2jzge Na-t No Start Problem
01-02-14, 09:13 AM
#46
agreed, there are definitely many ways to set these cars up. found the thread with the dyno,
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...take-Manifold&
let us know how it goes OP, still waiting to see those new parameters.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...take-Manifold&
let us know how it goes OP, still waiting to see those new parameters.
01-02-14, 07:44 PM
#48
Well my phone was acting up so I was unable to get a vid. Had some help from my dad tonight. He recommended pulling the injector plugs to seebif certain cylinders arent firing. Come to find out cylinders 1, 2 and 3 are dead????? 4, 5, and 6 make a difference in idle when unplugged.
Last edited by 97NaSupra; 01-02-14 at 08:53 PM.
01-03-14, 10:35 AM
#51
If all injectors are plugged in it reads 10-11 which is rich, but if I unplug cylinder 4 or 5 it will stay around 12-13.5 and sound a bit better lol. I've changes the plugs, and they still dont even try to fire. I agree...... I think the spark and compression test is easy enough to do to just rule those out quickly. I didnt think this car would run on only 3 cylinders though. Unplugging cylinder 1-2 and 3 from the injectors made literally zero difference on how it idled.
Last edited by 97NaSupra; 01-03-14 at 11:14 AM.
01-03-14, 11:22 AM
#52
as in you have pulled the plugs and checked to see if they were sparking to the block or something and they werent firing at all.. or you mean it just isn't running on all 6. not running on all 6 can easily be due to overfuelling, but if its not sparking at all that would be a ignition problem, but since your car is starting you are getting stat sync (aem only starts if it gets stat sync from cam/crank sensors) and that means the distributor is mostly working and you are getting cam and crank signals.
your timing could also be off enough to drop some cylinders I have had that problem before.
Installing an ems has to be done in a certain order or you will just chase your tail.
step 1 is set up all sensors, make sure they are reading ranges that make sense.
1101 aem v1 na-t cal file has alot of problems, which are covered in here
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-settings.html
to fix the most important one go under advanced cam/crank sensors and change crank trigger to falling edge. uncheck rising edge.
(If you are using multiple coils on aem v1 you must also change the coil phasing #1 to 21.53 before you start it under ignition coil phasing menu. leaving 22 in there is fine with the stock 1 coil/distributor).
both of these changes throw the timing off and require you to use a timing light, but you always need a timing light with the aem ems not matter what anyone tells you.
step 2 is to get it started, and if it starts you immediately set the timing in the software, IMMEDIATELY.
you might not have a whole lot of time till is stalls but hopefully you should be able to see where it is ballpark before it dies you may need someone else to help start it while another person has the light on it.
If its way out of the ballpark adjust it and try again until you see the right range, if its off the marks you know timing is way off.
If you have done something else between starting it up and checking the timing you could just be wasting your time if the timing is off.
Step 3 is either to stabilize the idle via the idle map or stabilize the AFR's by adjusting the fuel map, whichever seems to be worse.
Step 4 is to do the other one.
Step 5 is to setup idle feedback, and to set up wideband o2 correction to +/- 10% under 1 psi.
Step 6 is to recheck the timing now that the motor is fully warmed up.
I also recommend using some Iridium plugs and they will be more resistant to fouling and last way longer. I have flooded them out many times and they clean right up on the next run. amazing plugs I tuned and ran on a set for years couldn't destroy them at all, still have them in there.
It is a base map it is designed to over fuel to be safe. if you do not remove the extra fuel, it can foul out the plugs every time you try it. that is why you need to look at the wideband and get the fuel in a normal range which is why I asked what the afr is. really at this point I am assuming the timing is correct, if you haven't checked it you need to. if you havent changed the crank sensor to falling edge you need to.
getting it started is half the battle so don't worry you are ahead of the curve. its not unusual for it to fall on its face after starting, even if you get all the steps right, but if you skip steps it really wont work no matter how much you change the plugs. If your wideband is saying 10.0 when it dies there is no question you have too much fuel.
your timing could also be off enough to drop some cylinders I have had that problem before.
Installing an ems has to be done in a certain order or you will just chase your tail.
step 1 is set up all sensors, make sure they are reading ranges that make sense.
1101 aem v1 na-t cal file has alot of problems, which are covered in here
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-settings.html
to fix the most important one go under advanced cam/crank sensors and change crank trigger to falling edge. uncheck rising edge.
