OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys, haven't been active for a few months. I'm getting ready to tackle a clutch job and I need help. This is my first time to do this in a long time without any help. I need some guidance on which parts need to be replaced while I'm at it. And if anyone has tried the parts that I'm gonna use, a good feedback would be a great info. This is gonna be for a 1996 OG 5 speed. Stock engine, but I'm looking for a little aggressive drive feel for daily use. Here are the parts that I've listed to be replaced so far;

engine rear main seal
shift lever bushing
pressure plate bolts
ARP Toyota 4AG M10 flywheel bolts
ACT TS3-HDG6 HD/Race Sprung 6 Pad Clutch Kit
SPEC Aluminum Flywheel
Redline Transmission Oil

That's about it for now, anything else I might as well replace while I'm at it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

jjffyy

iTrader: (9)

May want to check your drive shaft output seal just in for leakage and maybe a pilot bearing.

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the tip, just what I needed. The ACT Clutch Kit comes with everything already. Pilot bearing, throwout bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc and alignment tool. Any feedback about the kit I'm choosing to go with? Is it gonna be too aggressive and uncomfortable for daily driving? Is it gonna be worth the stiffness of pedal feel for fun to drive experience? 'Cause that's what most people say in the reviews...

Sc375

i had the ACT HD PP it wasnt tooooo bad on the leg just takes alil time to get used to

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I did mine last weekend. It took about 9 hours in total (with grandpa helping) with breaks and not having done it before on this car.

You'll need some very long extensions, maybe easier with 3/8 drive for tight spots, but should use 1/2 drive for the bigger bolts. Get a torque wrench for flywheel/plate bolts. Make sure the alignment tool is exactly centered. The top bolts on the tranny housing are very very very very hard to get back in because of the angles. Make sure they're in before the driveshaft and mounts go back in and don't do it without daylight and extra flash light etc.

Job would have been 10x easier with a transmission jack. We used 3 small pump jacks to get it back up and it was very wobbly. Have someone help you, really.

Unless you are replacing seals and stuff at the differential connector, just disconnect the center driveshaft piece with the 4 bolts, much easier than removing exhaust.

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Thanks ISFFUN for the tips. I saw 2 threads detailing the process;

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...stall-diy.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...56k-no-no.html

I was wondering if it would be a different process for a 96? I'm pretty sure it would be the same, just wanna make sure if there's any surprises I should look forward too?

Also, can someone give me the part number for the drive shaft output seal for a 96 W58, I can't find it at Sewell Lexus website? I also see that the 92-94 W58's have 2 bushings for the shift lever, I can't find any info for 95-97 W58, but I was able to find one bushing that go directly to the lever, not the one that rests on the goose neck or something.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Don't buy that clutch! Go with a street disk if you are stock or near stock. If by "fun" you mean annoying chatter, increased wear and tear on your engine, tranny, joints and leg, then by all means go ahead. If I were you, I would buy a stock replacement clutch and continue to enjoy driving the car. Tailoring your driving technique around a racing style clutch sucks!

JesLet

iTrader: (19)

Output seal 90311-38032

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Just wanna make sure you are suggesting this coming from experience right? Here's the thing, the car have stock clutch right now, previous owner said he got it replaced about 2 years ago, but the clutch feels really weird shifting. Clutch is very deep at first gear, like you have to step at the pedal all the way to the floor to get 1st gear in, then it jerks a lot at first gear. It releases very very rough at any gear, it's almost like an on/off switch for the clutch engagement/disengagement. My dad says it might be the pressure plate. I want it to be comfortable enough to drive everyday, but want an extra umpf if possible? you know what I mean jelly bean?

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Golly, I have no idea how I missed that. Thanks JesLet!

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Lol! Yeah, I know what you mean. I do speak from experience, and if Ali sees this thread, he will probably back me up here.

Puck clutches are good for one thing, and that is bite. They are also notorious for chatter, little to no modulation(the on/off switch thing you mentioned), and killing transmissions through driveline shock. Unless you make a decent amount of power and need a cheap way to put it to the ground, I would never recommend a puck clutch.

Get a single step above stock exedy or similar oem style clutch. Or, talk to southbend and have them spec you a clutch that will drive like stock and still hold power. Whatever you do, don't get a puck clutch. Stick with a full face street disk and you will be much happier.

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Great info man! Now, will I still benefit from doing lightweight flywheel or might as well stick to OE?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I would stick with the oe flywheel.

JesLet

iTrader: (19)

+1, never heard any good reviews about the ligtweight flywheel.

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

I'm looking up Exedy right now, seems like they only have 1 clutch kit for the SC. I'll look up reviews in a bit. Any other good choices for me for clutch kits? Seems to be cheaper than going OEM, unless they are all not gonna deliver OE quality or better.

On another note, what is the normal idle the 2JZGE is supposed to have? My SC400 idles at 400rpm with the A/C turned off and around 600-800 with the A/C on. But the SC300 seem to idle very high at 1000-1200 with the A/C turned on.