driftersc3

Well I bought a sc300 for $500 that wouldn't start. I tore the head off and this is my findings... What would you guys do on a tight budget? Would you go 20over on the block? Do you think pistons are salvagable?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

did it crank at all before taking it apart? rear cylinders look pretty rough. looks bad enough to say a rebuild will be a very good idea. you could try and clean it up but its a gamble if you will get good compression or not. maybe get the surface rust off the walls and see what the condition is underneath, use some sort of lubricant and see if you can turn it over smoothly by hand or not. if its not turning over a rebuild or another block is probably in order.

driftersc3

I already plamned on rebuild. I figured if I kept the block, ill bore it out 20 over and use 20 over piston rings. I can try to salvage stock pistons and rods. I already have all parts for the head. Just need 3 angle valve job and some cleaning. I'm going to do all bearings, gaskets, arp bolts throughout, 1.3mm head gasket, and plan for boost when finished. Just trying to figure put what parts I need and id swapping would be cheaper.

driftersc3

It never cranked. I bought it seized

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

You won't be able to reuse the stock pistons if you bore it. They will rock and slap, the rings won't seal, and the engine will probably fail in very short order. The block looks pretty bad, so I doubt a hone will fix it, but if you do bore, know that you will have to put new pistons and rings in it. That gets expensive really quick, so sometimes if you are a gambler, you can pick up a used engine in much better shape, drop it in, and go. For what you have in the car, you could also just go junkyard and bottle hone it, buy new stock rings, clean the heck out of everything and roll with it. It just depends on what you expect out of the car as far as reliability and the ability to boost it down the road.

driftersc3

With that being said id need forged rods if im going to bore so id rather just get a 2jgte for the alittle more than rebuilding this engine lol. Im debating om 2jzgte or just getting another 2jzge. Depends on if.I can register the car from non op in California to operational registration in Texas.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Just for fun, post some more pictures of the car.. If it were me, I'd just repair and build the block you have, then boost. It'll cost less then getting a stock GTE ordered and installed, plus you'd have power potential for days with new internals. There are no benefits to getting a GTE if you compare a rebuilt GE block with internals to it.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, the California thing makes it even tougher. Even if you rebuild the ge it better be right and tight, or it will fail emissions. If you can swing some kind of out of state registration, I would go for it for sure. Good luck with it!

driftersc3

What would you have to get to repair it? What exact parts? Forged oversized pistons, rods, bearing, gaskets, rebuilt head, ect... If it's more cost efficient ill do it. I need it to be reliable though. I am going to drift the car. Also I will be going ffim, cops, and turbo. With all that in consideration would a 2jzgte not be more cost efficient? Im only going to want 600whp max. And thats after years of having it boosted. I only want enough to slide and practice intially which 350-400 should be perfect for.

driftersc3

Heres more pictures

mattjk

iTrader: (1)

I might be selling my refreshed engine. It has all new gaskets, oil and water pump, new timing belt and tensioner, Twin turbo metal head gasket. ALL OEM parts. Also ARP Head Studs. Let me know if you are interested as I will probably be doing a 2jzgte vvti swap.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Well lets get down to some details. Are you going to be doing the engine work yourself or paying a 3rd party to build/swap a motor? Lets assume you do all the work yourself, up to the numbers you're hoping for of around 600 max..

To get anything over 375hp your going to buy FMIC, injectors, exhaust, fuel pump, single turbo w/lines and will want to replace the water pump, oil pump, all essential gaskets, fluids, belts etc; no matter which route you go these will all be required so lets skip them for the sake of straight comparison.

A trusted website I have used for 2 motors in the past quotes a GTE motor with ECU and harness shipped to Cali for $2560, or for fun, a 1J for $1660.
http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/toyota-lexus.html

If you build the GE motor you DONT need rods, they're factory forged, same part # from the GTE. Although, if you must, then a kit from Wiseco or CP with pistons, rods and rings is about $1250 shipped all day, less if you skip rods. There are a ton of little things that will nickel and dime you whether you go 1J, GTE or GE. I'm being super vague and with numerous asterisks but you get the idea..

driftersc3

I plan to do all the work myself. The only thing I'm not going to do myself is bore out the block and do the valve job. I see your point. I didn't mean forged rods though. I'm assuming the worst. The cylinder walls are rusted so I can only imagine how the bottom end looks. I haven't cracked it open to kook at it, but I'm sure the crank and rods won't be in the best of shape either.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

That's a tough call. If emissions compliance can be fudged, I would be very tempted to do a 1jz/r154 swap. You will still have to do a single kit and fuel to reach 600hp as noted above, but you could drop it in stock and go drift until you save enough for that. You will have AT LEAST 3k in rebuilding the stock ge, and probably more if you have to do much machining on the bottom end. A quality, stock head rebuild can run 1k alone. Then, you have a stock ge and what appears to be a stock auto, neither of which are very conducive to drifting.

driftersc3

The only problem with 1j is lack of torque abd boost lag which is no good for drifting either. Augh decisions!!!