Crank, no start, code 12
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Crank, no start, code 12
I'm trying to figure out why my 95 sc300 won't start. It's getting a code 12 when I check the engine light. I've replaced the distributor and the ECU which didn't help. What steps should I take next?
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The distributor has been replaced already with a known good unit. It didn't solve the issue.
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#11
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Yeah it really hurts when someone shows up to buy it, fixes it on your street in a few hours, and drives off with a million dollar smile on their face
so I double checked the manual for a 95 2jzge and it says G or NE signal, all of which come from your distributor.
This should be an easy one to find, surprised the dealer couldn't fix it. has to be dizzy or the wiring to it. check the connector. take off the valve cover plastic piece and look for pinched wiring, anything out of place all the way to the ecu.
Did they replace it with a used distributor, if so try another one.
The force is telling me you may have a cracked connector from the exhaust heat and the pin maybe backs out when they push it in or doesn't make a solid connection. other possible issues are a battery that has damaged cells and is not providing enough cranking amps/voltage for a clean signal on cranking. don't give up its not that bad. for the battery you can just try jumping off another car. good luck and post back with more info.
so I double checked the manual for a 95 2jzge and it says G or NE signal, all of which come from your distributor.
This should be an easy one to find, surprised the dealer couldn't fix it. has to be dizzy or the wiring to it. check the connector. take off the valve cover plastic piece and look for pinched wiring, anything out of place all the way to the ecu.
Did they replace it with a used distributor, if so try another one.
The force is telling me you may have a cracked connector from the exhaust heat and the pin maybe backs out when they push it in or doesn't make a solid connection. other possible issues are a battery that has damaged cells and is not providing enough cranking amps/voltage for a clean signal on cranking. don't give up its not that bad. for the battery you can just try jumping off another car. good luck and post back with more info.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-18-13 at 02:25 PM.
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I've tried 3 distributors and replaced the ECU, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, throttle body, injectors, FPR. I've checked the wiring and I've replace everything that was remotely old or scary looking. The battery is new and sits on a charger so I know it has plenty of cranking amps. The car will crank but all it does is use fuel.
I've decided after owning it for several months and only being able to drive it twice due to the multiple issues that I've had to fix that it's just not the car for me.
I've decided after owning it for several months and only being able to drive it twice due to the multiple issues that I've had to fix that it's just not the car for me.
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Not sure if this will help but after washing one of my cars last week, my sc didn't want to cold start the very next day. Cranks but not start. Multi meter checked battery and it was OK at 12.5 then decided to change both post terminals and cut off half inch cable wires due to corrosion inside the terminal. Attached jump cables for more crank power and waited 10 minutes then Bam! She started and problem fixed.
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