ecu actually reads what the value is on the map sensor when you turn it on at 0 rpm's and compares it to the running values to see what elevation you started your car at. that way it does not need 2 map sensors. if you ever look at a piggyback like a map ecu, you wil notice all the cells for 0 rpms are the same value, this corresponds to what the map sensor reads with key in engine off, and if you change this value without changing enything else, it does affect the fueling which supports how incredibly smart the stock 2jzgte ecu is. you can drive up and down mountains all you want, same with a standalone that is set up properly but most of the time they aren't unless you ask for it.

If I missed something I am sure these guys would jump in and help me, but I would be surprised if the pro efi 128 did not have the second map sensor option that would take care of altitude changes without additional tuning. on the older stuff when you try and get away with using just 1, is where the tuning really comes into play and you can notice changes at different altitudes in how it runs.

on an aem ems v1, I had it tuned at sea level and the car would not start in colorado, till I shifted everything down manually by 2 psi, then it worked fine.