(If you are using multiple coils on aem v1 you must also change the coil phasing #1 to 21.53 before you start it under ignition coil phasing menu. leaving 22 in there is fine with the stock 1 coil/distributor).
both of these changes throw the timing off and require you to use a timing light, but you always need a timing light with the aem ems not matter what anyone tells you.
step 2 is to get it started, and if it starts you immediately set the timing in the software, IMMEDIATELY.
you might not have a whole lot of time till is stalls but hopefully you should be able to see where it is ballpark before it dies you may need someone else to help start it while another person has the light on it.
If its way out of the ballpark adjust it and try again until you see the right range, if its off the marks you know timing is way off.
If you have done something else between starting it up and checking the timing you could just be wasting your time if the timing is off.
Step 3 is either to stabilize the idle via the idle map or stabilize the AFR's by adjusting the fuel map, whichever seems to be worse.
Step 4 is to do the other one.
Step 5 is to setup idle feedback, and to set up wideband o2 correction to +/- 10% under 1 psi.
Step 6 is to recheck the timing now that the motor is fully warmed up.
I also recommend using some Iridium plugs and they will be more resistant to fouling and last way longer. I have flooded them out many times and they clean right up on the next run. amazing plugs I tuned and ran on a set for years couldn't destroy them at all, still have them in there.
It is a base map it is designed to over fuel to be safe. if you do not remove the extra fuel, it can foul out the plugs every time you try it. that is why you need to look at the wideband and get the fuel in a normal range which is why I asked what the afr is. really at this point I am assuming the timing is correct, if you haven't checked it you need to. if you havent changed the crank sensor to falling edge you need to.
getting it started is half the battle so don't worry you are ahead of the curve. its not unusual for it to fall on its face after starting, even if you get all the steps right, but if you skip steps it really wont work no matter how much you change the plugs. If your wideband is saying 10.0 when it dies there is no question you have too much fuel.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-03-14 at 11:27 AM.
01-04-14, 05:21 PM
#54
Bad news all....... Checked compression tonight. Was only able to get to the front two and rear two cylinders with the upper intake on. Cylinders 1 & 2 had 0psi. Cylinders 5 & 6 had around 186psi..... So mad right now. Could this just be my new headgasket I installed? Or something else? I used a cometic 2jzgte headgasket. I read that some of them had rivets on them that may interfere with the head and block. Idk if thats my case or not. Pretty upset about it nontheless.
01-04-14, 11:47 PM
#55
Well went ahead and started tearing into the car. Pulled the exhaust manifold off and found what looks like a mix of gas and coolant resting in the wastegate inlet. Officially telling me the HG is the problem.
How the engine sits now.....
And the mess of parts in the garage.....
I know I need to buy a new head-gasket I'm probably going to get an oem toyota 2jzgte gasket this time. But will I have to get another set of arp head studs?
How the engine sits now.....
And the mess of parts in the garage.....
I know I need to buy a new head-gasket I'm probably going to get an oem toyota 2jzgte gasket this time. But will I have to get another set of arp head studs?
01-07-14, 07:45 AM
#57
thats unlucky, yeah you can re-use the arp studs but you may want to do a new gasket.
did you check the head before for flatness? you have to do it across from corner to corner look with a straight edge look for any dips in the middle or edges, usually the head warps first so it could need a shave, also check the block even though it usually doesn't warp as bad.
did you check the head before for flatness? you have to do it across from corner to corner look with a straight edge look for any dips in the middle or edges, usually the head warps first so it could need a shave, also check the block even though it usually doesn't warp as bad.
01-07-14, 09:38 AM
#58
Just ordered some more ARP fastener lubricant. Taking the head to the machine shop this week. Bad luck I guess, but if this fixes my problem atleast I know my way around the engine even better now. Really isnt too bad removing the head with the engine in the car. I have a bit of back pain now though lol. Sucks I just have to toss this cometic gasket away though. I heard you cant go wrong with the OEM gte gasket though.
01-07-14, 10:13 AM
#59
still shouldn't have been that bad with the cometic it looks like a MLS very similar to the factory one.
did you check the head for straightness on the last round?
make sure not to get oils on the headgasket on installation, the block head and gasket should be oil and smudge free.
did you check the head for straightness on the last round?
make sure not to get oils on the headgasket on installation, the block head and gasket should be oil and smudge free.
01-07-14, 10:56 AM
#60
still shouldn't have been that bad with the cometic it looks like a MLS very similar to the factory one.
did you check the head for straightness on the last round?
make sure not to get oils on the headgasket on installation, the block head and gasket should be oil and smudge free.
did you check the head for straightness on the last round?
make sure not to get oils on the headgasket on installation, the block head and gasket should be oil and smudge free.